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About ETI2K

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    Lexington, VA

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  1. Congratulations on getting back in the game. That's a good looking car compared to a lot of them. You will have lots of fun. My first was a 73 CA car. No rust, but absolutely beat to hell by the OO (original owner). There wasn't a 6" square of metal anywhere that wasn't dented, scratched, or damaged in some way. I bought it from a senior medical student at Howard University in DC. I always wondered how he treated his patients after seeing what he did to a car he owned and presumably loved. Keep us updated with plenty of pics.
  2. Those are the side seals for the last crank bearing cap. Usually, it is just the round seal that leaks, so you can solve your leak easily. If the side seals leak, you'll have to remove the cap and replace them as well. In my best Clint Eastwood...So, do you feel lucky punk? 🤔
  3. @Goose280Z '78 - Congratulations. Your car looks to be in great shape. Here's to no surprises 🍻
  4. It sure looks right. Thank you very much for sending it along. Progress is being made in sometimes very small steps.
  5. I have a similar problem, but maybe bigger. I have two door shells that came from my car - with no skins at all. The originals were removed to deal with the same problem Boost has. Unfortunately, the skins were damaged beyond any hope of use in a tragic sandblasting operation. 😫. I bought two replacement doors 20+ years ago but they go to a late 76 280, mine is early. So I've been considering removing the good skins and installing them on the correct shells. I figured I'd drill the spot welds, warm the flanges and pry them open - as grannyknot suggests - as little as possible. Reinstall would be plug welding through the old spot weld holes. Anyone ever attempt such a thing?
  6. That is a good looking start! It might serve you well to do a lot of careful inspection of the common rust areas before you begin assembly operations, in case someone didn't do proper repair work. I am starting a 76 in the same condition (disassembled, not painted), and making changes to wire harness currently. Actual assembly will be sometime next year, after I get a shop built. I'll be looking forward to seeing your progress. Congratulations!
  7. Jeff,

    Are you still making digitized dimensional data available?

  8. Thanks for the info. I appreciate it.
  9. I'm in the process of making wire harness changes that include upgrades and additions that will increase the total current requirement from the alternator/battery. Ultimately, besides wire gauge changes, the alternator will need to be upgraded. For this calculation, I started with the belief that winter and summer might be very different. Turns out, maybe not so much. Loads are computed at minimum charging voltage: 13.5 (arguably). Lighting current is based on using incandescent bulbs which also will see "persistent" and "transient" use. The persistent load comes out to about 17A, while transients total around 16A. I took a WAG and chose 25A for both. Some other transient loads, such as power windows, are not included. Audio equipment is not included. The highest load case in this example is 134A. If you believe in safety factor, and I most certainly do, it looks like I'll need at least a 150A alternator. Has anyone successfully used an alternator rated in the 150 - 200A range?
  10. That's a very elegant solution. I especially like the way you used the circumferential groove to captivate a threaded fitting and standoff for securing the sensor - that's sort of a question, really, to be sure I am seeing it correctly. Been looking for a way to implement a cam sensor for a while now. I think as soon as I can run my lathe again, I'll do the same thing. What vehicle is the sensor for? EDIT: Found one from a '95 Audi 90 that looks similar. Never underestimate what one can accomplish when there's nothing to do but sit in front of a computer for countless hours a day. 😁 Thanks for sharing your design, tioga.
  11. Would anyone be able to snap a pic of the plastic fusebox cover showing enough detail to read it? I am making corrections and updates to a color wiring diagram I found (here, I think), which I will then make available as .png file to anyone wanting it. Once the wiring diagram is complete, I'll use AutoCAD to create a modified diagram for the wiring changes I am making to implement Megasquirt, which I will also make available.
  12. Any chance someone has an old 2.8 piston lying around and could measure the groove depth? Any help is appreciated.
  13. It seems the consensus is to use cavity wax as the primary (last step) moisture-proof sealer, which makes very good sense. Of course, the issue is what to do before that. Since my car is on a rotisserie, I can orient it as needed to position certain openings 'down'. Then flood the cavities with ZRC until it runs through any openings between welds, sealing them against moisture and offering sacrificial protection . After lots of cure time, finish with cavity wax. The problem with ZRC, like any zinc product I guess, is most paints don't do well as a top coat, so you have to remove any that makes its way to a finish surface. Small price to pay for the protection afforded inside the dark recesses of these cars.
  14. Looking to install Total Seal rings and they need that spec to determine the ring pack. The factory service manual does not include that one small detail.
  15. So much fun to be had. Looking like my dash is arriving tomorrow!
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