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hey scottymiz....


Guest BadKarmaCreepin

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Guest BadKarmaCreepin

i know you have the 260zt, but is it the l26 or l28? and...if you don't mind me asking, what have you spent so far on your set up, ballpark? i've found a nice 240 with an l28 in it an would like to do a similar set up to what you have goin on. anything else you feel would be relative would be appreciated. thanks.

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sorry i didn't see the post sooner dan.I have a 76 280z not a 260 but it doesn't matter.I have about........prolly 2000 bucks into it including the clutch and aluminum flywheel.I might have forgot some things but i think that's about it.i'll try to break it down.550 for turbo,150 i think for dp from scottie,50 bucks for 65mm tb from tony fruzza,clutch and flywheel and radiator from timz for about 400 or so can't remember exactly,turbo engine was 100 bucks with computer and everything else i need.IC was free so i don't count that and it sucks.injectors i traded for my old merkur ones and i paid 120 for those,ic piping was like 30 bucks, blitz bov was 130,engine rebuild kit with head work done was 200.and 3" exhaust with magnaflo muffler was 200.and 100 bucks for a manual boost controller.That's about it i think.it was little here little there not all at once i couldn't afford it :D I still am getting an ic from timz and a tech 2 engine management system from him.So that'll drive the price up some more.I just am so hooked on speed now i need an iv of boost in my arm :D the engine is all stock put back to stock specs when i rebuilt it this winter but that has to be changed soon too i need a good cam soon too.It's the stock 81 zxt motor l28et ;) Anymore questions just ask i'll be looking for it now:)

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Guest BadKarmaCreepin

damn, it seems like your car is the 1st child of hybridz, it's members, and it member's parts! rockon.gif but here's another couple q's: you got the turbo '81 zx motor, but i have this 72 240 with the n/a 80 zx motor (n47), and was wondering if i should use it, or find a donator and build it on the side (probably a better idea). next q: did you do all the work yourself? like the rebuilding and installation and tuning? cause most likely, there's no way i have any of the proper tools and/or know-how to take something apart, let alone put it back together. i mean, **** , i couldn't even manage a carb rebuild! malebitchslap.gif one more: of the parts you got from this forum, what kind of deal did you get? did you pay what you would have from a retail or internet seller? what do you think i'd expect to pay for the same or similar setup via new and/or ebay parts? i know this is a lot, but thanks for your help!

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ya my engine has alot of used stuff on it but it's the only way i can afford it all. smile.gif OK i would just use a donor motor out of one of the zxt's cuz that way you won't have to adjust too much.I did do all the work myself except for the head work i let that to the professionals.But everything else i did myself and it wasn't hard.It's a good learning expirence to get your hands on that stuff and do it your self.I got good deals from tim and tony and scottie but i think they would have sold them to anyone for the price they told me.I just looked around alot and found good deals.If you just keep looking around you could find everything i have for prolly the same price or even less.I think i have to tear her down again cuz running it hard yesterday i think i fried a ring lots of detonation and i didn't let off cuz i was mad that stupid starion ic doesn't work for crap.

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Guest BadKarmaCreepin

so with the setup you're currently running, how much hp are you puttin down, and what kinda times are you gettin? i'm probably rarely gonna have this thing at the track, and it's gonna be more of a street light racer/highway racer. so i was lookin for hardcore acceleration from a stand still and at cruising speed. i'm sure your setup is powerful enough, i just wanted to hear some examples. also, how much of a difference do you think it would make if you were not using that starionj IC, but a decent sized spearco (i think) IC? thanks.

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hey dan i don't know the hp i'm putting down but my best time so far is a 12.86 @109mph and it was at 10 psi of boost.It has alot of power all the time off the line and when crusing.I think a better cooler would make a huge diff cuz then i could run like 20 psi of boost and make some real power.I'm just tickleing this turbo at 10 psi and anymore with the starion ic and i get detonation.I tried the volvo one but i killed it good.The only way i could use the volvo one is if i put on new aluminum end caps and i'm not gonna do that.Just so you know i run my car at the track just like i do on the street so i know what it'll do out there.I run street tires,205-55-16's and i run pump gas (94 octane) and the same amount of boost as on the street.I'm very happy with the results and i could get much better if i could hook.

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Guest BadKarmaCreepin

you're getting 12.86 with 10 psi?! holy f!@#ing fast car batman! if you actually cranked it up to like 16-18-20 with a nice I/C, what would you guess it would run? that's gotta be a beast! damn, and for around 2 grand (not counting intercooler), the list you have as your signature is complete right? i mean all things pertaining to your engine?

 

also, how come it's your intercooler that's causing detonation? just curious. thanks.

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i think the sig is complete and the ic is just too small for the turbo.The pic i have attatched to my sig is one of the new turbo and old t3.The new one is much bigger and moves alot more air.As for times with a new ic i dunno but i'm guessing mid 11's or so.The ic sin't gonna be that expensive i'm getting timz's old one and he's giving me a deal on it. ;) I tell you this tho my car is very fun to drive when it's running right.The dang ic just kinda ruins it all when it starts pinging so i ahve to back down the boost and stay at 10 to keep the car running good.Today on the way to work it was pushing 18 psi and it was hauling but when it warms up alot it reduces the boost i think cuz of the heat on the actuator making it open quicker to reduce the boost.I really need an external wastegate and i think i might get one this winter to save time and do it right.

