Lower Control Arm Bushing Housing Surface Damage?

[TalonA]

I've gone through several websites and forums for removing the LCA inner and outer bushings. With this, they all recommend caution when using the hacksaw to make the two cuts through the outer bushing (so you don't damage the actual housing surface). They don't provide reasoning as to why, however.

 

Is a little surface damage par for the course? What're your experiences?

[Brad-ManQ45]

It's like the opposite of polishing the beam on connecting rods to eliminate stress fractures/weaknesses.  You are inducing a weakening of the surface and assembly.

[NewZed]

Pasco?  Odds are pretty good that you can get them out without cutting.  A lug nut has the same thread pattern.  Stick one on, spin the rod around a bunch to break up the rust and crud, and beat it back and forth with a hammer.  It might come out.  Also, a long 5/8" bolt works well as a drift to punch it through.  Don't forget to remove the locking pin.

 

I found on mine that the spindle pin was actually stuck in the bushing sleeve, not so much the casting.  Something to be aware of.  The rubber would let it move but then pull it right back in.  Heat the rubber up to degrade it if that's the case.  No need to catch it on fire, just enough heat to degrade it.

[TalonA]

1 hour ago, Brad-ManQ45 said:

It's like the opposite of polishing the beam on connecting rods to eliminate stress fractures/weaknesses.  You are inducing a weakening of the surface and assembly.

That's about what I figured, thank you for the confirmation.

 

7 minutes ago, NewZed said:

Pasco?  Odds are pretty good that you can get them out without cutting.  A lug nut has the same thread pattern.  Stick one on, spin the rod around a bunch to break up the rust and crud, and beat it back and forth with a hammer.  It might come out.  Also, a long 5/8" bolt works well as a drift to punch it through.  Don't forget to remove the locking pin.

 

I found on mine that the spindle pin was actually stuck in the bushing sleeve, not so much the casting.  Something to be aware of.  The rubber would let it move but then pull it right back in.  Heat the rubber up to degrade it if that's the case.  No need to catch it on fire, just enough heat to degrade it.

Yes, Pasco. I've gone through and heated the rubber and gotten the inner sleeve and rubber out for a front and rear LCA-that part was fairly easy.

The outer sleeve is what's been giving me issues. Unfortunately, I chewed up the edges a little with the hacksaw on one of the rear bushing housings.

[NewZed]

I don't think that it matters much.  There's a small gap there anyway.  I'd just file off any raised edges and put it back together.  There will be plenty of good surface there.  If you study how it works when everything is bolted together those two surfaces don't contact except under high loads.  The locking pin in the casting and the inner sleeve of the bushings keeps everything centered.  Under normal conditions the gap stays constant.

 

p.s. for what it's worth, I have never heard of one those control arm (link) ears failing or the strut casting.  The damage is certainly a stress riser but the parts are very robust.  There are hundreds or thousands of damaged parts out there I'm sure.  The stuck spindle pin problem has been happening for years.

Edited December 5, 2023 by NewZed