jhm Posted October 4, 2018 Share Posted October 4, 2018 Yes, it feeds directly into a coolant passage and will leak coolant when you remove it. As long as the engine is not running, the coolant will not be under pressure; so it's easy to plug temporarily while you're replacing the sender. You said "attach the yellow hose". I think you meant to say yellow wire? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pochie45566 Posted October 4, 2018 Author Share Posted October 4, 2018 9 minutes ago, jhm said: Yes, it feeds directly into a coolant passage and will leak coolant when you remove it. As long as the engine is not running, the coolant will not be under pressure; so it's easy to plug temporarily while you're replacing the sender. You said "attach the yellow hose". I think you meant to say yellow wire? Yes, I meant yellow wire. Ill detach that yellow wire from the broken off piece of the sender so that I can get the retaining nut off, pop a new sender in with the retaining nut, then re attach that yellow wire to the end of the new sender. It for some reason feels like that yellow wire doesn’t want to detach from the broken off part of the sender but im sure it’ll come off. I dont have too be to careful with the broken pieces. I knew I came to the right place for great help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhm Posted October 4, 2018 Share Posted October 4, 2018 Unless a previous owner boogered it up, the wire should connect/disconnect via a clip-on electrical connector.....should be a bullet connector, but I guess it could be a blade connector. If it's not, do it right and crimp on the correct connector for the new sending unit. Hopefully the new parts will fix your issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pochie45566 Posted October 6, 2018 Author Share Posted October 6, 2018 Hi guys, got the new sender in, went in with no problems. The old one snapped in half while I was taking it out so I’m pretty sure it was dead. Still though the temp gauge isn’t working. Somewhere I read you can test the wiring back to the gauge by touching that yellow wire to ground and the gauge should read max. Is this correct? Probably a good next step. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhm Posted October 6, 2018 Share Posted October 6, 2018 Did you happen to read the electrical chapter of the FSM, that I included in my earlier post? There's a section devoted to troubleshooting problems with all the gauges, including the temp gauge (page BE-46). The test you asked about would only work if all the wiring between the sender and the gauge is intact and functional. The most thorough way to troubleshoot an electrical circuit is to start at one end and systematically analyze each component of that circuit from end to end. The temp gauge circuit is defined on page BE-34. You may find that there are multiple issues within the circuit, but you'd never discover that if you were taking a haphazard approach. Not trying to be a dick here....really. But I'd recommend taking a more logical, systematic approach to troubleshooting problems; otherwise you're going to waste a lot of time and money. My two cents FWIW... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pochie45566 Posted October 7, 2018 Author Share Posted October 7, 2018 Issue fixed, the connector on the yellow wire had also built up a good bit of corrosion. Sprayed some contact cleaning spray in there and plugged it in and it works. Thanks guys for sll the help. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhm Posted October 8, 2018 Share Posted October 8, 2018 Yes, good clean connections on all your electrical connectors is essential....usually the first step one would take when troubleshooting an issue. Glad you got it sorted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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