[72 240z] Distributor Spacer STUCK on Distributor

[Hindenzerg1266]

Hey all, 

 

Sorry, been searching around here and a couple other Z forums, and haven't found anything where someone seems to have this same problem.

 

On my 72 I've been in the process of trying to install some Z-Therapy carbs, but have started by tuning procedure on the ignition system. When I'm trying to advance or retard the timing I CANNOT turn the distributor in the distributor spacer (mounting bracket, block, whatever it's called). I've removed both the bolts (10 mm and 8 mm) which should have let the distributor turn and nothing. 

 

I've given it wacks with my rubber mallet, busted out a decent sized pry bar, and all along the way I've been covering the joint in PB Blaster. 

 

What's the deal... Here are some pictures to hopefully illustrate what I'm talking about. Thanks so much for your help. 

[ETI2K]

I would:

Clamp distributor body in a padded vice with shaft horizontal. 

Use c-clamp, or padded vice grips, lock onto the removable base.  Orient the clamp so you can tie a weight to it that will hang down and apply a constant torque.

Apply heat from a heat gun or hair drier to the base,  but no warmer than you can touch.  Don't even think about using a torch 😬.

Juice both ends of the base with your favorite penetrating oil and let cool.

Repeat until the base twists.  

Since it's aluminum parts corroded together, it'll take a while, but it should work.

 

[NewZed]

You're trying to turn the wrong part.  Loosen the single screw, Phillips head, holding the distributor plate to the pedestal.  Then the distributor will turn.

 

The two bolts hold the pedestal down.  Those are often sealed with gasket sealer since they have oil underneath.  It's not meant to turn.

 

Here is one of your pictures with a circle showing where the screw is.  It should be easy to see.

 

[NewZed]

Here's another showing the plane of separation between the part that turns and the part that doesn't.

 

[Hindenzerg1266]

2 hours ago, NewZed said:

Here's another showing the plane of separation between the part that turns and the part that doesn't.

 

Thanks for your help, but that darker brown plate (the more rusted one above and to the left of your red line) is actually free to turn around the "shank" of the distributor in that picture. 

 

I'm pretty sure I should be able to spin the distributor inside of the "Spacer" right?

 

In normal operation, when it's on the car, you're correct. You loosen the 8 mm (I think it's 8 mm, the head is 8 mm) that holds the distributor (and that rusted plate) to the "spacer", and then you rotate the entire assembly.

 

In the pictures I shared, that bolt is already removed, the rusted plate spins freely, and the distributor and spacer are fused together HARD.

[Hindenzerg1266]

2 hours ago, ETI2K said:

I would:

Clamp distributor body in a padded vice with shaft horizontal. 

Use c-clamp, or padded vice grips, lock onto the removable base.  Orient the clamp so you can tie a weight to it that will hang down and apply a constant torque.

Apply heat from a heat gun or hair drier to the base,  but no warmer than you can touch.  Don't even think about using a torch 😬.

Juice both ends of the base with your favorite penetrating oil and let cool.

Repeat until the base twists.  

Since it's aluminum parts corroded together, it'll take a while, but it should work.

 

 

This is a great idea, I'll take a crack at it in the morning with a fresh cup of coffee and a lot more patience

[NewZed]

You should show a picture of your distributor, not pictures from the internet.  There's something odd about what you're describing.  It sounds like you haven't even pulled the distributor.  If you have the pedestal mounting bolts out just pull up and the distributor will come out.

 

It should not be complicated, at all.

 

Most people call this the pedestal, not a "bracket".

 

 

[Hindenzerg1266]

2 hours ago, NewZed said:

You should show a picture of your distributor, not pictures from the internet.  There's something odd about what you're describing.  It sounds like you haven't even pulled the distributor.  If you have the pedestal mounting bolts out just pull up and the distributor will come out.

 

It should not be complicated, at all.

 

Most people call this the pedestal, not a "bracket".

 

 

 

The pictures I posted above (except for the one where I said it's from an Ebay posting) ARE from my distributor when it was off the car and in my hand. And yea, it's definitely odd, that's why I'm posting in a forum to talk with other folks who have a more detailed knowledge about weird things that happen on 50 year old cars instead of just doing the job

 

Man... why's everyone get so greater than thou on these forums? We are all interested in these things at the end of the day right? 

 

I'll post a few pictures in a bit of the setup I'll be trying based on what ET12K suggested. 

[NewZed]

8 hours ago, Hindenzerg1266 said:

Man... why's everyone get so greater than thou on these forums?

 

Never mind.

Edited December 23, 2020 by NewZed

[NewZed]

Mistake.

Edited December 23, 2020 by NewZed

[Hindenzerg1266]

Success! Ended up getting a 3 Prong Bearing Puller from O'reilly's and was able to make it work with a 19 mm socket as my "pusher" and reacting the load into the beefier flange of the distributor pedestal. 

 

Thanks @NewZed and @ETl2k! I didn't quite make it work with the weights hanging as you suggested, but heating it up with the heat gun and a lot of elbow grease/PB Blaster made it happen.

 

Here's some pictures of the puller setup: 

[ETI2K]

That's great that it worked! 

Have any idea how much torque you had to apply to the puller?

[NewZed]

Check the vacuum advance breaker plate while it's out.  The ball bearings get rusty and stick.  Don't force it, the plastic bearing retainer will break.  Some people don't use vacuum advance with carbs but if you do you'll want it to move freely.

[Hindenzerg1266]

On 12/24/2020 at 9:28 AM, ETI2K said:

That's great that it worked! 

Have any idea how much torque you had to apply to the puller?

 

Dang, not sure. It wasn't much, but definitely needed to be "pushed" out instead of just banged on or pulled by hand. 

 

BE CAREFUL WITH A SCREWDRIVER! Don't pry on the advance setting plate or anything because it's easy to bend. Just get the puller

[ETI2K]

I was surprised and happy for you that your story ended well.  When I started to read your post, I thought you would say an ear broke off. 😳

Gentle pressure, relentlessly applied.

Works for all sorts of things!