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LLave

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LLave last won the day on July 1 2018

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About LLave

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  • Birthday 05/10/1984

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  1. Yeah, you can't leave those. Cut it out, repair anything inside, shoot with weld through, put new panel on. Good luck.
  2. Found a picture, not my car just a random from the internets.
  3. My car has those too. I am 90% sure they are to mount the horns.
  4. Just trim off the back end of that control arm.
  5. I used a VA Sanden 709, it was pretty compact. But like you said, you will run out of room fast. Everything wants to occupy the same space at the same time. Have you checked hood clearance with that alt bracket? Probably ok, but looks like it might be close.
  6. Smaller alternator? What is the part number for the bracket you are using there? Can the bracket be configured so that the alternator is on the side of the valve cover, over by the header? If you are dead set on that location you could cut, notch and weld up that valve cover. A quick google shows me that many people have done that.
  7. What a great project. I am sure that at times it was difficult to keep. I am glad you did. That stereo is way cool in a retro way. I have never seen one like it. Might want to download this PDF http://www.oldsmobility.com/board/RM610.pdf
  8. Nice, that is the first I have seen this transmission. Keep us posted.
  9. That little swoop from the main rails to the rears, yeah I am stealing that. When my car goes back on the rotisserie I am going to add that.
  10. Holy hell... What a gear box.
  11. I think that is going to work out great. Quick google-foo shows me that Radium has an FPR housing built around that same regulator style. Makes for nice way to land AN fittings on that regulator. Is that what you are using? http://www.radiumauto.com/Fuel-Pressure-Regulator-P229.aspx I am considering ditching my Aeromotive regulator, seems like lots of people have problems with them.
  12. You're wrong! Noobie! Classic. Usually coming from people who have not built anything. I always enjoy the discussion on HybridZ. Another route to consider is OEM modules. I got the chance to speak with Rick's Tanks for a while at SEMA a couple years ago. They are big on using the ZL1/CTSV modules. They have an awful lot of good tech built right into them. Swirl jets to increase pickup, a reservoir to protect against starvation, a fuel pressure regulator, level sensor, they support big power and you can get a replacement at a dealer. They also have after market setups that can support 2000hp, should you decide your destiny is to go out in a blaze of glory. I am not sure what your exact tank configuration is but, they have a weld in option and a bolt in. Might be worth talking to them. https://rickstanks.com/product/weld-in/ Also, Vapor Works utilizes these modules with high tech PWM controllers. Speed control for your fuel pump. They utilize a fuel pressure sensor down stream and control pump flow. https://www.vaporworx.com/documentation/fuel-modules/ https://www.vaporworx.com/documentation/how-do-pwm-returnless-fuel-systems-work/ Big power module https://www.deatschwerks.com/5th-gen-camaro-dw400-pump-module Regarding your plumbing, I don't think you will have any issue plumbing it up with hose. Any of the good quality fuel injection tubing will be fine. Heck they plumb new cars up with that nylon stuff and they are fine. The trick is going to be routing your lines away from heat and moving parts. 10 pounds... 5 pound bag.
  13. You might want to reference the instructions for whatever FPR you are using. I know aeormotive recommends that the FPR go on the return http://aeromotiveinc.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/131-0109-0revH.pdf I was going to run a returnless Corvette fitler/regulator combo, but after thinking it over, I decided to run dedicated feed and return hard lines all the way. This seems the be the most robust in terms of being scale-able to future horsepower growth.
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