TONY C Posted June 3, 2016 Share Posted June 3, 2016 (edited) Hello Men, It:s been a long time since I posted. But I have a problem and need help. On my 3/76 Is running on 240 carbs. SO I DECIDED TO CLEAN OUT ALL THE WIRES I THOUGHT I DIDN:T NEED. Deleted all efi parts and wires under hood. Ran Great. Deleted all the AC wires and EGR wires to and from the water temp switch and the water temp relay got deleted. and now No spark. The white wire that goes to the transistor ignition unit was also deleted as when I followed in the diagram it went through the water temp switch. So Obviously I created a problem because now it will not spark. The coil is energizing but nothing is telling it to send spark to the cap. I Do still have the dual pickup distributor. So. I know I can get a zx dizzy but I don:t want to spend the coin as I plan on an EDIS system for my turbo setup later in the year. How do I wire the dual pickup so i can get it to spark without using a water temp switch? Thanks for any help. Edited June 3, 2016 by TONY C Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JSM Posted June 3, 2016 Share Posted June 3, 2016 On my 3/76 Is running on 240 carbs. SO I DECIDED TO CLEAN OUT ALL THE WIRES I THOUGHT I DIDN:T NEED. Deleted all efi parts and wires under hood. Ran Great. Deleted all the AC wires and EGR wires to and from the water temp switch and the water temp relay got deleted. and now No spark. The white wire that goes to the transistor ignition unit was also deleted as when I followed in the diagram it went through the water temp switch. So Obviously I created a problem because now it will not spark. No I'll will intended I've done stuff like this myself ... but why not add back what you cut out? It seems your answer is in the problem you created? You'll have to cut the harness back open and graft the wires back in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted June 3, 2016 Share Posted June 3, 2016 What do you mean by "deleted"? Obviously you need to go back to the diagram and give the module what it needs. Try the Engine Electrical chapter. It describes how things work. And use the link below for a good diagram. Make sure the red and green wires are actually connected to the module. Use a meter or test light. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/wiringdiagrams/76_280z_wiring.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TONY C Posted June 3, 2016 Author Share Posted June 3, 2016 Deleted: Removed, done away with, not there anymore. if you look at a 77 they do not use the parts I removed. No need for parts that run the efi since I do not have efi any longer. I am 100% posative there is a way to make it work without the wire as other years do not have the wire. Let:s assume that I asked this instead. If I have a dual pickup distributor and a matching ignition unit. How would I wire it up. Assume I am Not using it in a z car but a dune buggy or something so your not trying to get me to put back stuff. Only just what i Need. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
juxsa Posted June 4, 2016 Share Posted June 4, 2016 I'm thinking the TIU from the non CA 76 needs that signal from the water temp relay to tell the distributor to fire. I think using a TIU from another year would be worth a try or doing the GM HEI mod Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted June 4, 2016 Share Posted June 4, 2016 How would I wire it up. Wire it up the way it was wired up. The green wire from the distributor has to have continuity to the green wire at the module. Same with the red. Might as well do the brown wire too, just in case. You're making it more complicated than it is. You haven't even confirmed that the distributor is still actually connected to the module. You might have deleted a different wire by accident or ripped it loose. Use a meter and suss it out. Don't be so vague in your descriptions either. It will help you think. Literally, what you're saying with all your variations of "delete" is that you stripped the white wire completely free of the harness and the car, from the ignition module to the engine bay and engine. Every trace of white wire is gone. Did you do that? Have you actually looked at the ignition module? It's not clear. "I ripped a bunch of wires out of my engine bay and my engine doesn't run anymore". That's all that can be discerned from your words.. I ran my 76 module for many miles with no water temperature switch. I also used a 78 module for a while after my 76 module died. Then a GM HEI module. The red wire and the green wire are the key. You could go directly to the GM HEI module if you've somehow damaged your factory module. But you'll still need to confirm connections. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JSM Posted June 4, 2016 Share Posted June 4, 2016 https://youtu.be/W94iksaQwUo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
juxsa Posted June 4, 2016 Share Posted June 4, 2016 Yeah the entire wiring harness was taken out of the car, removed (deleted) wiring that went to A/C and EFI stuff, then the rest was rewrapped and reinstalled. The white wire has been completely removed from the car as well as the water temp relay. He's doing a not quite full on restoration of the car. Does his TIU need the water temp relay in order to tell the dist to spark? I can't help but think that doing the GM HEI mod to the TIU fix the issue Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
