83 L28ET Engine was rebuilt with aftermarket upgrades. *edited*

[jkh280zx]

In April of this year (2007), I posted a request for help on zcar.com (Car will not start!). The problems were related to oil on the spark plugs (worn rings) and other evils. My sources of information told me that this ’83 L28ET engine needed to be rebuilt. With a philosophy of maintenance/efficiency before stranded/repair, I had already made several modifications to this car. First of all, heavier struts (KYB GR-2) & shocks (KYB GAS-a-just) were added at ~130K miles; next, a 3-row radiator from a ’80 automatic turbo and a complete high-performance cam kit were installed into the L28ET engine, both of these mods were added at ~170K miles; and a new matched set of OEM Nissan injectors (265cc) was installed more recently at ~287K miles. What is next?

 

 

After two attempts to find a machinist/mechanic to rebuild this L28ET engine, I found one just north of Jonesboro (AR). During our first conversation, James, the owner of Jim’s Machine & Auto Shop, related to me his experiences rebuilding engines of the L6-series, 300zx, SBC350 and others. In short, this shop was chosen to rebuild and incorporate many upgrades. James became “The Zdoctor” for my car; the term given to the one who takes care of my wheels.

 

 

After spending many weeks reading the Guidelines, FAQs, Stickies, and threads in HybridZ and sourcing for an engine rebuilding kit for my Zcar on the Internet, the journey became a major challenge to find the right parts for this ‘83 L28ET. Since several of the existing parts for an engine rebuild were relatively new, I focused on finding the remaining components that fit the head (P90a)&block (F-54) and to find an upgrade to replace the original T3 turbo. Eventually, I e-mailed Paul (HybridZ, Administrator) and, subsequently, he suggested John (HybridZ) as a good source for the turbo question. In parallel, the information really started to flow into the project. From correspondence with John (HybridZ), the following points were also provided: porting of 60 mm TB/intake manifold/runners and the cylinder head; boring 20 thousands (+0.020) or larger; cast pistons vs forged pistons; ARP studs for the rods, mains and head; an OEM oil cooler; an adjustable fuel-pressure regulator (vacuum/boost referenced unit); stock turbo injectors vs higher cc capacity injectors for increased HP; aftermarket EMS to support 300+HP and higher levels of performance; stock J-pipe vs modified downpipe (w/ ports for external wastegate & oxygen sensor) that runs from the turbo to the Cat; 3” vs 2.5” exhaust system; spark plugs and electrical systems; MSD-like for an improved ignition system; air intercooler for turbo preservation; and turbo specifications for 300+HP.

 

After the first week, I visited the shop where the L28ET was being “refreshed”. The block and head had already been dismantled, cleaned and were good-to-go. Other parts as well: the crank, the cam kit, the timing-chain kit, the clutch and flywheel, etc. were also fine. New engine parts (pistons, valves, etc.) had already been purchased (ITM Engine Components).

 

The following week, I returned and the engine had been assembled and it looked great. I watched as the Zdoc installed the 60 mm TB + spacer and a turbo barb fuel rail kit with its fuel pressure gauge (60 psi). An adjustable fuel-pressure regulator (1:1 vacuum to boost) as suggested by John (HybridZ) was purchased (AEM) and installed via Paul’s schematic diagram and adjusted via another thread, both from HybridZ. Next, the OEM hydraulic lifters were replaced with solid lifters. [screw thread inserts were purchased from Time-Serts®.] Parts that were ordered for this rebuild were put into this project: a 60 mm TB kit w/ plastic spacer (PAllnet Specialty Automotive Parts) and a complete turbo barb fuel rail system (PAllnet), 105 amp alternator (Zselect.com), cold air induction system (MSA), oil cooler kit (MSA), new turbo oil pump (ebay), turbo high-pressure EFI fuel pump *NR* (95 psi) (ebay), NGK BPR7ES spark plugs (ebay), turbo electronic distributor for 280zxt (ebay) and new distributor cap & wires (local), new water pump (local) and new timing-chain kit for 280zxt (ebay).

 

 

Next was to purchase a new turbo; the original T3 unit was completely worn out. The new turbo that was selected was a Garrett T3/TO4E 50 trim w/ .63 a/r housing (Phoenix Turbo & MFG). This hybrid has a stage 3 compressor wheel and a T04E 50 trim a/r w/ .63 turbine housing, which fits the specs of this car (John at HybridZ). An external TiAL wastegate (38mm), which is normally sold with this hybrid turbo, was purchased from the provider (Phoenix Turbo & MFG). A downpipe (2.5”) and flanges were constructed by the Zdoc with ports for the wastegate and oxygen sensor; both the Cat and the piping/muffler will eventually be changed out. Currently, she runs tight/heavy on the road but She is Alive!!

 

The Maiden Voyage of 21 miles on the road by jkh.

 

Next was to purchase a front-mounted, air intercooler system (IC). From sourcing HybridZ, three IC piping routes were discussed by members of this group (wigenOut-S30); route #3 was declared the best so I selected this route for my Zcar, which meant a same side air intercooler needed to be purchased. This style IC unit had been discussed in HybridZ (randy 77zt) and the Internet. The one purchased possesses the following characteristics: turbo application up to 600HP, all aluminum with bar&plate design, and same side inlet (2.5”) & outlet (2.5”) style air intercooler with a core of 18”x6”x3.5” (total length: 20”x12”x3.5”) (XO2 Racing). Next, a universal FMIC intercooler piping kit was purchased with several additional turbo silicone connectors (2” to 2.5”, 2.5” to 3.0”, and 2.5” to 2.5” bends) (GS Infinity). Also, an electric dual fan (Maradyne*) (SRS) (2,760 cfm) was purchased and placed directly in front of the AC grill (AC kept). AND the so-call need for an oil cooler was mute because the Zdoc noted that my car already had an oil cooler in the radiator, which the latter was installed at about 170K+ miles.

 

Take a Deep Breath! Make HP and Preserve the Turbo. Air intercooler system consisted of a same-side FMIC, cold air intake system and a dual electric Maradyne fan.

 

Engine bay and FMIC & Cold Air Intake tubing: AFTER the process.

 

She came home Sept. 7th to stay. The break-in procedure has started as described in HybridZ, “What is the best way to break-in a rebuilt engine”. Each day, she was driven for one hour on the open road at constant speed with occasional accelerations and decelerations: current mileage is ~1500 miles of new life.

 

Next a new EMS. Currently, an ‘83 OEM ECU/AFM/turbo distributor system is governing a completely rebuilt engine with aftermarket upgrades; therefore, a new engine management system (EMS) is needed (Steve, correspondence). Many threads exist in HybridZ that discusses the following: reprogrammed OEM ECU, Z31 ECU/MAF swap, plug&play+ (eMS-Pro) or standalone (Electromotive, Wolf3D, etc.). These systems have advantages: do I want to drive today or drive after extensive hours of tuning and, of course, which system is best for my 300+HP goal.

 

This truly has been a team effort. James, the Zdoc, and his crew has worked timely and diligently on this project. Thanks to John (HybridZ), Paul (HybridZ, Administrator) and Peter (HybridZ and zcar.com) for all your help and, respectfully, your time. You all gave creative skills, suggestions and focus to this project. Thanks to HybridZ and its many members, too numerous to note, who have generated the many threads discussing problems-challenges associated with owning a Datsun Z car.

 

Enjoying the Ride!!!!!!!!

