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LLave

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LLave last won the day on July 1 2018

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About LLave

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  • Birthday 05/10/1984

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    Rohnert Park, CA

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  1. I think that is the right call. Going to save you so much time and money in the end.
  2. I had the same thought. Why not move it above the runner? But on the other hand, it doesn't take very much load.
  3. I did mine in very similar fashion. Keep in mind that the factory used fairly low temp solder to attach the hose barbs and sending unit flange. I got mine too hot and had some solder run out. Which was a bit of a pain to fix. I ended up fitting the Tanks inc sending unit in there as well. It was tight and I am not sure I gained much from it. In hindsight I should have just fixed the factory one. Do you plan on sealing the inside? I would be happy to share notes on that. I got good at it after I had to completely strip and re-do it a second time. Don't be like me, do it once.
  4. I would find another chassis. I just heard a rumor from a coworker there is a clean shell down the road for $800. They are out there. I would way rather do floors than that roof repair.
  5. Might try the colbolt bits from McMaster. They are a bit harder than the HSS bits but not as fragile as carbide. I have used them in harder material. I had a real problem with loosening drive shaft bolts. I ended up taking the nuts, placing a chisel across the face and giving it a solid whack. It peens over the edge and stopped my loosening problem. Safety wire is probably a better idea though. I may go ahead and do this when I assemble my CVs. Keep us posted on how it works out
  6. I should have looked at the pictures better. Typically these repairs are done with a butt weld, you do not over lap material. If you do, you need to bend an offset flange. Harbor freight has an air tool that punches holes on one side and offsets on the other. You are going to have a hard time blending a piece that is stacked like that. For you to grind it flat, you will have to grind all the way through your new material. I would rethink your approach. Cut your patch panel to fit the hole, to make it easier to weld and to fill the holes you drilled, add some material behind to make a flange. Like this:
  7. It is a super cool car. Might want to look into Fuel Safe discriminator valves, its a little float that blocks liquid but lets out air. Also, coiling the vent hose once can help too.
  8. Take your time. Get the fit really good. Leave a little gap, about the diameter of the wire you are using. Tack the part in, then slowly ticky-tacky all the way around. The 3M green corps 01991 discs are great for grinding down weld material. Loud and messy, but they remove material quickly and don't over heat the part. They are designed to finish grind mig welds. You got this.
  9. Bending the bar and adjustable links might get you there. Do pay attention to the final angle of the link though. If it is less than 90 degrees, it does change the effectiveness of the sway bar. I I am sure that I personally would not be able to detect a small change, but if the angle gets steep it could be significant. http://www.gtsparkplugs.com/Sway-Bar-Link-Force-Calculator.html
  10. That is amazing. What a tidy looking connector. When I first read 61 pin, I thought to myself, wow this might be overkill.. Nope. Just the right amount. So many wires these days.
  11. Drag cars do that some times. However, I would be worried about the liquid fuel running out of the vent line in the photo above. Yikes!
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