MerloZ Posted January 2, 2017 Share Posted January 2, 2017 I have just finished assembling my MS2 for my 82 l28et. The megamanual explains how to do the final testing. and none of the three ms2 LED's light up like it says they should. i am almost positive i didnt make any mistake assembing the last section. on tunerstudio i currently get all gauges reading from operating the stimulator. the stim has fuel pump light on and i1, i2 flickering. anyone have any ideas. i want to get this swap done !! thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AkRev Posted January 2, 2017 Share Posted January 2, 2017 Are you using a Hall or VR sensor? How is your hall or vr sensor wired up? Are you using 3.57 or 3.0 board? What input are you running on the ms board? (VR or Opto) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MerloZ Posted January 6, 2017 Author Share Posted January 6, 2017 Are you using a Hall or VR sensor? How is your hall or vr sensor wired up? Are you using 3.57 or 3.0 board? What input are you running on the ms board? (VR or Opto) Im using the hall sensor on the 82 l28et dizzy. i set it up for hall by following the megamanual 3.0 board and im pretty sure im running opto. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted January 6, 2017 Share Posted January 6, 2017 none of the three ms2 LED's light up like it says they should Who is "they"? If you show people what docs you;'re working from they can go to the same ones and draw their own conclusions. Who knows, you might be misinterpreting what you're reading. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AkRev Posted January 6, 2017 Share Posted January 6, 2017 (edited) If you are getting it to work on the stim, my guess is that it most likely is your wiring of the hall sensor. A few followup questions, I always used MSextra over megamanual. So referencing megamanual does not mean much to those that are used to MSextra without the link. There are many ways to accomplish the same task with megasquirt, everyone has their own flair when it comes to wiring. How are you getting power to your hall sensor? Is it 5v or 12v? I have not used the 280z dizzy, but I have done this many times with KAs running the 24-2 cam wheels. I wired it as found here at msextra, but I did the 12v steps listed in the notes outside of MS for the 1k pull up (like DIY shows here - I used the 1k pull up in the wiring for pin 24 Connect S12 to TachSelect using a 1K resistor. (Or you can use a 1K pull up in the wiring, between pin 24 and a 12V source.) Just to be clear, you will have power to the hall sensor, Ground, and then the output to pin 24, you will also have a 12v pull up on a 1k resistor on the output line. That will give you a clean signal that you can use on the opto input. you can also use that on the vr, but will have to turn the pots a few turns. Hope that helps Edit: Are you using the DIY trigger wheel or the stock one? Edited January 6, 2017 by AkRev Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MerloZ Posted January 6, 2017 Author Share Posted January 6, 2017 If you are getting it to work on the stim, my guess is that it most likely is your wiring of the hall sensor. A few followup questions, I always used MSextra over megamanual. So referencing megamanual does not mean much to those that are used to MSextra without the link. There are many ways to accomplish the same task with megasquirt, everyone has their own flair when it comes to wiring. How are you getting power to your hall sensor? Is it 5v or 12v? I have not used the 280z dizzy, but I have done this many times with KAs running the 24-2 cam wheels. I wired it as found here at msextra, but I did the 12v steps listed in the notes outside of MS for the 1k pull up (like DIY shows here - I used the 1k pull up in the wiring for pin 24 Connect S12 to TachSelect using a 1K resistor. (Or you can use a 1K pull up in the wiring, between pin 24 and a 12V source.) Just to be clear, you will have power to the hall sensor, Ground, and then the output to pin 24, you will also have a 12v pull up on a 1k resistor on the output line. That will give you a clean signal that you can use on the opto input. you can also use that on the vr, but will have to turn the pots a few turns. Hope that helps Edit: Are you using the DIY trigger wheel or the stock one? i have no wiring connected. i havnt gotten that far yet im simply testing my ms2 with the megastim. i bought the wheel with slots cut out of it from DIY. and i dont think i wired the jumpers and hall sensor setup wrong otherwise tunerstudio would read my stim. wheras it is reading my stim. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AkRev Posted January 6, 2017 Share Posted January 6, 2017 Ok, I missed the issue from your first post. In rereading it, it still sounds a bit off. So lets clear things up. Do you see rpm in TS with the stim or just gauges? If no rpm, make sure you have the three jumpers for the opto circuit. If rpm can be seen, you will need to take a look at the outputs for the software. You can have the three leds represent different things. So post a screenscreenshot of your input outputs form basic settings in TS. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MerloZ Posted January 16, 2017 Author Share Posted January 16, 2017 Ok, I missed the issue from your first post. In rereading it, it still sounds a bit off. So lets clear things up. Do you see rpm in TS with the stim or just gauges? If no rpm, make sure you have the three jumpers for the opto circuit. If rpm can be seen, you will need to take a look at the outputs for the software. You can have the three leds represent different things. So post a screenscreenshot of your input outputs form basic settings in TS. Yes i see rpm in TS. i have xg1 jumpered to xg2, igbtout to ign, tachselect to optoin, tsel to optout, igbtin to js10, s12c to js9, and then the four loger jumpers jumped to corresponding holes. i allready checked and tested the tuner studio settings for the led and they all seem to be correct. i even switched them around and tested them to see if i could at least get something but nothing still. I will be swapping my engine soon and making the harness. Do you think it would be a bad idea to try and run it as is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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