John (jkh280zx)

 

For complete text, See:

http://thehemp.netfirms.com/L28ETtext-history.htm

[jkh280zx]

As a follow-up, the following parts have been installed in this Zcar:

 

GripForce F1 Racing Stage 2 clutch kit (purchased via ebay);

OEM flywheel was surface milled;

Re-build T5 transmission (bearings replaced); and

Polyurethane bushings (purchased via ebay) on front corners (jmortensen).

See: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=114631

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=107793

 

These changes, in total, made a tremendous difference in the way this Zcar drives; the transmission stopped whinnning; the clutch is tighter; and the ride is firmer on the road & in turns and more stable in the front end. She is so easy (fun) to drive. However, she has been driven cautiously so far. This will change after the remaining upgrades are completed.

 

TiAL blow-off-valve (BOV) (purchased but not installed, yet)

Cat converter (3-way & high-flow) (2.5â€) / Muffler (2.5â€)

Higher cc injectors (to be determined)

P&P+ or a stand-alone EMS (to be determined)

 

Since some of the engine-rebuild decisions were not mine, I have researched one of the most critical parts of a rebuild, the selection of the pistons. Hyper-eutectic pistons were placed in this L28ET. Subsequently, the primary focus of this search was technology, composition and durability of these pistons. After reading the articles below, I am comfortable with this decision to run with hyper-eutectic pistons because irregular tuning/maintenance and heavy loads (heat) are two of the many critical reasons for piston failure (detonation). However, only time will tell.

 

Piston Upgrade: Cast, Hyper-eutectic or Forge pistons.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hypereutectic_piston

http://www.stealth316.com/2-pistonguide.htm

http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/power-adder/214262-hypereutectic-pistons-not-so.html

Larry Carley, Technical Editor. Engine Builder Magazine. Pistons and Pins: What’s New. (Google) See: ??

Larry Carley, Technical Editor. Engine Builder Magazine. Piston Design, An Evolutionary Tale. (Google) See: http://www.babcox.com/editorial/ar/eb40354.htm

Larry Carley, Technical Editor. Engine Builder Magazine. Performance Pistons. See: http://www.aa1car.com/library/2005/eb60522.htm

Beck Racing. Hypereutectic -vs- Forged Pistons. See: http://webpages.charter.net/beckracing/page11.htm

BLKMGK in HybridZ. Heads and bores. See: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=65902

QUIKDECISION in Offshoreonly.com. Piston Choice- hypereutectic vs. forged. See: http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-102390.html

Piston Tech by TEAM-INTEGRA.NET. See: http://www.team-integra.net/sections/articles/showArticle.asp?ArticleID=183

TRS in TheRangerStation.com. cast vs hypereutectic pistons. See: http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?p=72404

 

Enjoy the reads!

Purchased the new edition of “The FAST and the Furious†and enjoyed $50K build-up of a regular street car (Mit. EVO 8). Yes, she was nice toooo!

 

john

[jkh280zx]

Last week, the flange for the TiAL BOV (blow-off valve) was TIG welded to the charged intake pipe. Rick performed the task. When I asked him if I could smooth the weld evenly, he gave me a major look of “what are you going to do with my efforts”. Well, under his guidance, I smoothed down the welded region as shown in the photo. It took me almost two days to accomplish this task (James had gone to Seattle to buy a SG8A Rottler). I am pleased with the attachment of this TiAL BOV; it really helps to have experience and tools to accomplish the mods that one wants for their Zcar.

 

Photos: Attachment of TiAL BOV and Polishing.

 

 

Photos: Assembling BOV (James)

 

Snip! Snip!

Out goes the old and in goes the new!

Recycled to the intake manifold!

After Photo!

 

The pop-off valve remains on this L28ET. We could not find a tool to get it off. I have only heard it once and that was after the rebuild so for the time being, it will remain. Time will tell!!!

 

Well, sooner or later, information comes via HybridZ. Thanks mario 82 ZXT (#10) & hughdogz (#11) for the procedure to take off the OEM pop-off valve on this 83 280zxt. See: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=132686

 

This completes the “protect-the-turbo” phase of this rebuild; IC and wastegate have already been added. The BOV is essential in protecting the turbo and maintaining the spooling rate created by the compressor housing wheel, which improves performance within a timed situation but does not add to HP.

 

The purpose of the BOV is to release most, if not all, of the negative air pressure between the throttle plate and the turbo, when the TB plate is closed (See: Tony D post #41 reference below, etc.). Without a place for this negative air pressure to go, the turbo compressor wheel would rapidly decelerate from ~120K rpms under boost conditions to much lower rpms that would cause a serious lag in response, when re-applying the throttle in the next gear (i.e. turbo lag).

BOV 101. See: http://www.venommotorsports.com/library/bov.asp

 

This constant spooling-up under boost conditions and spooling-down under deceleration or shifting conditions result in excessive wear on the compressor wheel & bearings. Under BOV control, the turbo stays spooled-up while shifting and slowly slows down while decelerating. Subsequently, under BOV control, the turbo is “protected” and therefore lives longer (DDG-BOV Explained. About blow-off valves. See: http://www.thedodgegarage.com/turbo_bov.html

 

When the throttle is closed, the BOV can be set up to release negative air pressure into the atmosphere (‘psshhtt’) or re-circulated it into the intake manifold. According to the literature, the former set-up results in a slightly rich condition in the engine for a brief period of time. This is caused by the AFM readings that is being taken and then sent to the ECU, which in turn adjusts the fuel mixture accordingly. When that metered air is released to the atmosphere, the fuel-air mixture is changed because the back-up pressure has been released and the allocated gas will still be burned. When re-circulated back into the intake manifold, the fuel-air mixture is not changed (Gollum via HybridZ) (See reference below). Some manufacturers provide three styles of BOV units: one which blows to the atmosphere; one which re-cycles; and one which recycles and release a small portion of negative pressure to the atmosphere (‘psshhtt’).

Additional information on which BOV to buy. Some say it is critical, so don’t buy cheap and others take the other extreme. Therefore, check out this thread (Choosing a blow-off valve, what should I be looking for?) See: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=129672

Since I have already made my decision about a BOV, I recommend post #18 for BOV sounds and laughs.

 

References:

 

Blow-off Valve or BOV (Google)

http://www.frozenboost.com/stpg.php?page_id=bov

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=468038

http://forum.ebaumsworld.com/archive/index.php/t-7471.html

http://www.mazdarotary.net/turbo.htm

Mazter Dizazter in HybridZ. 240Z L28ET Project. See: Gollum. (#22) http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=131125&page=2

ktm in HybridZ. BOVs affect on Air Flow Rate. See: Tony D & Others. (#41 etc.) http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=125197&page=3

 

She continues to impress; drive-ability continues to be improved!

Thanks, again, to all members of HZ who have written so many threads that has guided this project.

Enjoying the ride!

 

john

[jkh280zx]

Found this researching my next exhaust system. Being new to this field, my vision was two dimensional; however, this figure changed that to a higher level. Sure that most of you have already seen this but I thought that this was very interesting. Enjoy the read. Check out the reference. I am sure that the text is even more intriguing.

 

 

john

[jkh280zx]

Since the combo parts for my next Exhaust System have not arrived (as yet), I thought I would share here in my MsPs thread information that I have already posted in another HybridZ thread about two key parts of 280zxt engine upgrade: ECU numbers & Cam Spects for L6 Zengines. My focus has been on my ‘83 280zxt, so this is what is provided in this table. However, the references provided below will be more complete. The sources of this information (ECU Numbers) were via Wayne and Blue, both from zcar and jimwolftechnology. Check HybridZ and zcar for additional information regarding compatibility between the year of an ECU and specific Zengines.

