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About ETI2K

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    Lexington, VA

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  1. Jumping in here, where does one find a good door skin? I need each side.
  2. I was surprised and happy for you that your story ended well. When I started to read your post, I thought you would say an ear broke off. 😳 Gentle pressure, relentlessly applied. Works for all sorts of things!
  3. If you are able to start the engine everytime and after it's running it then shuts down, it doesn't seem to indicate a problem with the ignition switch. Though recalcitrant, it works. If the fuel supply is cutting out after the switch returns from START to ON, then I'm with @sjoost. The problem sounds like it's related to a condition needing to be satisfied after start - the condition being a matter of safety. If you an ammeter, look at the current to the pump compared to time. When is it on, when is it off. If it's repeatable, then it is under control, and suggests something is
  4. Ahh, electrical problems. Aren't they just the best?! 😁🤔
  5. Have you tried manually operating the AFM flap, while the engine is idling? If you are able to determine if the mixture changes appropriately, it would suggest the AFM and ECU are at least functioning on that front. Might also eliminate some variables.
  6. That's great that it worked! Have any idea how much torque you had to apply to the puller?
  7. I would: Clamp distributor body in a padded vice with shaft horizontal. Use c-clamp, or padded vice grips, lock onto the removable base. Orient the clamp so you can tie a weight to it that will hang down and apply a constant torque. Apply heat from a heat gun or hair drier to the base, but no warmer than you can touch. Don't even think about using a torch 😬. Juice both ends of the base with your favorite penetrating oil and let cool. Repeat until the base twists. Since it's aluminum parts corroded together, it'll take a while, but it should work.
  8. Good suggestion @jpndave. DWV is cheap, thin-walled, and cheap! 😁 Imagine a hard-piped air distribution system behind the dash - quiet, lots of air, and didn't cost $300. Actually, it probably cost about $30 in parts and about $12,990 in labor, but man, it'd be the shite. C'mon, you're not really busy are you?
  9. That's the problem- finding a hose that is less restrictive (and quieter bc of reduced losses). PVC pipe works great 😁😉 Festool uses hoses that are much smoother inside but don't have the small bend radius needed. Perhaps less flexible, smoother hose and rigid elbows for tight turns? Sorry, no solutions, really. As was suggested above, reduced path length by altering the goesintos/goesoutofs is more easily achieved. Oh yeah, I was joking about PVC, but something rigid can be shaped with heat. Sort of like shaping straight brake line to replace existing (without heat of cou
  10. I haven't been following this thread, but I just saw the pic of the routed flex hose. That type of hose is TERRIBLE for airflow. The corrugations absolutely kill flow. Also, the left side s-curve contributes significantly to the loss of flow. It has to do with large directional changes over a short hose length. It's absolutely worth looking for a hose/pipe with shorter length, smother wall, and a straighter path.
  11. Congratulations on getting back in the game. That's a good looking car compared to a lot of them. You will have lots of fun. My first was a 73 CA car. No rust, but absolutely beat to hell by the OO (original owner). There wasn't a 6" square of metal anywhere that wasn't dented, scratched, or damaged in some way. I bought it from a senior medical student at Howard University in DC. I always wondered how he treated his patients after seeing what he did to a car he owned and presumably loved. Keep us updated with plenty of pics.
  12. Those are the side seals for the last crank bearing cap. Usually, it is just the round seal that leaks, so you can solve your leak easily. If the side seals leak, you'll have to remove the cap and replace them as well. In my best Clint Eastwood...So, do you feel lucky punk? 🤔
  13. @Goose280Z '78 - Congratulations. Your car looks to be in great shape. Here's to no surprises 🍻
  14. It sure looks right. Thank you very much for sending it along. Progress is being made in sometimes very small steps.
  15. I have a similar problem, but maybe bigger. I have two door shells that came from my car - with no skins at all. The originals were removed to deal with the same problem Boost has. Unfortunately, the skins were damaged beyond any hope of use in a tragic sandblasting operation. 😫. I bought two replacement doors 20+ years ago but they go to a late 76 280, mine is early. So I've been considering removing the good skins and installing them on the correct shells. I figured I'd drill the spot welds, warm the flanges and pry them open - as grannyknot suggests - as little as possible. Reins
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