mr_han_solo Posted May 17, 2016 Share Posted May 17, 2016 (edited) Overview: I was inspired to make my own body pan after seeing a combination body pan/splitter on the "Datsun Parts and Needs" Facebook page. I like the stock look so I wasn't interested in the splitter part. Due to this my body pan is plastic instead of the aluminum. Looking back I could have probably got away with aluminum due to the fact that the body mounting as a lot more level than I expected. Note this was used with a MSA Type 1 style Air Dam. Front measurements my vary depending on what other air dams you use. Parts List and Prices: Polyethelylene Plastic Sheet (Black) .080 48"x60" - Online Metal Supply - $25 AAF-ALL18548-10 Threaded Nut Insert (Needed to Mount to Bumper) - Summit Racing - $21.99 1/2" Steel Conduit (Needed to make spacers) Belmetric.com: 4x WSI10SS Internal Star Washer 6x WFE10X30SS Fender Washer SS 2x M10 Bolts and Fender Washers (Not Stainless) McMaster-Carr: 2x 25mm M10 Stainless Bolt 2x 70MM M10 Stainless Bolt 10x 18-8 Stainless Steel Button-Head Socket Cap Bolts, 1/4"-20, 5/8" Long The Process: My First step was to cut the conduit to the the length needed to make it level with the bottom of the air dam and the cross-member. Once it's cut, weld it up to the end of the front frame rails. Now sure what originally went in these holes but they are perfect. Then I took the two non-stainless washers and nuts and welded them into the round holes in the cross-member (There are four holes in the bottom of the cross-member, the nuts are welded onto the outermost holes on each side). I now had 4-points to mount my belly-pan. Now I had to make a cardboard template and cut it to make sure everything lined up. I used a awl to find my two mounting holes on my cross-member, and the two mounting holes where the spacers are now at. I also had to place a hold where my radiator drain is at. (Here is my template with the dimensions). Next I transferred this onto the plastic and cut it out: Note that I did not cut the entire wheel well area out. I left the "flaps" because I read that rolling the belly pan itself up into the wheel well would help with aero. Unfortunately, I didn't read or account for this before I marked out out and took the measurements on my template. I have added this photo showing that it is possible given the improved measurements. I don't know if this would be possible if you choose to use aluminum. After I have the initial part cut I did a quick fitment test: (Notice that I cut part of it too narrow around the front a-arms. I welded some more back on at a later point.) Next, I removed the bumper and slid the body pan up into the position where it would sit inside the lip of the bumper itself. I then took a drill and drilled the 1/4" holes necessary to put the thread inserts in. The thread insert flanges need to be trimmed down due to how shallow the bumper lip is: Inserts Installed and Body Pan mounted. Just waiting on front bumper: Don't really have a good photo of the finished product. If I ever get the car on the lift I will add a photo. It pretty much looks just like the mock-up photo above except with button cap screws on the bumper. Hope everyone enjoys, and feel free to ask any and all questions. Edited May 17, 2016 by mr_han_solo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LLave Posted May 18, 2016 Share Posted May 18, 2016 How rigid is the material once installed? I imagine it it subject to a sizable force at speed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted June 1, 2016 Share Posted June 1, 2016 (edited) Here's mine. Fiberglass over foam sheeting from Lowe's. Edited June 1, 2016 by RebekahsZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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