A to Z Posted 15 hours ago Author Share Posted 15 hours ago thanks a lot. I added a bit more hardener and then no problem. I will post pics later, but I put a thin coat of black primer right on the steel and then blocked it this morning. Did the same with the sail panels. It worked great. I then wiped it down with rubbing alcohol and put pieces of blue tape in all the low spots that filler primer won't fill in. I will use glaze with a hardener now. I am well versed with it and it is so easy to work. I just want a decent job, I don't need a show car body. when all is said and done, if the clear doesn't "pop" enough, I will wipe on a coat of glossy Poppy's patina. Poppy's Patina - The Original Patina Clear Coat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A to Z Posted 9 hours ago Author Share Posted 9 hours ago I'm keeping it simple and easy to get done. not going to a mirror finish, just a factory level finish. I build drivers, Sir. I was going to use that dry guide coat until I realized you can't paint over it.....so it is ANOTHER step to get it off then put the mud when you took it off, then smooth it out then another guide coat then block. I just used black primer, mud the deepest bottoms, and use about 4-5 coats of the THICK primer filler made by duplicolor.....specially made for deep scratches. red oxide color. Not advocating any of this it's just experimentation and finding a way that works for me. It will go quick this way. Mud only where needed. when you cover the whole panel, 90% is sanded right off. Using glaze, it sands so easy, I can block it with 220 grit within about a hour and have it ready for filler primer....will it be razor straight? No....but it will look pretty nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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