KidandhisCar Posted November 3, 2016 Share Posted November 3, 2016 Hi all, ive got toyota 4 pistons up front, yesterday i went to take the z out (81) After its been sitting for a few months,i quickly found my brake pedal went to the floor, upon backing the car up i found a wet spot in my dirt driveway coming from bleow the battery area,i was unable to find any wet lines or connections but im sure a leak is present,as the mc was empty. I tried filling the mc and pumping the brakes to find the leak but was unsuccesful,so im going to have to bleed the system find the leak,repair it,then bleed again. This got me thinking,the way i normally bleed my brakes is to use an rc plane fuel pump and pump the brake fluid in through each caliper with a pan under the mc,until no more air comes up out of the mc. Has anyone ever install check valves into the calipers where the bleeder niples wouldn go? So fluid could onlyngo into the calipers and not out when doing this? Ive already sourced some m10 x 1.0 check valves just curios what anyones thought are on this beforeni go through with it. And i dont mean "speeder bleeders",those only let fluid out of the caliperand prevent air from going back in,im looking for the opposite effect, fluid into the caliper but not back out,any thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted November 3, 2016 Share Posted November 3, 2016 You don't need check valves. I was having a hell of a time bleeding my brand new system with new calipers, soft and hard lines, and masters. Tried the usual method, a vacuum bleeder, nothing was working. Ended up using a 50cc food syringe that we fed my daughter with when she was a baby and had throat surgery. Just stuck a little section of tubing on the end, and hooked it up to the cracked bleeders and forced brake fluid through the lines. Worked great. Did my clutch the same way after initial bleeding didn't get the air out of it. Seems like the way to go, and I guess motorcycles do this pretty commonly.This one looks like it would work. http://www.ebay.com/itm/50ml-Plastic-Disposable-Syringe-For-Measuring-Hydroponics-Nutrient-60ml-50cc-NEW-/191938379599 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
siteunseen Posted November 3, 2016 Share Posted November 3, 2016 The fluid goes in through the hardlines on my Z, air exits through the higher bleeder valve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KidandhisCar Posted November 3, 2016 Author Share Posted November 3, 2016 Thats the same way i came about using the rc pump,4 new calipers,new mc and hardlines/stainless line. It was kicking my ass when I first did it,so i used the rc pump and started at rear right and pump fluidnin through the calipers until no more bubbles came out the master,pedal was PERFECT. I was just thinking for easy of simplicity,plug the line onto the caliper check valve,run the pump until no more bubbles in the mc,move onto the next caliper.could make for some quick fluid flushes,and bleeds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted November 3, 2016 Share Posted November 3, 2016 The fluid goes in through the hardlines on my Z, air exits through the higher bleeder valve. Don't open the higher bleeder. Just let it come out the master, as that bleeds the master as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.