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Everything posted by mr_han_solo

  1. Overview: I was inspired to make my own body pan after seeing a combination body pan/splitter on the "Datsun Parts and Needs" Facebook page. I like the stock look so I wasn't interested in the splitter part. Due to this my body pan is plastic instead of the aluminum. Looking back I could have probably got away with aluminum due to the fact that the body mounting as a lot more level than I expected. Note this was used with a MSA Type 1 style Air Dam. Front measurements my vary depending on what other air dams you use. Parts List and Prices: Polyethelylene Plastic Sheet (Black) .
  2. Late last year I picked up a used louver for...FREE. I wasn't happy with the paint, or the condition of the weatherstripping so I set out searching if anyone had reconditioned the louver before. I found a few dead end threads, but all in all I got the general idea and set out to do it myself. *Disclaimer* After getting started with the process I realized that a how-to was not really necessary as it's pretty much a straightforward process. However, I took pictures anyways, and I have some free time so I decided to write this up and post. *Disclaimer #2* This is for the stock style m
  3. I recently purchased a set of Hoosier 245/40/16 and I'm looking at purchasing Diamond Racing wheels in the 16x8 size. I have combed through tons of threads and here is where I'm at. I've settled on +4 on the offset. I've converted to coilovers, and I've trimmed my front valence already, so I'm in the clear on both of those respects. I have done the Toyota caliper conversion on the front as well. My problem comes in with the wheels themselves. Diamond Racing wheels sets theor ordering by backspacing, not offset. I was wondering how I can convert this +4 offset to backspacing. Or if someo
  4. Well after doing some more searching I found some vintage Goodyear Bias ply tires for free. The tire size is G70-15. Now after doing the conversion this comes to 215-75-15 or a 225-70-15 in modern size. In turn I'm currently running 235-60R-14 on the tires I use currently. Is this new tire still going to be too tall?
  5. I'm wanting to do a wheel/tire combo upgrade on my 1972 240z for the car shows. My 240z has the early 1970s hot rodder look and my goal it so but some of the steel "nascar" looking wheels and put slicks on them. I'm shooting for the GT40 or Cobra look that was prevalent in the early 70s. Locally, I have found a set of used 27/10/15 Hoosier slicks (item # 10610 https://www.hoosiertire.com/pdfs/speccat.pdf). I was wondering if these would fit under the 240. Like I said before these would be for show only so as far as driving around I would put my current wheels back on the car. I'm really jus
  6. Enjoyed doing the write up and giving back to the community. I never really followed up on how the ride is, and honestly most of my driving this year has been on and off the trailer going to car shows. However, this past weekend I hit the road with it. Here is my first impression, the ride is AWESOME! I was really worried that it was going to be way too stiff, like a lot of people have mentioned. However, my stock struts were busted and my car would shake like an earthquake once i got up to 65mph. With the Bilsteins and Cosmos it rides 1000x better. Honestly, I got up to 115 and th
  7. With winter over my suspension project comes to an end. My 240z, spoiler and a 280z taillight conversion, and the entire suspension painted Datsun Golden Mist.
  8. Just refinished my iron crosses. I am also in the process of adding custom knock off style spinners. Hope to have a "How to" article soon.
  9. That looks great! I like how the line-x turned out. I just ended up painting mine black. I have a question though, is there a reason you didn't use a braided line going from the tank to the fuel pump?
  10. Thank you! Here is the painted front suspension with the coilovers installed: Now a before on the rears: And After: All new Yellow-Zinc Hardware on the Suspension bolts. On the few bolts I couldn't find, I just painted them the Nissan Golden Mist. Now for the wheels. My original goal was repaint the inners gold (like they were originally) and polish all of the outer flat lips and just leave the rest of the wheel, the "iron cross" part bare aluminum. After they started soda blasting I noticed that the flat parts were just going to be too much work to po
  11. Wanted to update everyone and someone that may have future prospects of doing this. I sandblasted all of the JB weld off of the old line/tank. Once the line was lose I put some needle nose in the tank, around the line to help fish it out as I pulled on the outside part of the line. To my surprise, the outside popped off. It was after this that I noticed that the inside part of the line didn't move at all. After looking at the outside piece I saw that it was a clean cut. Same goes with the inside part of the line. I couldn't find any information about it being a two piece line, but since it'
  12. Thanks! Going to use this to run to the fuel pump. The rest of my fuel system is good for now , but I will change it in the future. I do have a question about how you used the fitting. My fuel pump is mounted like this: The tank line comes out an an angle so the line itself makes an "S" to get to the fuel pump. Did you cut of straighten the metal line coming out of your tank before you put the fitting on it or did you just leave the metal line alone? Here is a picture of what I'm talking about. Disregard the JB weld, I put that on there last year when I was in a
  13. Hello, I recently bought a 6AN steel bung to weld to the gas tank and over the existing fuel line (pickup) coming out of the tank so I can have the looks of an AN line going from the tank to my fuel pump. However, I have a question about welding the bung around the existing line. If I go ahead the leave the line sticking out of my tank like if is from the factory and slip the bung over it, and weld it to the tank itself will it still be able to pull fuel from the tank? The reason I ask this is because a stock line is pipe clamped onto the metal line itself giving a good seal. While
