anubis512 Posted February 1, 2020 Share Posted February 1, 2020 I'm in the process of replacing my inner and outer tie rods on my 280z. Unfortunately the FSM isn't super helpful in this regard and there isn't a ton of useful videos or threads I can find dealing with the OEM/original inner tie rods. The first video is from a youtube video I found. In his video, the jam/lock nut appears to be tight against the center ring that has indents. The second pic, from my car, isn't quite the same. Is my inner tie rod just not fully threaded on the rack, or has my inner tie rod just not be tight for all this time? Based off the different thread sizes it seems like the lock nut is snug. Secondly, what the hell do you do with this middle ring that looks like it's spot welded in place. I saw in some threads they mentioned "peeling back" those spots but I don't see how to do that. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhm Posted February 2, 2020 Share Posted February 2, 2020 The spot weld is from the factory. It enables you to use a spanner wrench, if necessary, on the inner socket assembly. The jam nut should be tightened when assembled. It appears to be tight in the picture you provided. If you're having trouble removing the inner socket assembly, it's possible that the threads are damaged. They're a very fine thread size, and easy to damage if not careful. What specific problem are you having, or are you just asking questions regarding the specific assembly of the rack? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anubis512 Posted February 2, 2020 Author Share Posted February 2, 2020 (edited) I believe both ends of the rack are standard threads, correct? And the left inner tie rod socket (that connects the outer tie rod) is the only thing reverse threaded, which is why you can use two right inner tie rods. Therefore to loosen the jam nut off the inner tie rod, you want to turn it clockwise on both sides correct? Then the inner tie rod would be loosened counter clockwise per usual. The jam nut just isn't budging at all. The rack threads appear fine but it's not moving anywhere. I've been soaking it in penetrant and will apply heat next. Edited February 2, 2020 by anubis512 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caperix Posted February 2, 2020 Share Posted February 2, 2020 The jam nuts on my car were extremely tight as well. I ended up jacking up the car by the wrench to get it to break loose. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anubis512 Posted February 2, 2020 Author Share Posted February 2, 2020 Yikes haha. The jam nuts are regular threads thought right? And you'd want to turn it clockwise to thread it deeper on the rack and loosen off the inner tie rod? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhm Posted February 2, 2020 Share Posted February 2, 2020 Yes, the threads are normal right-hand threads on both sides of the car (and I believe that's true for all years.) So yes, you'd want to turn it clockwise (from your perspective on the "outside" of the car), to turn it deeper onto the steering rack, and thus loosening it from the inner socket assembly. If you don't have a spanner wrench that fits the inner socket, you can use a large open-end (or adjustable) wrench on the splined rack itself. You can actually verify a thread's direction by visual inspection....check to see which direction the thread is spiraling, and that will tell you if it's left-hand or right-hand threads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anubis512 Posted February 3, 2020 Author Share Posted February 3, 2020 Thanks a lot guys. To follow up, I made a bigger cheater pipe for my wrench and was able to break the jam nuts and then the inner tie rods came out super easily. Thanks again! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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