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Guest BadKarmaCreepin

so it is your ic that's causing the detonation? also, one of my friends, after telling him of my plans, said having a carb'ed engine would get me more hp than an fi'ed one. what do you think? isn't a carb'ed engine harder to start in the winter? and what about fuel pumps? cause i'm sure having the fuel injection is a bigger headache, but the carbs become untuned more quickly. correct any kind of misinformation you see, please. also, which rear end do you have? i'm guessing the r-200. what's the gearing? how about gauges? anything above the ordinary? thanks.

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There's no way a carb is going to get you more HP than FI, especially on a turbocharged engine. A good FI system can meter fuel so much more precisely over the whole load and RPM band - that's key to avoiding over-rich conditions robbing power, or over-lean conditions robbing you your engine.

 

A good FI system might cost more, and could be harder to tune, depending on your experience level, but more HP? shifty.gif

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Guest BadKarmaCreepin

ok, so say i found a decent motor (81 zxt with all necessary parts). how long does it take to rebuild the engine (say the same engine mentioned before, including FI, and including similar if not exact parts scotty has to install , not their price), put it in, and tune it? how much is labor per hour? this ought to be interesting...

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well the rear i have is out of an 81zxt and it's a 3.54 gear in the back.My gauges are all stock except for the a/f gauge and boost gauge.sleeper beat me to it he's right an efi system is way more efficent.It would only take me about a full day to rebuild my motor.I'd suggest tryring to do it your self it's a good learning expirence.If not i couldn't tell you how much it would cost.

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Guest Anonymous

i put this in the wrong place.1st time

...i dunno how much he spent.....but i bet its a hell of a lot less than anybody else!...hehehhe

....he's relentless (damned good) finding things cheap....and does "everything" himself....

.....scottie: i gave up (got tired of looking for someone to do it) and sent my intake to "mr bell" to get those 12 injectors on it....hes gonna make me an i.c. and an adapter for the external wastegate too....i'm pretty excited about that...s

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damn steve well tell me how it works for you and how much if you don't mind me asking.I try to get things cheap so i can afford them cuz i'm not an employee of any major car companies like some other people i know rolleyesg.gif I am probably the lowest paid guy on here well maybe not but darn close :D I love doing this stuff by my self cuz it's great spending time with your z and learning stuff on the way.I'd be lost if i just sent my car out to a company that built it for me and i didn't do anything on it.I have to work on my cars if i don't it doesn't mean as much to me.

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Guest BadKarmaCreepin

ok, so if i did TRY and rebuild this motor, what kinda tools would i need? and can i rent or borrow the hoist and other big, expensive things from somewhere? and how complicated is it to tear down a motor? can i use the chilton's manual (which i have) or do i need to find some other literature? i mean, i had my carb on the v8 in pieces all over the floor and could not for the life of me figure out how to get it back together working properly. should i label everything as i take it off? and what kind of environment should i be doing this in? like a garage (which i don't have), or maybe i should rent one of those storage places and do it there...that's not a bad idea. but then i need a truck to move the motor around and everything, ahhhhhhhhhh!! cuss.gif so much stuff to do!

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you will just need basic hand tools and then you can rent a cherry picker and engine stand.You don't have to have a garage but it would be nice or at least have a place to put the engine when your not working on it to keep it from rusting.I carried my motor from the stand fully gutted to my truck so you could put it into a car with some rags and stuff.You can do it with a chilton's book it should be just fine they are descriptive on where everything goes.And if you have any questions i and i'm sure all of the other l28 guys will help.Don't worry after you do it once it's like a walk in th park;)Another option is that is you are in chicago it';s only like 3 hrs from me and i could help you or build you and engine.

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OK here is the free tip on building an engine.Since you admit to being "challenged|" in this area, here's the plan.

 

You need an area where you can put stuff. Then you should take stuff off the engine and put it in this area in order. Be sure to label the bolts and such. That way when you go to assemble it, you just reverse the order, and everything is a lot simplier. Use little boxes, ziploc bags, solo cups, whatever.

 

Cleanliness is a major virtue with engine building, but you have to keep track of a few things.

 

First of all, the main caps and rod caps cannot be mixed up, so you have to keep them in order. Same with the cam towers, rocker arms and lash pads, which you are going to have to remove from the head since you need to have the head checked and perhaps have a valve job.

 

One tip, there is sometimes paint in the inside of the oil pan from the factory, and I take that off all my engines I build ever since I had some peel off and clog my pick up tube for the oil pump. Best engine I ever built too. Sucked.

 

We can coach you, and I know it sounds intimidating to you right now, but as Scottie says, once you do it, it is old hat. I also think once you get in there, it makes a lot more sense.

 

As for carbs, I don't like messing with them either.

 

If you look around on the internet, you can find stuff alot cheaper such as rings, bearings and gaskets. Spend your money where it counts and make sure you get good machine work. If the guys have never done a Datsun engine, go somewhere else. be especially careful with head work. All the valve stem heights must be kept consistent if there is a valve job done, or you will have a royal valve adjustment pain in the neck on your hands. Get new valve stem seals.

 

Good luck. I am going to be going thru a shortblock here really soon. Want to send yours down?

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Scotty.

You said it cost you $200 to rebuild your engine. Where are you getting the rebuild kit from. I found one place that sells them for $652 and I thought that was cheap. Now this kit comes w/ everything including pistons, timing, gaskets, oil pump, etc. What are you getting for $200 and from where. I am trying to do my car on a low budget, too. So far I have been lucky with my purchases. Thanks.

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i got new rings gaskets and bearings it's all i needed to rebuild it.My girlfriend's dad owns a carquest so i get the stuff at a discount. :D BUt i can check for you what the price would be but like i said it's not new pistons and timing chain and stuff like that it was just bearings and rings and new gaskets.

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