  14. Are you using a specialty program to make your diagram or just a regular paint program?
  15. Can't help with your first two questions, but as far as #3 goes Bilstein does not recommend putting any kind of Oil or fluid into the strut tube.
  16. Here is a how to/step-by-step guide on changing your S30 struts to P30-0032 (34-184530) Bilstein Sport Struts with Cosmo Racing Coilovers. *DISCLAMER* There are tons of better, tried and true, and working coil-over setups out there. I recommend anyone considering this to look into those setups as well and make your own decision. I got a REALLY good deal on the Cosmos so I wanted to do everything I could to make them work. They are "Cheap" (price point wise) and some will argue that they are the quality that the other brands are. That is a good point, as cheap and quality usually do
  17. Been playing around with the struts some more. Here is how the Cosmos look on a stock strut: Now here is the measurements from the seat to the top of the strut with a stock 240z strut: Here is the same picture, from the seat to the top of the P30 Bilstein Strut. Now I removed the top piece from the top seat. (the little metal dome that I was talking about welding earlier. If I was to bore the top seat out to go around the strut itself (like the bottom seat and threaded piece) I can still rest it on the torrington bearing like the picture below: My next question is, would it be okay
  18. Well I started working on putting the struts together this morning and I ran into a few problems. First off, I know this post was from September/October but I thought it would be better to keep all of these questions in one thread to make it easier for anyone with future questions. The first problem is with the sleeves that fit over the strut and housing itself and allows for the adjustment for the spring itself. The hole at the top is to small for to fit over the chrome shock body itself. That's no big deal as I can just use a hole bit or a hone to drill it out to the correct size.
  19. After having the car running for a few months now I have decided to pull it in the garage and start on the winter project list. The first thing on the list is to completely re-do the suspension. My plan is to strip everything down, paint and re-assemble. In the process I will be putting in new coil-overs and Bilstein struts. I realized that I never showed any pictures of the finished car so I figured I would go ahead and post these first. These were taken in September at a small import meetup at a local shopping center. Now here is a before shot of the suspension:
  20. Here is a video from the other day showing the tachometer in operation at night going down the road. As you can see it's not very stationary, and when the lights are off it gives a completely different reading. http://youtu.be/Zx2IXTFpbyk
  21. Oh I am, not even planning on driving it until the new lugs come in. After I posted this I went and checked the studs and they are indeed the stock studs. The alloy wheels are obviously later model wheels. When I got the car from a previous owner it only had 4 of the correct lugs. The remainder of the lugnuts are the 1/2x20, in face I found extra 1/2x20 lugs in the car after I bought it. In several cases I have put the lugs on the studs and actually stripped the threads on the lugs themselves. Until today I figured this was due to the age of the studs or the lugnuts. However, I now know it was
  22. After looking at everyone's suggestions I dug around and found an extra alloy lug that I had and an extra lug that I have on my car now, which I assumed was the stock 240-280, steel rim lug-nuts. If you look at the lug on the right (the lugs that are on my car) you will see 1/2"-20. It looks like the previous owner put aftermarket non-metric lugs on the car! Now I haven't looked to see if they interchange, but I'm assuming they don't. I have went ahead and ordered a set of the correct alloy lugs, because the way I see it, driving with these lugs is outright dangerous. For futur
  23. Hello, I was wondering what the correct lug-nuts for the Iron cross wheel were: I'm assuming that they look like this: When I bough the car these are the lugs that were on there which are 240z lugnuts: My question is, are the lug nuts I have on there safe? Now I haven't had any problems with them since I have been driving the car but I have been having a persistent vibration. I have been going through things on the checklist (rear end, new bushings, u-joints, etc.) in an attempt to narrow it down. I'm just wondering if these lugnuts could be the potential problem. Thanks. Edit: T
  24. I will be fixing/welding the frame-rail withing the next month/month and a half. Here is what the finished pan looks like: Next, I'm going to order a huuge sheet of 1/8' ABS, (60"x48") and fabricate a true belly pan going from the lower part of the front bumper to the transmission. I'll work on this when I weld the frame rails and replace my struts/coilover conversion.
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