 

 

Cam Spects for L6 Engines: Eventually, I will need to evaluate the performance cam within my Zcar; no marks were on this cam as found during the rebuild. Therefore, I am not really sure, if this cam will be the best one for my turbo Zcar, when all of the aftermarket upgrades have been added. This information will be the baseline for this decision. The reference is noted below >>> See: Blue’s Atlantic Z Club Tips – Z Tech Tips as noted below.

 

 

Hope this is helpful!

 

References:

Wayne Monteath via zcar. See: http://www.zcar.com/forums/read/1/702395/702457

Nissan ECU core identification list. See: http://jimwolftechnology.com/wolfpdf/ECU-ID.PDF

Blue via zcar. See: http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/

 

john

[jkh280zx]

 

Left unclear in this thread and the original write-up was the electrical circuit for the push fan (Maradyne) used in my Zcar. As shown in the insert, tips of the hot wires (blue) were exposed and wrapped together; same for the ground wires. The hot wire was then attached to a 12 V continuous-duty solenoid relay using 16 g wires as shown in the diagram below. A toggle switch was incorporated within the circuitry; the switch was placed on the lower part of the dash just to the right of the steering column. During the summer (AR), the use of this fan is a must.

 

 

Thanks for asking...

john

[jkh280zx]

This is one of the very first “re-do” tasks that I wanted to accomplish with this rebuild project. The target for this new system is to improve efficiency of air-flow, lower back pressure and maintain the green status. A few of the supportive articles that were copied and placed in my “to do” notebook is listed here:

 

> “from a performance aspect, the largest diameter, shortest length “high-flow” cat should technically (provide) the lowest back pressure. It is really hard to say which is the best, …. but if it says ‘high-flow’, you should be alright.” (gsxalex via zcar.com)

 

> “The cat that came in the car originally will not affect NOX, because it is only a two-way cat. Upgrading to a newer 3-way, high-flow cat will eliminate almost all NOX. A good 3-way, high-flow cat will make a huge difference in all emissions output.” (RodMoyes via zdriver.com)

 

> “As for 2.5” vs. 3.0”, the “best” turboback exhaust depends on the amount of flow, or horsepower. At 250 hp, 2.5” is fine. Going to 3” at this power level won’t get you much, if anything, other than a louder exhaust note. 300 hp and you’re definitely suboptimal with 2.5”. For 400-450 hp, even 3” is on the small side.” See article cited in jgkurz via HybridZ. See: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=120914

Also: “…avoid crush-bent tubes (use mandrel bends); avoid tight-radius turns (keep it as straight as possible); avoid step changes in diameter; avoid “cheated” radii (cuts that are non-perpendicular); use a high-flow cat; use a straight-thru perforated core muffler…etc.”

 

> “It is true that a 2.5” exhaust will usually create a bigger torque number at a lower rpm than a 3”. It is not the back pressure which gives you the more torque it is the velocity of the gas at that rpm that gives you’re the bigger number.” clint78z via HybridZ (ref. below). Check also: johnc (post #23), SHO-Z (post #32) & pparaska (post #38).

 

> “So how do we get low back pressure behind the turbine?” Street Turbocharging. Mark Warner, P.E. (See: ref. below). “….direct relation exists between horsepower and minimum exhaust diameter (see the graph on page 67).” (Similar information in Figure 11-4 on page 133 in Corky Bell’s Maximum Boost. See: ref. below)

> Which manufacturer for the muffler? Recommendations found in HybridZ are Dynomax Ultraflow (Scottie-GNZ via HybridZ); Borla, Apexi and Magnaflow (many via HybridZ).

 

So, what does all this mean for my Zcar? As you know, the engine (L28ET) in this CA car has recently been rebuilt. The existing downpipe (+ external wastegate) is 2.5" and, currently, is in front of the exhaust system: original CA Cat + TX muffler. At first, I wanted a 3” exhaust system; however, there was a concern about the ease-of-fit of this exhaust diameter within the under carriage of my Zcar, etc. Therefore, the next exhaust system for this ’83 280zxt will be >> all stainless steel (SS) system combo of a CAT [2.5” HF, 3-way, EPA compliant, OBDII, SS Magnaflow #54956] and Muffler [2.5" HF, SS Magnaflow #12246]. These units will be connected to the 2.5” downpipe via TIG welding of 2.5” Mandrel-bend pipe sections. This combination can be obtained for a reasonable cost from Summit; and even better at an AR muffler distributor.

 

Out with the old farts: Notice the black stuffings from the cast iron pipe, well there was more than that after this pipe was cut out of the system. This section had three bends as noted with several crimps (2-3 each bend); tubing was smaller (1/2“at least) than the new 2.5” tubing (Mandrel bend). CAT was original CA (~300K+); muffler had a TX origin (~170K+).

 

 

In with the new parts: The new combination is 2.5” Magnaflow (replace the last number 6 with a 9 for both parts, if you want a 3” system). I kept the invoice & documentation “to change a CAT” to be carried with the registration, etc. No one will believe that that little thing is a Fed CAT. This document stated that a CAT removal is unlawful; a CAT would normally outlast a car and this one possessed a warrantee for 8 years or 80K miles. Written on the document that the reason for removing the original CAT was that the car had a 300K mileage. Signed by Rick from Jim’s Auto Machine Shop. This documentation came with the CAT and this is AR. Regarding my Zcar, this is one of several reasons that I can not move back to CA and get this car CA registered.

 

 

Looks like a straight pipe to me….

 

 

Bend & Cut…

 

Muffler pictured from the back. She sounds great… No 90 degree bends… No crimps… I am pleased… Looking forward to better gas mileage…

 

 

Just a little clarification here: The target for this car is 300HP and a 2.5” exhaust system is considered suboptimal but this system will support enough HP for my dd. Maybe later, I will change it. 3” exhaust system or greater would have resulted in higher HP for a L28ET such as this one.

 

Next, most likely will be a boost controller. The “EMS & CC Injectors” decision is getting closer.

 

References:

Scottie-GNZ via HybridZ. “Dynomax Ultraflo for turbo engines.” See: HybridZ??

83turbo280zx via HybridZ. “New exhaust (pics)” See: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=135359

OR-JO via HybridZ. See:

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php? t=132039

Calgary280ZT via HybridZ. See:

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=132195

Check: TonyD (posts #2 & #3).

MazterDizazter via HybridZ. See: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=129591

Check: TimZ via HybridZ (post #4).

Big-phil via HybridZ. See: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=129256

Clint78z via HybridZ. See: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=98786

Check: johnc via HybridZ (post #23).

Mattyice via HybridZ. See: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=132954

Check: 280ZForce via HybridZ (post #13).

Catalytic Converter via Wikipedia. See: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/catalytic_converter

Cats (Catalytic converters) with Higher Flow. See: http://www.team-integra.net/sections/articles/showArticle.asp?ArticleID=24

Larry Carley. Catalytic Converter. 2007. See: http://www.aa1car.com/library/converter.htm

Larry Carley. OBD II Emissions Testing. 2006. See: http://www.aa1car.com/library/2003/us50326.htm

Larry Carley. OBD II Emissions and Driveability Problems. 2006. See: http://www.aa1car.com/library/ic50234.htm

Unknown. Exhaust System. Euro Exhaust. 3” Killer Stainless Exhaust System. (lost ref.)

