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About zbloke

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    Junior Member

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    United Kingdom
  1. An alternative to a ZXT distributor is this twin Hall sensor distributor from EFI Hardware https://www.efihardware.com/products/1752/distributor-full-sequential-for-Nissan-L-series-6-cyl
  2. Even though they are called "cooling bodies" you don't actually run coolant as in engine coolant through them Your supposed to route your fuel return line through them but in practice I don't think I've ever seen anyone run with them hooked up My advice for what its worth:- Run without them hooked up to your fuel return line and if the car performs to an acceptable standard call it good and move on to something else
  3. I used to have a pair of Corbeau GT8 Highbacks in my 240Z, they fit well, look period and are very comfortable I modified the mounting points in the floor pan to get the seats lower in the car and to make the base more horizontal as initially it felt a bit like I was being tipped backwards Only moved them on when I got a very good deal on a pair of Recaro Profi SPG's
  4. KEW offer some listed as NISMO http://www.kameariengineworks.co.jp/Catalogue-v3/catalogue-009-L.pdf & http://www.kameariengineworks.co.jp/Catalogue-v3/catalogue-010-L.pdf
  5. If you really want to push the boat out on wheel bearing grease you could try some Kluber Isoflex Topas NB 152 This was recommended to me by the UK Kluber technical department as it has a slightly higher temperature rating that the NB 52 sold by DRP Its not cheap though but I found a place that would sell me one 400g tube I'll report back on it when I get my ass in gear and replace my front wheel bearings, fit the bearing spacers and low drag seals
  6. zbloke

    Engine 001

    Thanks Do you have one of the Nismo oil pump covers with the external ports too? Or have you found a way to add ports to a standard cover?
  7. zbloke

    Engine 001

    Hello, What's the blue fitting in the side of the block for? Regards Tim
  8. Have you tried your nearest Nissan dealer? Pretty sure the part no. is 11024K0100
  9. No direct experience of those but I did have a pair of Corbeau GT8's in my Z for a long time, they're a similar shape and size to the Classic and are very comfortable, only swapped them out when I got my hands on a pair of Recaro Profi SPG's
  10. Its a nice way to accurately set your fuel level, tried and tested too......Rolls Royce Motor Cars where using the same method to set the fuel level in their float chambers about a hundred years ago
  11. I use a Facet Red Top to feed my triple Mikunis, specs are 6.0>8.0 Psi and 45 US Gallons an hour For many years I ran it deadhead through a Filter King regulator and it ran ok, the fuel pressure used to fluctuate at idle but I put that down to the pulsing of the pump against the deadhead, I kept reading that a bypass system was better though......so......middle of last year I fitted a Fuelab 515 series bypass regulator, and it still runs ok but I have a nice stable 3.5 Psi at idle now, all fuel pipes, feed and return, are 5/16" id Even did a couple of hill climbs last year and it pulled up them just fine
  12. I used a bottoming tap when I installed ARP head studs on my current engine, even with this cutting another couple of threads right at the bottom of the hole the studs still had approx one thread showing above the deck of the block when installed Use a bottoming tap, wind em in hand tight as far as they'll go and your good
  13. When I had the same issue I took the OEM bolts to a machinist and had him reduce the thickness of the bolt head to increase the underhead length by the thickness of the two washers I wanted to fit
  14. Isn't there some information in the Honsowetz book regarding amounts of pre-bending before welding the head?
  15. If the OEM style inner tie rods should become unobtainable then Nagisa Auto offer a solution that also does away with the OEM outer track rod end and replaces it with a bolt in stud/rod end bearing attachment at the steering knuckle
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