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LLave

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LLave last won the day on May 15

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About LLave

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  • Birthday 05/10/1984

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    Rohnert Park, CA

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  1. Yeah two important items. 1. Get ALL the excess out. You have to keep rotating the tank and draining off the excess. For me there was a little lip that made it extra hard to get it all out. If you leave any excess, it will puddle, the top will dry first. This creates a sink over liquid sealant, trapping in the solvents, it it will cause a pealing adhesion problem 2. Heat, for the same reason as above. I did mine in the winter and thought I needed to warm up the garage to help dry. I got the tank too warm, this made the material dry too fast, trapping in solvent under a dry skin. You want the sealant to dry at the correct rate. Both of these points are covered in the instructions, you just have to actually listen. Heh https://www.kbs-coatings.com/tank-sealer-directions.html
  2. Looks great to me. I would be happy with those results.
  3. There is a company that makes a reproduction Auto Panel Solutions, I see their stuff on facebook.
  4. Looks really good. When you shoot epoxy on that and see it wet, I think you will be happy. Good tip on the pressure, I have experienced that as well. Light pressure is crucial. Also, used the longest block that fits the part. Great work. Inspirational
  5. I used the KBS gold coating kit. https://www.kbs-coatings.com/Auto-Fuel-Tank-Sealer-Kit.html
  6. My car, unbraced, attached at the bumper bracket locations was just fine. I even climbed in it a few times. No issues. However, I will say, bad dog frame rails were one of the first things I did.
  7. I added a piece of tubing that tied in my trans crossmember to the rockers. Stitched it to the floor.
  8. Saw those pics on Facebook. Didn't put it together that it's you. Beautiful photos.
  9. I went with a stock tank, cut the top open and welded in a Tanks inc kit. I heavily considered the Areomotive Phatom kit that Austin Hoke used, if I was not comfortable with a welder I would have gone that way. Why I chose that route, I thought it was the path of least resistance. Rather than fab all the mounts and what not, I thought it would be simpler to modify the tank that already fit. I also considered a stock tank and a surge tank with a high pressure pump. But the only location it really fit was under the hood and I am just not crazy about that idea. Ultimately I am not sure I was right, but that's ok. The weld in option with the pump, sump and sending unit was a little bit difficult to get all sorted out. I then sealed the inside of the tank with KBS gold tank sealer. Which I had to do twice. If you use a sealer be very aggressive about draining out as much as possible before letting it dry. Thick spots will skin over, trap solvent and peel. Stripping and re-doing it is awful. I think I still have the Camaro tank if you want it.
  10. You always use the nicest looking ARP fasteners. I need to step up my bolt game. Do you order bulk packs somewhere?
  11. My DS rear quarter is different than my passenger. No evidence mine was ever replaced, but the wheel well opening is 3/8" off from the PS side. I have a feeling it was build "close enough" from the factory.
  12. To my knowledge that is supposed to be a dry fit. Maybe someone used a lube to get get the hose on, or it leaked and someone tried to seal it with something.
  13. I would not modify the chassis to fit the part. It was my first thought, but if that hatch is ever damaged and needs replacement, you have an odd sized opening. The manufacture should really repair or replace the part. The fit is way off, it's not just a little wonky, it is flat undersized. It might be worth asking a professional composite shop, what it would take to fix. I know it is a race car, but you are such a detail oriented guy, it is going to bug you.
  14. That will probably work fine, as I recall, the bends are all pretty gentle. You could add a little heat for sharper bends, or once you get it in place, dust it with the heat gun and it will hold shape a little bit.
  15. I have had pretty good luck using a heat gun to get ABS to bend. You can set up molds out of MDF or even just bend it over something (like a piece of tubing). The trick is to manage the heat.
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