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Everything posted by zbloke
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Will you have to fit a pre and post butterfly pressure sensor on every runner, so 12 sensors in total, or on just one? so only 2 sensors?
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Take a look here: -
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Looks very nice! What's that bracket/adjuster attachment next to the oil pump for?
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There is some information you should find helpful in this thread:-
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I appreciate that the following isn't the Apex Track Attack system but a fellow Hybridz member built, installed and ran a pushrod/rocker/inboard damper rear suspension on his car some time ago, I don't know if he is still active on here but a search of his past posts might give you some insight into how he fared with his system https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/91914-rocker-arm-rear-suspension/
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A fine choice if I may say so, you won't be disappointed! I've run one in my Z for a number of years, road use and on track too - can't fault it The OS diff oil is expensive and with the current USD > GBP exchange rate I pay about the same as you have for two litres
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Coilovers and struts. $1,000 budget
zbloke replied to AydinZ71's topic in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
I use the 8610-1437's in my car - perfect in my opinion If you haven't already checked out the FAQ section here I recommend you do so, there is a lot of great info in there relating to strut insert installation, getting your desired ride height and sufficient damper travel in both compression and extension -
If you go to this website:- https://www.oer-carburetor.site/ And send them an e-mail asking the question they'll reply and send you a picture, with dimensions, of the type of injector you need I have a reply from them somewhere in my inbox with the above information but can't seem to find it.......
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set up wheels ( for track or general...)
zbloke replied to nzarano's topic in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
Wheels for setting up your car 😉 The items pictured are more like hub stands as they don't resemble wheels It goes something like this - jack car up - wheel off's - bolt hub stand's to hub's in place of wheel's - lower onto corner weight scales/set up patch - give it a good shake to settle the suspension - adjust away to your hearts desire, without having to fight your way around the wheel that's normally in your way -
Do the couple of lobes that have lost material look like they've been overheated? if they do are the oil ways partially blocked or could the original hardening depth be thin where the cam was re-profiled?
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I might be massively wide of the mark here but, the bit I've highlighted in red combined with the issue you're having would lead me to believe the engine had this bolt coming loose problem before coming into your possession or if the head had recently been worked whoever had done it had overlooked something, the result being the bolt coming loose
- 13 replies
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- timing bolt
- cam bolt
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If the threads in the end of the cam are trashed I personally wouldn't want to reuse it or even attempt to Helicoil it either Same for the bolt, if its threads are anything like the threads in the end of the cam again I personally wouldn't reuse As for an underlying issue causing the problem, do you know any history of the engine prior to the bolt coming loose? was it a running engine when it came to you? have you completely rebuilt it or part rebuilt it? left it untouched and just got it running?
- 13 replies
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- timing bolt
- cam bolt
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Can you check to see if the bolt is bottoming out in the camshaft before its actually pulling up against the cam sprocket?
- 13 replies
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- timing bolt
- cam bolt
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An alternative to a ZXT distributor is this twin Hall sensor distributor from EFI Hardware https://www.efihardware.com/products/1752/distributor-full-sequential-for-Nissan-L-series-6-cyl
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Even though they are called "cooling bodies" you don't actually run coolant as in engine coolant through them Your supposed to route your fuel return line through them but in practice I don't think I've ever seen anyone run with them hooked up My advice for what its worth:- Run without them hooked up to your fuel return line and if the car performs to an acceptable standard call it good and move on to something else
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I used to have a pair of Corbeau GT8 Highbacks in my 240Z, they fit well, look period and are very comfortable I modified the mounting points in the floor pan to get the seats lower in the car and to make the base more horizontal as initially it felt a bit like I was being tipped backwards Only moved them on when I got a very good deal on a pair of Recaro Profi SPG's
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KEW offer some listed as NISMO http://www.kameariengineworks.co.jp/Catalogue-v3/catalogue-009-L.pdf & http://www.kameariengineworks.co.jp/Catalogue-v3/catalogue-010-L.pdf
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Front Wheel Bearing Spacer
zbloke replied to 260DET's topic in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
If you really want to push the boat out on wheel bearing grease you could try some Kluber Isoflex Topas NB 152 This was recommended to me by the UK Kluber technical department as it has a slightly higher temperature rating that the NB 52 sold by DRP Its not cheap though but I found a place that would sell me one 400g tube I'll report back on it when I get my ass in gear and replace my front wheel bearings, fit the bearing spacers and low drag seals -
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Have you tried your nearest Nissan dealer? Pretty sure the part no. is 11024K0100
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No direct experience of those but I did have a pair of Corbeau GT8's in my Z for a long time, they're a similar shape and size to the Classic and are very comfortable, only swapped them out when I got my hands on a pair of Recaro Profi SPG's
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Its a nice way to accurately set your fuel level, tried and tested too......Rolls Royce Motor Cars where using the same method to set the fuel level in their float chambers about a hundred years ago
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I use a Facet Red Top to feed my triple Mikunis, specs are 6.0>8.0 Psi and 45 US Gallons an hour For many years I ran it deadhead through a Filter King regulator and it ran ok, the fuel pressure used to fluctuate at idle but I put that down to the pulsing of the pump against the deadhead, I kept reading that a bypass system was better though......so......middle of last year I fitted a Fuelab 515 series bypass regulator, and it still runs ok but I have a nice stable 3.5 Psi at idle now, all fuel pipes, feed and return, are 5/16" id Even did a couple of hill climbs last year and it pulled up them just fine