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ETI2K

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About ETI2K

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    Lexington, VA

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  1. It sure looks right. Thank you very much for sending it along. Progress is being made in sometimes very small steps.
  2. I have a similar problem, but maybe bigger. I have two door shells that came from my car - with no skins at all. The originals were removed to deal with the same problem Boost has. Unfortunately, the skins were damaged beyond any hope of use in a tragic sandblasting operation. 😫. I bought two replacement doors 20+ years ago but they go to a late 76 280, mine is early. So I've been considering removing the good skins and installing them on the correct shells. I figured I'd drill the spot welds, warm the flanges and pry them open - as grannyknot suggests - as little as possible. Reinstall would be plug welding through the old spot weld holes. Anyone ever attempt such a thing?
  3. That is a good looking start! It might serve you well to do a lot of careful inspection of the common rust areas before you begin assembly operations, in case someone didn't do proper repair work. I am starting a 76 in the same condition (disassembled, not painted), and making changes to wire harness currently. Actual assembly will be sometime next year, after I get a shop built. I'll be looking forward to seeing your progress. Congratulations!
  4. Jeff,

    Are you still making digitized dimensional data available?

  5. Thanks for the info. I appreciate it.
  6. I'm in the process of making wire harness changes that include upgrades and additions that will increase the total current requirement from the alternator/battery. Ultimately, besides wire gauge changes, the alternator will need to be upgraded. For this calculation, I started with the belief that winter and summer might be very different. Turns out, maybe not so much. Loads are computed at minimum charging voltage: 13.5 (arguably). Lighting current is based on using incandescent bulbs which also will see "persistent" and "transient" use. The persistent load comes out to about 17A, while transients total around 16A. I took a WAG and chose 25A for both. Some other transient loads, such as power windows, are not included. Audio equipment is not included. The highest load case in this example is 134A. If you believe in safety factor, and I most certainly do, it looks like I'll need at least a 150A alternator. Has anyone successfully used an alternator rated in the 150 - 200A range?
  7. That's a very elegant solution. I especially like the way you used the circumferential groove to captivate a threaded fitting and standoff for securing the sensor - that's sort of a question, really, to be sure I am seeing it correctly. Been looking for a way to implement a cam sensor for a while now. I think as soon as I can run my lathe again, I'll do the same thing. What vehicle is the sensor for? EDIT: Found one from a '95 Audi 90 that looks similar. Never underestimate what one can accomplish when there's nothing to do but sit in front of a computer for countless hours a day. 😁 Thanks for sharing your design, tioga.
  8. Would anyone be able to snap a pic of the plastic fusebox cover showing enough detail to read it? I am making corrections and updates to a color wiring diagram I found (here, I think), which I will then make available as .png file to anyone wanting it. Once the wiring diagram is complete, I'll use AutoCAD to create a modified diagram for the wiring changes I am making to implement Megasquirt, which I will also make available.
  9. Any chance someone has an old 2.8 piston lying around and could measure the groove depth? Any help is appreciated.
  10. It seems the consensus is to use cavity wax as the primary (last step) moisture-proof sealer, which makes very good sense. Of course, the issue is what to do before that. Since my car is on a rotisserie, I can orient it as needed to position certain openings 'down'. Then flood the cavities with ZRC until it runs through any openings between welds, sealing them against moisture and offering sacrificial protection . After lots of cure time, finish with cavity wax. The problem with ZRC, like any zinc product I guess, is most paints don't do well as a top coat, so you have to remove any that makes its way to a finish surface. Small price to pay for the protection afforded inside the dark recesses of these cars.
  11. Looking to install Total Seal rings and they need that spec to determine the ring pack. The factory service manual does not include that one small detail.
  12. So much fun to be had. Looking like my dash is arriving tomorrow!
  13. ETI2K

    20181008_192211.jpg

    How did everything look inside? I am planning to do the same work on mine. New bearings and synchros for certain.
  14. Check this YouTube video. Looks like a very well thought out test. I'd love to have seen more products tested such as ZRC, Rust Bullet, Kryptonite, etc. Many years ago (around 1996 maybe) I tested the lot of rust preventers on the market, including latex-based rust converter, Eastwood Heavy Duty Anti-Rust, ZRC (Zinc-Rich Compound) and Corroless. The test was fairly simple. I started with clean sheet metal (1012-1018) and coated each piece as directed, except I did not coat the edges as I wanted to give the corrosion a "path" to the faces. After curing, I scratched across each face with a sharp tool to cut through the coating, then sank the pieces into a sink with salt water in it, and kept the salt water fresh by changing it out every couple of days. After a few weeks, the ZRC-coated steel was the only one that had not categorically failed or rusted. Most of the coatings lifted from the metal (that started as bubbling - not intrusion of rust from the edges) and began to rust where the surface became exposed to the salt water. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lyWHF4NoNVk
  15. Hmm, very good to know that about cracking. Thanks My reasoning for stainless was that the upside down hat design provides no way for moisture inside the profile to drain or evaporate well, so eventually, water will collect and settle at the bottom of the frame rails. The OEM spot welds assure there will be no 'coating' to stop corrosion at the weld sites either. So the obvious question becomes, how do you prevent your repair from rusting out again? I have no experience with weld-through primers in that regard and wonder about how they can protect if they've been burned and never get a top coat. Uncoated continuous butt welds can only experience surface rusting since there are no small cavities for water to collect as there would be using stitch welds. Also it would seem butt welds would endure better than a "pinch" weld (spot or plug). So that's for the continuous floor pan to side of frame rail welding rationale. As for corrosion, I agree dissimilar metals can have great potential. My strategy there was, after welding, to spray (with an undercoating spray system - fan, reverse slash, shotgun type nozzles, etc.) ZRC into every cavity until it started to drain from the weep holes. I had holes placed in the bottom of the frame rails for that purpose, besides letting water out. The rationale for stainless comes from my belief that you can't really see inside a cavity where several pieces of sheet metal come together to be certain you've coated the metal thoroughly, and I was intent on fixing this car only once. So I reasoned the dissimilar metals potential was less of an issue than the potentially uncoated carbon. Further, I had planned to lower the car and believed eventually those frame rails will become skid pads. Of course, that thinking is know more than 20 years old and I know new coating materials, processes, and tools (can you say borescope?) are available. I'd love more feedback on the corrosion issue. Maybe there's a (many?) threads out there already. I just haven't looked yet.
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