My427stang. Has anyone here done any testing on mufflers?via SpeedTalk.See: http://speedtalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=7074

Exhaust design effects on noise. See:http://www.team-integra.net/sections/articles/showarticle.asp?ArticleID=309

Exhaust Science Demystified. See: http://www.superchev.com/technical/engines_drivetrain/exhaust/0505phr_exh/index.html

John Holowczak on Exhaust Design. See: http://www.shotimes.com/sho4exhaust+johnH.html

Beat the Law. The Truth about Going Catless. See: http://images.magnaflow.com/magazine/pdf/catalytic.pdf

Mark Warner, P.E. 2006. Street Turbocharging. Design, Fabrication, Installation, and Tuning of High-Performance Turbocharger Systems. HPBooks.

Corky Bell. 1997. Maximum Boost. Designing, Testing and Installing Turbocharger Systems. Bentley Publishers.

 

Thanks for looking in…

john

 

[jkh280zx]

Since I plan to keep my ride, I am in the process of replacing the sensors within the re-manufactured L28ET. A few months back, the anti-knock sensor, which is located to the right of the dip-stick, was replaced. Recently, both the thermotime switch and the water temperature sensor have been replaced as noted in the Lphoto (diagram from the bible). Since the stock auxillary cooling fan has been removed, the water temperature switch has been plugged as noted in the Rphoto. As previously noted in an above post in this thread, an electric aftermarket fan has been installed for summer days, which is control by the driver. Hope my labels are right…

 

 

Next, the rear bushings were replaced (Nissan OEM parts). Now, the front is polyurethane and the back is Nissan OEM. For clarification, see the above post on whys for 280zx & polyurethane front only. Thanks Jon (jmortensen). Local Nissan let me have just the back set. Good for them. When I replace the TC rods, the back polyurethane set that I have will replace the OEM set, maybe.

 

The rear shocks were exchanged out too (KYB Gas Adjustable). Now the front struts and back shocks are KYB new. Subsequently, my ride is much firmer; needs to be evaluated on the open road tomorrow (it rain this afternoon).

 

Also, the thermostat was replaced with Nissan OEM quality (170deg).

 

Edited: Sorry! A few months back, I PM Jon (jmortensen) about replacing the original stock bushings with polyurethane upgrade. JKH: I have read your "TC rod modification FAQ" article and wondering if urethane bushings (front) and stock rubber bushings (back) is advisable instead of a complete urethane ride. Not sure if it is as simple of haft and haft or specifically TC rod (stock rubber bushings) in the back?? Your thoughts are appreciated. His reply was as follows: The front is the part that takes all the load when you're driving. I'd reuse the TC rubber unless it's literally falling apart. You can buy new ones if you like, but they'll sell you a set of 4 and you only need 2, not like that is the end of the world though. JKH: Since the original front bushings were not good, I requested the polyurethane bushings be put on the front with new KYB GR2s struts... As stated above, the back bushings are now OEM Nissan. So now you know the whole story….

 

john

[jkh280zx]

Hey Guys,

Last Sunday night, I accepted a research position in PA to work with a PI at PSHarrisburg. The focus will be on creating GMOs for biofuel crops. This means that I will be moving in approximately two weeks. I want to thank all those specific individuals (you know who you are) and all of the members of HybridZ who wrote all those threads that guided this re-build. I will store my wheels during the winter; the plan is to purchase a '95 to '98 Pathfinder to use as my dd and the Zcar will be my fun car.

 

You all know that it was not my hands that incorporated all of these upgrades into my Zcar. It has always been my policy to give credit where credit is due so here is my Team in Paragould, AR. I thank them for carring this Zcar project through Stage 1 and sharing all of their knowledge about re-building cars. It has been fun and I have learned much.

 

 

Now to summarize what has been accomplished in Stage 1.

 

 

After becoming situated in Harrisburg, I will continue this road for as we all know the tasks are so many. However, I will not be making too many decisions for my time will be spent in the lab, greenhouse and field, etc. How sweet it is...

 

Continuing to enjoy!!

john

[jkh280zx]

As stated in my last post, I made plans to move to Middletown (PA) to work at PSH. The trip was uneventful; the campus and folks were great. However, finding a place to live, which was close to campus and a garage to park/store my car was not available. Most apartment managers were not pet-friendly. I did not want to commute from neighboring communities and high move-in expenses were not too appealing. My contract was for only 6 months with an extension possible depending on raising research funds. Therefore, when my transition money began to run out, I related to the PI that I was returning to AR.

 

Currently, I am re-established in Paragould, AR. Computer is unpacked and the Internet is alive. This means that I will continue to search for a research position and to plan my Zcar rebuild project. Next Monday (5th), a new pump will be put into the fuel system and a new o-ring and a 11 psi spring for the TiAL BOV.

 

john

[jkh280zx]

Purchased: Walbro 255lph-PH (GSL-392) inline, external fuel pump with universal kit 400-939, which includes all the hardware and mounting brackets needed, plus instructions. This high-pressure fuel pump is capable of supporting up to 500+ HP (at the crank) when supplied with 13.5V and under boosted applications as noted by TRE. According to the literature, Walbro fuel pumps should last between 10-20 years; each pump is fully tested before shipping; and all Walbro fuel pumps are manufactured in the USA. Also, it is highly recommended that a professionally licensed mechanic install your fuel pump. And that malfunctions due to improper installation such, as failure to prime the pump, may void the manufacturer’s warranty.

 

Purchased from: TRE_Performance-Parts via ebay.

Costa Mesa, CA92627

 

This pump can flow 0-115 psi, which will be regulated via AEM 1:1 fuel pressure regulator in my Zcar. This fuel system will consist of the following schematic: Walbro 255 fuel pump (GSL-392) > fuel filter > Peter’s fuel rail with gauge & stock intake manifold > excess fuel will recycle back to the stock tank by the fuel regulator, which is currently set at ~44 psi. Setting will be adjusted again following assembly. Injectors remain turbo-stock OEM Nissan at 265cc, which will be changed out in the near future.Thanks Clifton for information provided via PM correspondence.

 

 

Addition information provided by the manufacturer of Walbro fuel pumps with regards to the spects of the GSL-392…

Source: TI Group Automotive Systems. Aftermarket Division. Cass City, MI48726

 

Flow vs. Pressure Data vs. Amps

 

Source: Lightning Motorsports: spects for Walbro inline pumps

 

Is there an alternative??

 

Trevor via 3si.org. Fuel pumps: Walbro 255lph PH vs. Supra.

…….http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/fuel-pumps-walbro-255lph-hp-vs-supra-130803/

Jeff Lucius. Fuel pump upgrade guide for the Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 and Dodge Stealth R/T twin Turbo.

.....http://www.stealth316.com/2-fuelpumpguide.htm

 

Remember that the Walbro 341 is an in-tank fuel pump….

 

WizardBlack via HybridZ. “For a fuel pump, it all depends on what kind of power you expect to make. A general rule of thumb is less than two horsepower per litre-per-hour of pump. This is assuming forced induction. A common in-tank fuel pump upgrade (for modern cars) is the Walbro GSS342 (~$110) that flows 255 lph and is expected to be maxed out at 500 whp. There is an external (or in-line) version of it you can get (GSS347 IIRC). One step nicer than that is the Bosch 044 pump (~$175) that flows about 300 lph and can support 500+. The Aeromotive A1000, most Welden pumps, etc. are extremely loud and flow a lot but are very expensive. Whatever you do, be sure to insulate your mount point for those with a good chunk of rubber.”

