Guest Anonymous Posted February 15, 2002 Share Posted February 15, 2002 Can anybody give me some idea's on how to get some cheap horse power out of a 360, its my first mopar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted February 16, 2002 Share Posted February 16, 2002 100 hp shot of nitrous... Regards, Lone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted February 17, 2002 Share Posted February 17, 2002 i suggest you buy the mopaar performance book "small block 'A' engines" it has a LOT of good information on what to do to your motor to get the desired power level. what year is your 360 motor? the block i'm using is a 360 also. good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest super280z Posted February 17, 2002 Share Posted February 17, 2002 check out last month's car craft. they have an article about how to port cyllinder heads. they were making 400 crank HP on a stock headed 360 and about 475 w/some ported stockers. God bless mopar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted February 21, 2002 Share Posted February 21, 2002 That article really made me want a Mopar stroker small block. Too bad the parts are more expensive than for a SBC. The tall deck height and longer rod capability are killer. Always loved the 340! I see Mopar is selling the block again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAW Posted June 17, 2003 Share Posted June 17, 2003 I was looking for some street hp at a reasonable cost so a hunted for a pair of 5.9L Magnum heads to raise the c.r., provide better quench (closed chamber), and better "swirl" of intake charge vs what the 360 earlier heads can do, mild cam & lifters (Jeep hydraulic lifters), longer pushrods from Mopar Performance to use the new head with the non-roller block and provide pushrod oil source vs rocker rail oiling, Mopar Perf advance springs for the distributor, pre-Magnum alum 4bbl intake with adapters to use the Magnum manifold mounting method, headers, etc. Note, if you go this way don't over do it with the cam because the Magnum rocker arms are 1.6:1 vs the older 360s 1.5:1. The higher ratio of the Magnum rockers will have an amplifying effect on the cam profile at the valve. I found a lot of parts I needed at Mancini Racing online. DAW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Pyrogen_007 Posted June 20, 2003 Share Posted June 20, 2003 If you have an LA (68-92), I would go with some W2 heads they have a couple of different set ups, and those outflow anything production. If you have a magnum engine as I do (93-present) then go with the R/T heads, also many set ups. From what I have learned here recently, the majority of your power is made in the heads, flow is very important. Heads aren't cheap but unless you can find a good deal, but you get what you pay for if done right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAW Posted June 25, 2003 Share Posted June 25, 2003 I paid $85 ea. for the 5.9 Magnum heads I'm putting on my 360. They were off a '99 truck with low miles. BTW, if you go this route you'll need a few longer head bolts to use the Magnum head vs the original 360 head. The lower (short) bolts are the same for both heads but the upper row of the 360 head has long bolts except for one, which goes into a higher boss and is longer than the others. It is marked "TR" on the head. The Magnum head upper row of bolts are all of the longest type, same as the "TR" bolts. So, if you're going to do this on a budget, in your travels at the junkyards pick up some "TR" headbolts as you see them so that you'll be ready for your swap (unless you pull the Magnum heads yourself, then you'll have all the bolts you need). Make sure you get Magnum valve covers, the earlier LA type are different. DAW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAW Posted July 17, 2003 Share Posted July 17, 2003 Maybe forget about the longer head bolts from the junkyard and just buy the set of Magnum bolts from Mopar Performance because they're relatively inexpensive, plus they have an integral washer configuration to the head of the bolt that the 360 bolts don't have. While you're buying these, some other good items from Mopar Performance are the timing chain tensioner (you should be using a double roller chain), and the inexpensive oil slinger. For ignition modifications, you can use lighter advance springs (there are two stock springs: one is very heavy and one is moderate). I removed the heavy sring and replaced it with a light spring; leaving the moderate to remain with the light. The mechanical advance on my distributor was stamped "15" on the underside of the advance base; the vaccuum advance stamped on the actuator rod is "7". Since initial timing on the stock 360 engine I have is 0 degrees, I assume the distributor markings refer to distributor degrees = (.5)crank degrees; or 30 degrees mechanical, and 14 maximum vacuum degrees. The way the stock springs appear, total mechanical advance would be reached at about 10,000 rpm. So, placing the light spring in there will bring the rpm at which total rpm is reached way down to around 3,500 to 4,200 rpm but we want to increase our initial advance from 0 up to 12-15 degrees by limiting the advance range in the distributor. My advance slots in the stock distributor were 0.270" long. I welded the inner aspects of the slots to shorten them to 0.225". I figure the 15 dist. degrees stock with the original slots became 12 dist. degrees once altered. So at the crank, 24 degrees + initial 12 degrees means 36 degrees at roughly 3,600 rpm. The vacuum advance activation point is adjustable with a small hex wrench into the port and I'll adjust this as needed to obtain best mpg without ping. These types of tips are horsepower at a low cost, which is what you are looking for. DAW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Breeze77z Posted August 4, 2003 Share Posted August 4, 2003 This might be old news, but here are a couple of links for parts: http://www.mopartsracing.com and http://www.krcperformance.com krc is almost entirely magnum/roller block engines, but they not only sell parts, they dyno different setups and have some pretty good info on what does what in terms of power. By no means a budget motor, but i especially like the Vortec Supercharged 408 stroker with 469HP and 725lb-ft of torque , try hookin the tires up with that in a Z haha. That's on their dyno page: http://www.krcperformance.com/newcontent/dyno.html Patrick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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