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LLave

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LLave last won the day on July 1 2018

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About LLave

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  • Birthday 05/10/1984

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    Rohnert Park, CA

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  1. I added a piece of tubing that tied in my trans crossmember to the rockers. Stitched it to the floor.
  2. Saw those pics on Facebook. Didn't put it together that it's you. Beautiful photos.
  3. I went with a stock tank, cut the top open and welded in a Tanks inc kit. I heavily considered the Areomotive Phatom kit that Austin Hoke used, if I was not comfortable with a welder I would have gone that way. Why I chose that route, I thought it was the path of least resistance. Rather than fab all the mounts and what not, I thought it would be simpler to modify the tank that already fit. I also considered a stock tank and a surge tank with a high pressure pump. But the only location it really fit was under the hood and I am just not crazy about that idea. Ultimately I am not sure I was right, but that's ok. The weld in option with the pump, sump and sending unit was a little bit difficult to get all sorted out. I then sealed the inside of the tank with KBS gold tank sealer. Which I had to do twice. If you use a sealer be very aggressive about draining out as much as possible before letting it dry. Thick spots will skin over, trap solvent and peel. Stripping and re-doing it is awful. I think I still have the Camaro tank if you want it.
  4. You always use the nicest looking ARP fasteners. I need to step up my bolt game. Do you order bulk packs somewhere?
  5. My DS rear quarter is different than my passenger. No evidence mine was ever replaced, but the wheel well opening is 3/8" off from the PS side. I have a feeling it was build "close enough" from the factory.
  6. To my knowledge that is supposed to be a dry fit. Maybe someone used a lube to get get the hose on, or it leaked and someone tried to seal it with something.
  7. I would not modify the chassis to fit the part. It was my first thought, but if that hatch is ever damaged and needs replacement, you have an odd sized opening. The manufacture should really repair or replace the part. The fit is way off, it's not just a little wonky, it is flat undersized. It might be worth asking a professional composite shop, what it would take to fix. I know it is a race car, but you are such a detail oriented guy, it is going to bug you.
  8. That will probably work fine, as I recall, the bends are all pretty gentle. You could add a little heat for sharper bends, or once you get it in place, dust it with the heat gun and it will hold shape a little bit.
  9. I have had pretty good luck using a heat gun to get ABS to bend. You can set up molds out of MDF or even just bend it over something (like a piece of tubing). The trick is to manage the heat.
  10. I am pretty sure Skillard make aluminum ones
  11. Good info here. There is just so little room for seat and cage, not to mention driver. I have been considering adding a roll bar to my build. However, since it is a street car, and I am a bigger guy, I am not sure I have enough room to get a tube in there that wont be a hazard to my head.
  12. well, those aren't going anywhere. Looks great. Again, thank you for sharing.
  13. I applaud you trying something different. I wonder how that will act in a long sweeping turn. Holding steering input and having roll. I would imagine it will pull on the strut and have some steering input. But I have no real world experience.
  14. Check out the FAQs section. I think an R200 would meet your needs. But there are a couple good options.
  15. I personally, would stick them in as is. Maybe drill some holes in the floor and plug weld. Stitch some 1" sections. Seam seal it all up. But that is just me.
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