juxsa Posted June 4, 2016 Share Posted June 4, 2016 (edited) If you are unable to contribute in helping solve the issue could you not crap the thread Edited June 4, 2016 by juxsa Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JSM Posted June 4, 2016 Share Posted June 4, 2016 Really? To me it seems like the basic concept of how to wire simple points distributor was unknown. That video really it explains it all. With all your great wisdom and knowledge why don't you go over and help him? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TONY C Posted June 4, 2016 Author Share Posted June 4, 2016 (edited) I'm down for an hei mod if you can point me to an easy rite up. I also have a 77 I can rob for parts if needed. Since this is a temporary power plant and electronics I would like to keep cost to a minimum. Yes I completely removed the white wire thinking it was not needed. I know MY BAD> But it's done. I also removed the water temp rely and the ac wires. So to be even more Exact. Wires remover are as follows. Connector C7. Green wire. Goes to the water temp relay and out to egr cut solenoid REMOVED Connector C6. Green/Yellow wire. Goes to water temp relay, water temp switch Connector C5. Black/yellow wire. Yellow/black wire. Goes to seat belt relay, and auto trans if equipped. White Wire from Ign unit to water temp relay and to test port at coil. Test port also removed. If you look at diagram you will see there is no need for the wire test port. It;s all piggy backed in. I retained the wire terminal block near the coil that the dizzy wires connect too. Red , Red/black, Green all make a full trip to the ign unit Full continuity. Confirmed on my Mastech dmm. The blue, blue/black black/white going to the coil all make a full trip as well. Again checked with my Mastech MS8264 DMM Coil is getting 12v on bot sides wile key is on. Blue wire at Ign unit getting 12+v Black/white wire at Ign unit getting 12+v Black wire at Ign unit full ground. I'm not an idiot tat ripped a bunch of shit out of my car and expect the internet to fix it. What I am asking is what do I need to do to help You Help Me? Thanks Edited June 4, 2016 by TONY C Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TONY C Posted June 4, 2016 Author Share Posted June 4, 2016 It seems to me by reading the diagram the White wire to ign unit I removed would be a ground connecting through the water temp switch and getting ground from an egr cut switch. So if it's the case When EGR cut is engaged a ground at the ign unit where white wire is used to be would retard timing.? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted June 4, 2016 Share Posted June 4, 2016 There's actually a test procedure for the dual pickup units in the Engine Electrical chapter of the FSM. Disconnecting the white wire is part of the test. So that's not really a problem. Could be that you did something else while you were there that is causing problems. You say no spark, but are you sure it's not no fuel? My car wouldn't start with the tachometer disconnected. The ECU didn't like the signal from the coil, on Pin 1. Did you do more deleting thanjust the water temperature circuit. I'd open up the FSM and test the distributor parts. Your wiring looks fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TONY C Posted June 4, 2016 Author Share Posted June 4, 2016 (edited) I may go HEI. looks very easy. Will I need to get a single pickup distributor? Or can I just use 1 pickup in mine and leave the other unused? Since I'm on 240 carbs all efi stuff is gone. ALL. Everything. No EFI None. No relay. No wires. NONE. LOL.. Edited June 4, 2016 by TONY C Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted June 4, 2016 Share Posted June 4, 2016 Just use one of the two, but make sure it actually works. If pickup coil resistance is correct, it will probably work. Could be that your whole problem right now is just a bad pickup coil. Mine had one. You could go through this whole scenario again, but with a GM HEI module. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TONY C Posted June 4, 2016 Author Share Posted June 4, 2016 Gotcha and it could be. Wires around where they enter the dizzy are kindof brittle. I"ll test it up and report back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted June 4, 2016 Share Posted June 4, 2016 I'd test at the ignition module. You can have continuity to the engine bay AND a short to ground. If it;s shorted it won't work.. Measure resistance, get a number, across green and red and then green and brown. Green is common to both. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
juxsa Posted June 4, 2016 Share Posted June 4, 2016 If I could thumbs up this post 100 times I would. We'll look through the fsm and let you know what we figure out There's actually a test procedure for the dual pickup units in the Engine Electrical chapter of the FSM. Disconnecting the white wire is part of the test. So that's not really a problem. Could be that you did something else while you were there that is causing problems. You say no spark, but are you sure it's not no fuel? My car wouldn't start with the tachometer disconnected. The ECU didn't like the signal from the coil, on Pin 1. Did you do more deleting thanjust the water temperature circuit. I'd open up the FSM and test the distributor parts. Your wiring looks fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted June 4, 2016 Share Posted June 4, 2016 Once you get in to the test sections and start taking measurements and finding problems and things that are right, you'll wonder why you waited so long. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TONY C Posted June 4, 2016 Author Share Posted June 4, 2016 Well I pulled it apart to fix the battery size hole. haha.. Basically redid the entire engine bay. motor is back in now. But you know how you take things too far sometimes? Well I decided I do not want Anything bolted back to the inner fenders. Except the coil. None of the relays, fuse links, mounting metal, voltage reg, battery tray up front. None. Nada, Gone, Deleted, Bye Bye. So wen I re routed the wires I routed it all to the passenger floor. All real tidy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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