……..http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=136618

 

Is it really noisy??? When mine is installed (Jan. 5th), I will report… Until then, here are opinions of several.

 

Nater via VWvortex Forums. “If you have a 2.5" or 3" exhaust with no cat or no resonator, it's DEF not "loud"...

Like others have said, you can hear it from outside the car but it's just another noise that makes it sound mean IMO.

From the inside, again as stated...exhaust and music drown it out.

If you are one (like me) to just drive around listening to the sweet sound of your turbo/motor/exhaust then this won't be an issue.”

.therealvrt via VWvortex Forums. “go to home depot and by their cheap rubber connector (some people use this instead of silicone on intercooler pipes) and cut them and wrap one around the pump. You won't even hear it

i had mine wrapped for about 4 years.”

.therealvrt via VWvortex Forums. “i used 2 around mine and bought new stainless clamps

total cost about $10 CDN.”

…….http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3085979&postid=36139847

 

Clifton via HybridZ & PM. Re: Fuel Pump, a Walbro for a L28ET!!! With the foam sock on the pump, I don't find it to be too noisy. At least not compared to the Paxton pump I was running:

......http://forums.hybridz.org/private.php?do=showpm&pmid=492447

 

Literature: HybridZ & others.

 

slownrusty via HybridZ. My Turbo Fuel Pump Upgrade - Pics & Write Up:

……..http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=89558

cygnusx1 via HybridZ. Fuel Pump Noise:

…….http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=142226

jgkurz via HybridZ. EFI Fuel Pump Flow Analysis:

…….http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=922632

cws1807 via HybridZ. Walbro GSL392 possibly bad:

…….http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=140833

Calgary280ZT via HybridZ.Walbro fuel pump...advice on which model to buy:

…….http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=135476

fuel-plumps.net. Basic Fuel Pump Concepts:

.....http://www.fuel-pumps.net/fuelpumpsfaq3.html

Monday (5th) the pump will be installed and photos will follow.

john

[jkh280zx]

This GSL-392 pump was installed in my ‘83 280zxt today (Jan. 5th). Purchased this item from TRE_Performance-Parts via ebay. The instructions were good and the universal kit 400-939 provided the necessary parts, which included an “isolator sleeve”. This was not seen in the promo for this pump; excellent addition, which meant that my trip to Lowes was in vain. As indicated below, both the original sleeve and this new one were used. Rick at The Shop installed this pump. The stock pump and fuel damper were located in the back/passenger side just up from the fuel tank. See: Blue’s reference below.

 

Old stock pump (95 psi) with 300K miles of operation and road conditions…

 

Note: the stock sleeve was left within the assemble and the old dog was removed.

 

Old vs New…

 

Note: the L-shaped fitting (banjo-hosebar) on the old pump while the universal kit had a straight fitting (hosebar). Subsequently, a longer high-pressure tubing (Dayco fuel injection hose) was needed, purchased and assembled.

 

 

I forgot to photograph the installed and functional Walbro pump. However, driving in all gears, no can hear…. Both sleeves were used. From the previous post, several after-market modifications will assist in drowning out the noise from the pump, if it is there….

 

Next, I did photograph the fuel damper, which was almost eliminated. However, it remains. It was located approximately 6” inline up from the pump. Might replace it down the road.

 

 

Literature for the fuel damper & general fuel system articles…

 

afbrian13 via HybridZ: Fuel Damper.

…….http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=638187

jayzrocket via HybridZ: Fuel Damper?

…….http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=139382

nismofan1 via zcar.com: FPR, fuel rail, and fuel damper questions.

…….http://www.zcar.com/forums/read/3/1884656

pedroosan via my350Z.com: *Update* on engine knocking noise and fuel damper TSB.

……...http://my350z.com/forum/maintenance-and-repair/288412-update-on-engine-knocking-noise-and-fuel-damper-tsb.html

FUEL RAIL DAMPER (WO/1999/061783)

…….http://www.wipo.int/pctdb/en/wo.jsp?wo=1999061783

The 280z bible via Blue’s website: The Electronic Fuel Injection Notebook.

…….http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/efisystem/280zfuelinjectionbook.pdf

Toyota Motor Sales. Overview of the Fuel Delivery System.

…….http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h22.pdf

 

john

[jkh280zx]

A major issue has existed since the new exhaust system has been installed. Up to that time, I had not pushed my Zcar for a long time. However, afterwards, I have heard “hissing” sounds during acceleration coming from the engine bay. One day and from a slight rolling start (first gear), I pushed the petal-to-the-metal. At the start, she bounced four times (GT IVs) and then off we went under WOT conditions; major “hissing” was heard from under the hood; it was much louder than what I had hear before; and then shifting into second resulted in another major “hissing” sound. Well, with regards to the BOV, the second noise is normal but not the first. At that time, I suspected the BOV; more specifically, the o-ring and/or the 7 psi spring. A new o-ring and an 11 psi spring were purchased from Lightning Motorsports (Grand Prairie, TX).

 

Then I sent a message to Clifton via PM about the Walbro pump that he had purchased; eventually, the conversation went to the “hissing” noise from the engine bay. Clifton pointed out that POVs eventually will start to leak; he took the POV off of his Z31 with a pipe wrench and welded a bead around it. Well, the removal of POV and the installation of a Walbro pump became a dual purpose for my Zcar’s visit to The Shop last Monday (5th). The series of photos illustrate the procedure that Rick took to take off the POV from the stock turbo intake manifold of this L28ET (‘83 280zxt).

 

The POV valve itself was taken off by hand; the spring caught Rick’s thumb. Ouch! The first photo shows the valve in the background of the former EGR valve attachment and the remaining shell of the POV in the foreground. Photo2 shows what a hammer and a cold chisel will do to this shell (The POV is in the foreground in this photo). Note: Both of the vacuum lines to the brake booster (L) and to the AEM 1:1 adjustable fuel pressure regulator ® were removed.

 

Next, the loose ends of the shell’s base were bent toward the center of the remnant POV (Photo3). This exposed the bolt base of the POV, which was then removed with a pipe wrench as shown here (Photo4).

 

Next, the opened hole in the intake manifold was revealed (Photo5) and then it was closed with a plug (Photo 6). The vacuum lines to the brake booster (L) and the adjustable fuel pressure regulator ® were returned to their respective positions (Photo6).

 

How sweet it is!!!

Results: no “hissssing” from under the hood. Next day, on a county road, she passed the test. In third gear, I accelerated but not under WOT conditions; the major sound was the turbo pumping air with its characteristic sound. No need to change anything with the BOV; o-ring and 11 psi spring will be stored. Thanks again Clifton, the problem solved. Someday, an after-market intake manifold will be installed; this should help to clean up the engine bay some more and to increase the inner diameter of the runners.

 

Now, those 18-wheelers will not interfere with interstate driving….

