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Everything posted by LLave

  1. Nice, that is the first I have seen this transmission. Keep us posted.
  2. Looks great. I very accessible too.
  3. That little swoop from the main rails to the rears, yeah I am stealing that. When my car goes back on the rotisserie I am going to add that.
  4. LLave

    My 240 rb26 build

    Holy hell... What a gear box.
  5. I think that is going to work out great. Quick google-foo shows me that Radium has an FPR housing built around that same regulator style. Makes for nice way to land AN fittings on that regulator. Is that what you are using? http://www.radiumauto.com/Fuel-Pressure-Regulator-P229.aspx I am considering ditching my Aeromotive regulator, seems like lots of people have problems with them.
  6. You're wrong! Noobie! Classic. Usually coming from people who have not built anything. I always enjoy the discussion on HybridZ. Another route to consider is OEM modules. I got the chance to speak with Rick's Tanks for a while at SEMA a couple years ago. They are big on using the ZL1/CTSV modules. They have an awful lot of good tech built right into them. Swirl jets to increase pickup, a reservoir to protect against starvation, a fuel pressure regulator, level sensor, they support big power and you can get a replacement at a dealer. They also have after market setups that can support 2000hp, should you decide your destiny is to go out in a blaze of glory. I am not sure what your exact tank configuration is but, they have a weld in option and a bolt in. Might be worth talking to them. https://rickstanks.com/product/weld-in/ Also, Vapor Works utilizes these modules with high tech PWM controllers. Speed control for your fuel pump. They utilize a fuel pressure sensor down stream and control pump flow. https://www.vaporworx.com/documentation/fuel-modules/ https://www.vaporworx.com/documentation/how-do-pwm-returnless-fuel-systems-work/ Big power module https://www.deatschwerks.com/5th-gen-camaro-dw400-pump-module Regarding your plumbing, I don't think you will have any issue plumbing it up with hose. Any of the good quality fuel injection tubing will be fine. Heck they plumb new cars up with that nylon stuff and they are fine. The trick is going to be routing your lines away from heat and moving parts. 10 pounds... 5 pound bag.
  7. You might want to reference the instructions for whatever FPR you are using. I know aeormotive recommends that the FPR go on the return http://aeromotiveinc.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/131-0109-0revH.pdf I was going to run a returnless Corvette fitler/regulator combo, but after thinking it over, I decided to run dedicated feed and return hard lines all the way. This seems the be the most robust in terms of being scale-able to future horsepower growth.
  8. Interesting, your shifter seems quite a bit further forward than mine. Are you using a TR6060? I am using a F-Body T56 which I believe has a longer tail section. You can convert tail housings, but the you linked is likely more cost effective. I have not personally used the sikky shifter, but they make nice parts and it looks really solid.
  9. Looking good. It is amazing how quickly you run out of space. 10 pounds of shit in a 5 pound bag, that is what I say about my car. Especially in the interior, where I make up much of that 10 pounds...
  10. I have never seen a SBC crack a valve cover. Interesting. +1 for Summit Racing tech. Hit them up. Speedway motors too!
  11. That is the line of thinking that made me end up getting JTR shorties. I didn't place my motor in a "standard" location and I wanted to use a Sander/Vintage air AC compressor. Hawks are a significant cost, but if I knew they would fit and be done, I would spend the money. They should have a beat up set in mild steel or something that they ship to people for mock-up. Test headers. Building a set is tempting. Something super custom and self made is always gratifying. Check out Cone Engineering for collectors. https://www.coneeng.com/exhaust_system_kits.html and Columbia River has good pricing on mandrel bends http://www.mandrelbends.com/mandrel-bends.html Also Speedway Motors has builder kits that might be a good starting point. You can fab it out of mild steel and send it over to Jet-Hot for coating. https://www.speedwaymotors.com/shop/speedway-exhaust-header-pipe-kits~8207-10191-4529-11-524-31037 Ultimately I just opted to get the off the self JTR/Sandersons and move on. They are not my favorite design, but I am certain the will get the job done. https://jagsthatrun.com/products/headers-for-datsun-z-ls1-v8?variant=7943951777835
  12. Nice! That is a big step. My feelings on manifolds were similar to yours. The power gain is not really a factor, OEMs are nicely designed and if they fit, run em. I went with the JTR/Sandersons they are ok. Easy close fit to the block, which leaves plenty of room. The are off the shelf, which saves time and expense. In hindsight I sort of wish I had either went with Hawks long tubes, or made my own. Honestly, mostly because long tubes look cool. The turbo guys weld V-band flanges to OEM manifolds all the time. Might be worth considering. I am sure whatever you come up with will be bad ass.
  13. Agreed, you can move that sheet metal under the battery "down" a long way. Are you going to stick with the exhaust manifolds?
  14. Awesome work! Who the heck uses 12-24?
  15. How do you plan to fill the gap between the inner and outer panel? When I did my flares, I left the inside long and folded it over, welding it to the outside. Are you going to make a filler?
  16. LLave

    JTR SBC Kit Positioning Help

    I did not use these and my shaft cleared with minor trimming. I may have a photo somewhere.
  17. LLave

    Rota RB/RB-R, 4x114.3, 17", Z-Offset Wheels

    Matt is the man. I got a few parts from him and intend on having him put together a set of wheels for me.
  18. LLave

    Hood bonding problem

    Cool color. How about flex additive like they use for modern bumpers?
  19. LLave

    72 Kgc10 GTX build tread

    What an amazing car! Great work.
  20. Great work! I am well versed in just how tight of a fit that is for the compressor. You got that tucked way in there.
  21. LLave

    Broken 4340 Stub Axle threads

    Good point. I just looked, the contact information is right on their website: http://www.chequeredflagracing.net/HOME.html Joseph Siam <jsiam1@earthlink.net> Chequered Flag Racing .net Joseph P. Siam 9833 Deering Ave unit I Chatsworth Ca 91311 818 350 6222
  22. LLave

    Broken 4340 Stub Axle threads

    I think we should all hold from speculating until the vendor has had a chance to respond. I will PM you the contact information I have for Joe at Chequered Flag.
  23. Chunky! That's awesome. I may have to hit up Jongbloed for a set of wheels.
  24. Looks fantastic. What size tires did you go with?