VQ37HR into G35?

[mbp123]

I have a G35 with nothing wrong with it except a bad motor which sucked water into the intake, along with a G37 that was t-boned driverside door and totaled but everything else is OK and engine is immaculate. I also have both sets of keys. I wanted to swap the VQ37 into the G35 and figured it would work fine with a few things here or there...given how similar they are.

 

I've never done a swap so I hired a mechanic I know to help me out and I'm learning as much as I can.
I've thought about selling the VQ37 and buying a VQ35HR to put in just to make things simpler, although I'd rather use the VQ37 - not just for the small power boost but because I know its history due to personally knowing the individual I got both cars from for a very long time.
 

Considering I have both donor cars which are bone stock, is it really that much more aggrivation if I want to go for the VQ37 or are we talking an extra full day or two of swapping parts over and plugging them in, getting the ECU to work w the 37 engine, and maybe a little wire splicing?

Edited April 4, 2020 by mbp123

[260DET]

All I 'knoiw' is some of the 350Z forum's discussions, apparently inter engine swaps are problematical to say the least. Might be best to go to that forum if nothing turns up here.

[Northstarninja]

I've been looking into this as well. The difficulty comes to the wiring, You have to take the ALL wiring harness and all electronics from the donor car and splice/fab one for the g35 chassis.

Basically if you don"t the NATS system will lock the car out. The NATS can be bypassed by sending out your ecu to have it deleted. A few places do this, it's usually about $350.

 

Also the g35 transmission doesn't bolt up to a Vq35 HR or Vq37 VHR  so you'll need that also.  Most people also ditch the internal clutch mechanism for an external- they're far more reliable especially with aftermarket clutches. 

 

To be honest, it's likely easier to sell the VQ37 VHR and get a vqde short block. freshen it up with new bearings, ARP hardware for the crank and rods and get a set of aftermarket forged pistons.  You'll have a solid short block and can go from there.

 

 

 

 

 

[mbp123]

On 8/7/2020 at 5:22 PM, Northstarninja said:

I've been looking into this as well. The difficulty comes to the wiring, You have to take the ALL wiring harness and all electronics from the donor car and splice/fab one for the g35 chassis.

Basically if you don"t the NATS system will lock the car out. The NATS can be bypassed by sending out your ecu to have it deleted. A few places do this, it's usually about $350.

 

Also the g35 transmission doesn't bolt up to a Vq35 HR or Vq37 VHR  so you'll need that also.  Most people also ditch the internal clutch mechanism for an external- they're far more reliable especially with aftermarket clutches. 

 

To be honest, it's likely easier to sell the VQ37 VHR and get a vqde short block. freshen it up with new bearings, ARP hardware for the crank and rods and get a set of aftermarket forged pistons.  You'll have a solid short block and can go from there.

 

 

 

 

 

Here's the thing: my G35 was the model with the VQ35HR, not the VQ35DE. I should have included that in my original post.
So that would mean the wiring may be a pain in the ass (kinda was expecting this), but the transmission will line up, correct?
Both are automatics.

Just how hard would the wiring be? Do you know anywhere I could look specifically for good info on that?

[Northstarninja]

Oh, your car has a VqHr? Just build that. It's a great block. Wish I had that motorset. 

Same block as the VqVhr. Difference is in the crank/stroke.

Hr -It has cam timing on Intake and exhaust. Similar to the vqde revup, tho iirc the cam sensors are in the back of the engine? 

Vhr cam timing and variable lift on intake, no variable exhaust timing iirc. 

You would need an entire vhr engine, harness and ecu, *maybe* cluster?, *Maybe* auto trans computer?

Trying to think of all the things on the can-bus. 

The bolt pattern for the trans is the same on the hr/vhr, so it should work. 

The two *maybes* are idk if nissan can-bus systems check for serial#s in the different components. I think the hr trans and cluster will work if the Nats is removed, but that's a question for a tuner. 

 

Tbh if I had an HR I'd happily build that. 

 

If you want the extra displacement, swap the crank/rods/pistons out of the vhr into the vqhr

 

 

Edited September 20, 2020 by Northstarninja