No literature needed..…

She is as she is…

 

john

[jkh280zx]

http://video.google.com/videosearch?hl=en&q=External+Wastegate&um=1&ie=UTF-8&sa=X&oi=video_result_group&resnum=7&ct=title#

 

Yesterday, on the second test-run to determine if the POV was truly fixed, I accelerated in third gear to boost conditions and the results were very interesting; no “hissing†sound but a major sound of “angry bees†or “chainsaw†thunder was evident. In fourth gear and under boost conditions, again the same sound. A new problem or is this normal… Came home and searched within HZ’s Google and found several bits of information that help me understand the functionality of what I had heard, a EWG for the first time. The following references were very informative.

 

WASTE GATE Definition: A trap door-like device on the exhaust side of a turbocharger that limits the amount of boost a turbo can produce. The waste gate consists of a spring-loaded diaphragm. A vacuum hose connects the diaphragm to the intake manifold. When boost pressure starts to exceed the rating of the waste gate, the diaphragm pulls open a bypass flap in the turbo housing. This allows some of the exhaust to go around the turbo impeller which slows it down. Source: unknown.

 

A wastegate is a valve that diverts exhaust gases away from the turbine wheel in a turbocharged engine system. Diversion of exhaust gases regulates the turbine speed, which in turn regulates the rotating speed of the compressor. The primary function of the wastegate is to regulate the maximum boost pressure in turbocharger systems, to protect the engine and the turbocharger. Source: Wikipedia.

 

Wastegate sizing: One of the more popular misconceptions about wastegate sizing is; the more powerful the engine, the bigger the wastegate is needed. This guide indicates the right size of wastegate:[1]

• big turbo/low boost = bigger wastegate
  
• big turbo/high boost = smaller wastegate
  
• small turbo/high boost = smaller wastegate
  
• small turbo/low boost = bigger wastegate

Source: Wastegate. Wikipedia & [1]Turbosmart Direct.com.

Also: Nigel via HybridZ: Wastegate Sizing. See: Post #73

……... http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=132994&page=4

And: http://forums.performancecar.co.nz/v...?f=37&p=455903

 

Thumper via HybridZ: External wastegate open or re-route into exhaust.

…….http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=105132

 

From this thread, it became evident that the sound of “angry bees†was the result of the EWG on my Zcar that runs open (Photo1) and was talking to me. HZ members using a EWG to control boost pressure have different set-ups/likes, which is one’s preference for sound and/or performance. Since efficiency is my motivator behind this rebuild, I most likely will follow Brad-ManQ45’s suggestion (post5); however, this modification is down-the-road. Several other members have done this mod as well. Also, the EWG shown here (Photo1) has the e-bay provider’s stock spring (7 psi) within it, I think. Therefore, as thehelix112 indicated, an 11 psi spring might be better for my Zcar and my preference. As indicated in Photo1, the dump pipe shown here is shorter in comparison to some of the set-ups seen in HZ; according to Scottie-GNZ the shorter, the louder the sound when one runs the EWG open. “However, it should only be dumping at full boost when the w/g is diverting exhaust from the turbine housing/wheel. If it is loud any other time, then there is something wrong with it.†Based on what Clifton stated via PM, the set-up (IC) on my Zcar should be good to at least 12 psi. So a new spring (~10 psi) is in the future for this zx as well as a pressure regulator.

See: TiAL spring pressure chart below.

 

 

 

shauno via HybridZ: External wastegate and boost controller adjusting.

……..http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=92851

 

Post #2 (yo2001) in this thread, indicates the following: “the WG should stay close(d) until it get close to the peak boost. You want it to hold close(d) as long as possible without spiking the boost. If you have a weak spring in a WG like 4.5psi spring, it can get blown open under boost.â€

 

NASIOC Technical: Internal or External Wastegate?

………http://forms.nasioc.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-59271.html

Boostup! I think an external wastegate is better no matter what boost level you plan to run, good boost control is always desirable. It's just like the head lights of a car. It doesn't matter if you are driving at 200 mph or 20 mph, the brighter they are the better you see the road. If you are on a budget, then it's a different story. 10-23-2000, 05:57 PM

 

Tim Prudence. The main benefit of running an external wastegate is to give waste gases there own flow path. They meet up with main exhaust further downstream so there isn't a huge amount of turbulence just behind the turbo (which deprives the turbo of power). 10-23-2000, 06:22 PM

 

Boostup! Tim, what does an aftermarket boost controller control? Yes! the wastegate, internal or external. How else can you control boost if not via a wastegate? Am I missing something here? All an aftermarket boost controller does is (to) vary the amount of vacuum that the wastegate diaphragm sees, therefore giving you boost control.

 

And for your information, you can still make the wastegate gases meet up further down stream of the exhaust (to reduce turbulence) for a turbocharger with an internal wastegate setup. You just have to make a new flange where the turbo meets the downpipe. The new flange will have two holes with two pipes connected to them, one being the main exhaust pipe and the other for the wastegate. 10-23-2000, 06:54 PM

 

Boostup! For a high compression engine, 10 psi is not that low actually. Most of the turbo ej25 guys here run around the 10 psi range +/- several psi. I think 5 to 6 psi would generally be agreed upon as low boost. 10-23-2000, 07:24 PM

 

Shik. Boostup, you are correct in saying all an aftermarket boost controller does is varies the amount of vacuum (boost) a wastegate sees. That's exactly the point in getting one! With an EBC or even a good MBC like the Hallman or Joe P controllers, they do not let the wastegate see any boost until the actual boost level has been met at the controller, then the controller lets the wastegate see it. If you are simply relying on the wastegate to control your boost, the wastegate is ALWAYS having boost trying to push it open, and in some cases, it BEGINS to open before the actual boost setting is met, resulting in slow, lagging spool up time. Not to mention the fact that you have no back-up if the wastegate should ever fail. You should always use a good boost controller. 10-24-2000, 04:01 AM

 

 

The wastegate set-up on my Zcar (Photos 1&2) is as follows: a 2.5†down-pipe with a short dump pipe to a TiAL 38mm wastegate. The EWG was originally set-up to run open and still runs open at this time (Photo1).

 

 

These photos also bring to mind several questions related to efficiency of a EWG design when the wastegate assemble is attached to the down-pipe; location/length of the dump pipe, its angle and size.

 

jgkurz via HybridZ: Wastegate pipe length???

………..http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=773902

 

And, other than HP goals, how does this basic design described above compare with the EWG being attached to the exhaust manifold? 240hoke published an excellent write-up of how to attach a EWG to a turbo exhaust manifold. (See reference below) Also: slownrusty showed another way by using an adapter. (See reference below) & kcambron other examples by HZ members. (See reference below)

 

Anyone seen a publication(s) that discusses how one can compare the efficiency of these two methods (EWG associated with a DP or an EM) to control boost pressure in a L28ET? (Maybe below, my books are still packed in Jonesboro, AR).

 

 

Literature.

 

240hoke via HybridZ: TiAL External Gate Install on OEM Manifold *PICS*

…….http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=108785

slownrusty via HybridZ: Want To Run An Ext. Wastegate. This Is A Neat Solution? Pics

…….http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=685139

kcambron via HybridZ: Pictures of waste gate mockup.

……. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=976801

shauno via HybridZ: External wastegate with muffler?

……..http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=608537

ZR8ED via HybridZ: Stock wastegate hybrid turbo no more boost.

…….http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=104816

Syclone Typhoon Archives: External Wastegate.

…….http://www.sytyarchives.com/howto/viewarticle.php?article_name=external_wastegate.php&dir=engine

NASIOC Technical: Internal or External Wastegate?

………http://forms.nasioc.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-59271.html

HKS EVC I Instructions – External Wastegate

………http://www.hksusa.com/info/download.asp?id=1740#

 

Mark Warner, P.E. 2006. Street Turbocharging. Design, Fabrication, Installation, and Tuning of High-Performance Turbocharger Systems. HPBooks.

Corky Bell. 1997. Maximum Boost. Designing, Testing and Installing Turbocharger Systems. Bentley Publishers.

 

Thanks for stopping by…

john

 

[jkh280zx]

Last Thursday, my 280zxt went in for a body make-over. She will come home with a burgundy covering and black interior. I thank Chris (ckelly78z) and those who have provided the black interior parts. Afterwards, I will be selling the tan/brown interior parts that have been taken out of my Zcar. This time, I have purchased a red ‘93 Amigo as my dd and my fishing ride (sure is fun to just get up and go).

 

Yesterday, I went to see the patient; a few photos taken. She was gutted as the body doc stated.

 

 

 

 

Well the task is progressing nicely. I continue to buy new weather strip pieces.

Currently, I have purchased the following: t-top weather strips (MSA), window/t-top

strips, weather gaskets for the rear lights, gold emblems from MSA, BD and ebay, and

3 of 4 strips that are lined with the top and bottom windshield (Nissan) and many of

the rubber stoppers around the doors, hood and hatch that keep the rattles down. Will

need the door weather strips and the clips that aid in aligning the top portion of the

windshield with its respective parts. The latter will be more difficult. Purchased the

airdam that is available in MSA’s spring sale. Copied VinhZXT’s statement about

aligning the glass by using the glass regulator that is inside the door (HZ via Weather

Stripping). The main leak in my Zcar came from the back part of the glass door as it

aligned itself with the t-top rubber strip and the t-top seal door strip. Thanks VinhZXT.

I have been getting a lot of flack from the guys at The Shop because I am ordering

similar body-side molding for my Zcar; however, I have not found the style that I like

as yet.

 

Well, I am pleased with the work being done by the boss man. Will keep you informed.

By the way the engine bay was not touched. Thank goodness.

 

 

Enjoying my Amigo now. She will be a big help in organizing my fishing trips when

they become more numerous.

 

Thanks for stopping by.

 

john

 

Edited April 10, 2009 by jkh280zx
sp!

[jkh280zx]

The last update showed my Zcar being gutted with the target to completely refresh the interior (black) and a new coat-of-paint (dark maroon). First, the body work was done. There were several major problems: area between the windshield and t-top, two underneath “cancer†holes; and the left-front fender area (backing out of narrow garage). Of course, small areas of body surface rust and joint regions between the hood and right-vent section. From what I have read in HybridZ, these are common spots for the 280zx. These areas were addressed as indicated by the pictures below.

 

When I saw this damage, I was sick. I doubted my decision to repair the engine first; however, James and Rick stated that they rather be the first step in car restoration and not have to worry so much about working around a new coat-of-paint.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Next, a new coat of paint. I went to O’Reilly’s several times to find the color for the ‘second generation’ of 300K miles. OR has many albums of paint options for domestic and foreign cars. Finally, in the Nissan 2003 book, PPG ‘Deltron 5733’ was selected; the color was very dark with reflections of gold maroon.

 

 

This looked great when only the garage lights were on; however, when the garage door was opened, “Ouch!â€

 

 

The paint selected was PPG ‘Deltron 5733’, which was called ‘Burnt Cherry Burgundy’ but the clip showed a very dark maroon color. The whys for the pink color are too numerous to elaborate. However, if you read Bob Story’s Automotive Paint FAQs and others, then you will know some of them. (References are given at the end.) One of the problems was that the car was painted with a (70 ±10) reducer during the middle of the summer (95◦+); the correct curing time is critical with a new coat-of-paint, especially with a metallic-pearl composite. After discussions with the painter and OR, my Zcar was moved and moved twice more. Don’t ask me why; however, the 4th move was good.

 

And I moved too. My residence is now in Denison (TX) and I am pleased to be working at Grayson County College (teaching biology). My Zcar is still in Paragould (AR) with a new coat-of-paint (PPG ‘Deltron D5733’) purchased at OR’s in Jonesboro (AR). The black interior has been incorporated into the car and “many thanks†goes to Chris (ckelly78z) who provided nearly all of these parts and many back-up parts that I know will be needed down the road. Currently, Chris has another 1982 280zx in ‘parts for sale’ (HZ). AND an on-going “many thanks†goes to Rick and company (Jim’s Auto & Machine Shop) for installing the black interior and other assorted parts to be noted later.

 

Hope you’ll have a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year!!

Thanks for looking in!

john

 

Reference:

Bob Story’s Automotive Paint Frequently-Asked Questions. digitalweb.net

Drew Hardin. Hot Rod’s Ultimate Guide to Paint & Body – Part 1. http://www.hotrod.com/howto/hdrp_0605_paint_body_1/index.html

Drew Hardin. Ultimate Paint and Body Guide Part 7 – Under The Gun. http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/body/hrdp_0611_car_paint_techniques/index.html

[jkh280zx]

These next figures supported the decision-makers, who have recently taken the lead in the refreshment of my Zcar (12/23/09). The following diagrams were obtained from Sam (Parts Manager) at Nissan (Jonesboro, AR). Sam was a great help; he sourced the needed parts within Nissan Incorporation (CA) and the inventories of individual dealerships. He also possesses knowledge about Zcar aftermarket parts; a great source over-and-above MSA and BD.

 

As stated, the windshield was taken out to look for areas that needed attention. One corner spot had only slight surface rust and the top area of the windshield was bad as indicated by previous post. So, the necessary parts to secure a new windshield (Gene’s in Paragould, AR) were purchased from Nissan (Jonesboro) as noted in the first photo (see below); the original side pieces are to be re-used after being painted black. The glass windshield, door glass plates and the 3/4 windows will be tinted after the interior and other upgrades have been installed. All chrome pieces and bumpers on the car will be painted black.

 

As noted previously, new rubber weather seals for the t-tops were purchased from MSA; however, the door rubber seals could not be found (see below). Finally, this and other needed parts were purchased from ckelly78z. Also, the chrome-felt clip-ons (80820 & 21) that fit on the outside of the door next to the glass window were OEM replaced (MSA). One inventory part was purchased and the other is coming from Japan (soon, right!). Water channeling in this area is critical.

 

The next diagram (seen below) denotes many major parts that were not needed; however, many small rubber parts in these areas were purchase from MSA and aftermarket (ebay). The rubber seal set, which secures the back tail lights were purchased from MSA.

 

As the next photo illustrates, I was interested in a front air dam (type2 for 280zx). One was purchased from MSA and put in 'near' place as shown below. I have read many threads about improving wind channeling with air dams, etc. After reading the instructions, I felt that the addition of this part would require modification and, therefore, add more vulnerability to the front end; it was not installed. However, I still like the look and the advantages air dams bring to the performance of a Zcar. So, time will tell.

 

 

 

The instructions for air dam installation are given below.

 

PYW: Allocating out the component parts for both 5733 & D5733 were done by pouring each stock paint from their corresponding source to the customer’s product can; the latter was placed on an analytical balance. This procedure is subjected to errors by the individual mixing the 6 oz sample & final paint combination. The color and accumulative amount of each component part is given in the table below for both 5733 & D5733. The first selected color was Deltron 5733 (Nissan 2003), which was noted as 'burnt cherry burgundy' according to the clip (chip). This color was dark maroon within the garage without sunlight; when the garage door was opened the color turned to dark pink as shown in the previous post.

 

Be sure you talk to the head man within the paint department and be sure you ask for a 6 oz sample of your color; then have your paint guy spray a metal surface to verify the color that you have chosen. It should be viewed out in the direct sunlight before you give your final OK. Do not just look at the paint on the lid can or a stick dunked into the paint can. Notice that the D component for Deltron D5733 (Nissan 2004) is high-lighted in yellow; this component represents a darker flop to the final paint code that was selected. The second attempt to have my Zcar painted has been accomplished as noted in the last two photos.

 

Clean-up of the engine bay, intercooler and its corresponding tubing by Rick (Jim's Auto & Machine Shop).

 

Current status: progress is being made. I am pleased; have to be patient; up-grades require time and cost money, etc.

 

Next, the wheels will be power-coated black; bumpers have already been painted black; original bucket seats have been refitted with black leather; OEM black steering wheel has been purchased (ckelly78z); the floor mats are brown (sorry!) [they were purchased new several years back from MSA]. These floor mats will be changed-out over time. Interested in MSA’s black, leather, door-side panels. By the way, a new alarm system has been purchased and has been installed; the AC has been removed. New decisions: intake-manifold will be changed-out with an aftermarket product; plug&play by Spectre eMS-Pro is at the top of the list for a new ECU AND ~440 cc spark plugs will be purchased. Any other suggestions that I have over looked?

 

Spring break is coming soon; the hemp might be traveling to Paragould (AR). If nothing else, I will go for a drive in my refreshed car as shown above in the parking lot located next door to Rick's home. She is in a good place.

 

Progress!! Thanks for dropping by!

john

 

Edited February 6, 2010 by jkh280zx
grammar & spelling

[jkh280zx]

PYW: Update on Nissan D5733 & Interior

 

Went up to Paragould (AR) and took these pictures. Previous post showed the new coat before wet sanding and polishing. Current Status: I am pleased. All bumpers and chrome pieces have been power coated (black). The wheels will be power coated black with gold painted grooves. The valve cover will also be power coated black with silver letters; a pattern to match the next intake manifold (hint! hint!). New OEM emblems will be returned to their respective locations.

 

A picture is worth a thousand words; something is missing. Decided that the AC should be returned to this Zcar; TX is too hot. The IC & piping system will be acid washed and returned. Next post involves the stock intake manifold.

 

The dash was not spray painted; it was perfect. Thanks ckelly78z. Thanks also to Rick (The Shop) who is taking the lead for the final stages of this refreshment project. She is in a good place.

 

Thanks for stopping by.

jkh280zx

Edited August 18, 2010 by jkh280zx

[nismo_zxt]

Nice projet JKH,

Keep going, you did a nice work.

[jkh280zx]

Modification of a stock 83’ IM or to an after-market IM or to an eBay’s premium IM????

 

In preparation for the next intake manifold (IM) for my Zcar, I have been accumulating pictures, HZ threads and literature in my “wish notebook†to aid in the decision-making process. The following information summarizes just part of this journey. The picture below shows the current status of the existing stock ’83 turbo IM, except the original POV has been removed.

 

Modification of a stock IM: In his HZ thread, Challenger has provided visual information that denotes the obstructions in a stock IM; has shown how to modify the stock intake manifold for Zs; MONZTER has demonstrated increased air flow through a modified stock IM (See: refs below pictures). After porting the inlets to IM plenum/runners, several HZ members have focused on the modification of the inner surface of IM (plenum & runners) (MONZTER); however, the internal diameter of the runners remains the most critical limiting factor to air flow (See: BRAAP & others below).

 

Challenger via. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=134422

 

With a customized stock IM, which provides an increased air flow, elevated HP has been noted.

MONZTER via. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?showtopic=66748 (post #3)

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=145256

 

Other interesting modifications & literature in regards to modification of stock IMs:

Blue via. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/intake/zintake/index.html

http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/engine.htm

z boi via. Which intake manifold has bigger runners?

http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/28482-which-intake-manifold-has-bigger-runners/page__p__511129__hl__which%20intake%20manifold% 20has%20bigger%20runners fromsearch__1entry511129

KTM-EXC via. Porting Intake Manifold.

http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/47991-porting-intake-manifold/page__p__413844__hl__intake%20manifold%20__fromsearch__1entry413844

BRAAP via.“The stock EFI L-28 intake manifold port runners have only 53% the area of the L-28 intake valve!†http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/54034-big-throttle-bodies-why/page__p__487857__hl__intake%20manifold%20__fromsearch__1entry487857

 

As noted via Blue in the above atlanticz references, “1 fast Z of BMC demonstrated that intake manifolds from maxima LD28 motors have larger runners and mouth. The LD28 runner diameter is 35mm (same as the Z head and Z carb manifold runner). The LD28 runners are longer too. They just need a TB plate and injectors bungs attachedâ€. (Below L). Also note that “BMC makes custom intakes for Zsâ€. (Below R)

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=133795

 

 

As originally found in ZSelect.com, a high-flow, custom intake manifold was available via Lonewolf Performance.

 

 

ComicArtist via http://www.zcar.com/forums/885094/lone-wolf-intake

 

http://www.lonewolfperformance.com/nissan.htm

 

Next, custom-made intake manifolds have been made via HZ members.

VinhZXT via. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=137723

Mayolives via. Which Intake Manifold Should I Use? (post # 6 Speeder)

http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?showtopic=25602

Philip1 via. Show Off Your Engine Bay! Pics Wanted, L-series Rate Topic

http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?showtopic=73648 (post # 9 Stagefummer11)

RTz via. Scratchbuilt L6 EFI Intake Manifold

http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?showtopic=51825

PrOxLaMuS via. DIY ITB turbo intake manifold

http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/61956-diy-itb-turbo-intake-manifold/

MONZTER via. Turbo Intake Plenum

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=127863&page=14

 

Wiki via. Manifold (automotive).

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Manifold_(automotive)

howstuffworks via. How do tuned intake runners work on your car?

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question517.htm/printable

team-integra via. Intake Manifold Tech: Runner Size Calculations (Page 1)

http://www.team-integra.net/sections/articles/showArticle.asp?ArticleID=466

team-integra via. Intake Manifold Tech: Runner Size Calculations (Page 2)

http://www.team-integra.net/sections/articles/showArticle.asp?ArticleID=471

 

Out with the not so old OEM IM with a fuel rail + gage combo and 265 cc injectors:

 

 

In with the LoneWolf intake manifold with a fuel rail + gage combo, 300 cc Bosch injectors and the 60 mm TB that was on the OEM IM above:

 

 

Thanks Paul for assimilating all critical information on the OEM ’83 IM and options; thanks to all HZ posters for their creativity in this area too.

 

Follow-up, the critical dimensions of the LW IM that was purchased in comparison to the original OEM IM, etc.

 

Thereafter, will post plans for Stage 1 and, then, Stage 2 (Nistune and 550 cc RC injectors). Thanks John for your input; it is difficult for a lay person to make critical decision regarding “which is best for my Zcarâ€. The plan is to drive my Zcar for several months before Stage 2; I have already purchased everything except a boost controller and the RC injectors for this latter stage. I will need to research a tuning shop down in this area.

 

Beginning to realize how much of refreshment she has under gone since this thread began.

 

Thanks for stopping by.

jkh280zx

Edited December 21, 2010 by jkh280zx