Breeze77z

OMG...that kid's going to be in therapy for ever!

well...you can calculate cost on UPS's website. I did just to see (I picked random zip codes because i don't know the "from" and "to" zips) and i pulled a box weight and dimensions out of my butt, but it was kind of pricey though. try: http://wwwapps.ups.com/calTimeCost?loc=en_US and if that doesn't work right just go to http://www.ups.com and pick your country and then there is a link for calculate time and cost. good luck. Pat.

i'm not siding with UPS on your circumstances, but i understand their position. I work as a loader (the semi's) and we're technically only supposed to see boxes up to 150lbs. well, working there 3 years i've gotten a pretty good sense of weight, and some of the crap we get is no where near 150lbs. so they've instituted a new policy where anything that is oversized or overweight (70+) gets remeseaured or reweighed at the hub. I saw one box get weighed personally because i called my supervisor over and complained (after dealing with 2 other identical boxes) that there was no way the box in question weighed 95lbs like the label said. well he got a little portable scale and tossed the box on it and hey...170lbs! so i have a feeling UPS finally realized how much they were getting screwed by businesses that ship UPS and underestimate weight and size to pay less for shipping, or to ship through us at all in regard to boxes over 150lbs. now like i said, i'm not siding with them in your case, i don't get paid enough to do that lol. but i thought i'd toss out the opposing view to maybe do some enlightening, and make you feel better that you're not the only one they're rechecking. Patrick.

Steering effort will be no problem. I've driven a '94 Mustang with 275/40s, and a 4000lb Dakota with 275/55s, both power steering of course, and the effort standing still is easier than the manual steering with 215/60s rolling in my Z. Definitely post pics too, I'll bet that will look mean Patrick.

I've been tossing around the idea of putting one in my '77 280. I've been researching, and i have a little experience from my Dakota R/T daily driver, however, I can't find an indisputable source concerning the stock compression ratio. My 250hp/345lb-ft R/T apparently only needs a bigger cam (PN-4876348), headers, and an M1 intake to match the Magnum 380hp/410lb-ft crate motor, IF...the CR is in fact 9:1. Also, I'm not sure about what tranny to use. I don't like autos, but the NV3500 5-speed they put behind the 318 and new 4.7L isn't strong enough to support the 360's torque (or so says krcperformance.com), which I can believe seeing as how dodge does not offer it behind the 360. And i'm confused by the description for part number: 5249842 at http://www.mopartsracing.com/parts/trans.html (4th down below flywheel pic). the part is a properly balanced flywheel for the magnum 360, but says it is for carb use only, why does that matter? thanks for any info. Patrick ps, sorry is this is a duplicate post, i tried once and it disappeared.

This might be old news, but here are a couple of links for parts: http://www.mopartsracing.com and http://www.krcperformance.com krc is almost entirely magnum/roller block engines, but they not only sell parts, they dyno different setups and have some pretty good info on what does what in terms of power. By no means a budget motor, but i especially like the Vortec Supercharged 408 stroker with 469HP and 725lb-ft of torque , try hookin the tires up with that in a Z haha. That's on their dyno page: http://www.krcperformance.com/newcontent/dyno.html Patrick.

thanks, i had just never seen ET/Speed indicating signs that close, but OMG that has to be an insanely fast car. Imagine wheely bar and full throttle the entire way Patrick

wtf, now i'm just confused re-rewatched it, and speed says 145 !

I can't say for sure because i don't even know where that is, but I think that is an 1/8th mile track. The ET/Speed board seem to close to the start line for that to be a 1/4 mile. That would definitely help explain a 9 second et with a crap start like that. Like i said, i don't know for sure.

this is kind of a tech question, but not a Z question, so i put it here. anyway...i'm looking at fiberglass hoods for my '98 Dakota R/T so i can have an actual cold air intake (functional hood scoop(s)), but they are all built like stock hoods with bracing and crap on the underside, therefore making them all cost 400-700 dollars. I don't want to spend the same amount for a hood that would buy me an entire Z front clip from JC Whitney. Most of the companies make "race glass" parts, that are lighter in weight, and don't have the factory mounts so are hood pinned on, and cost 150-250. They say not recommended for street, but does it really matter that much? i was thinking about putting the stock under hood heat mat on it too so it was less likely to warp from engine temp. any thoughts? Thanks Patrick..

haha, i read that, it's an article from a Sport Compact, or Turbo magazine. It's a spoof. the editors are poking fun at all the idiots that write them asking how to go fast, but already spent all their money on pointless (and ugly) aero kits and wheels and other crap that actually probably made their POS's slower. It's great when they pull out the sawsall and chop off everything that doesn't keep the wheels and engine and driver in place (roof etc.). Funny #$%& though. Pat.

traumatized (not really) girlfriend took these while i was at work. He hasn't done it before either, to either of our knowledge anyway. http://www.geocities.com/pmcguff/Crafty.html

None are sports cars, so why sit and argue and split hairs over low (to no) cubic inch, FWD...ECONOMY cars? It's all a bad fad that isn't going away soon enough, fueled by a generation of misinformed (read: Fast and Furious), Flash is fast bunch of pathological liars (i've seen way too many, my 260hp modded '96 Maxima does 11.8 ets @ 163 and weighs 3300lbs, sorry but not real feasible to even reach 160 as a top speed in that brick on wheels let alone to do it in the 1/4 mile). And sure, i'll race him in my stock truck and probably win every time, can't say for sure because i've yet find one with the balls to even try. Sorry, but i'm sick of being lied to period, and all this crap about how with just a cat-back, chip and intake, everybody's honda etc can run low 11s. Last test i saw said the group combined was lucky to break 16s stock, so 11s would require some major work. Sorry again, i live with a liar, my patience is near extinct

Yea, my family and friends gave me crap about buyin a "winter beater" '98 Dodge Dakota R/T and putting the Z up in storage. What they don't know is that although yea the truck has no rearend weight and 350lb-ft of torque, overall it is heavier and doesn't float nearly as much over snow/wet roads as the Z does. So i can drive the good ole truck through just about anything without any trouble at all because of 6 years of drivin the Z all year round. (my opinion though, a stick shift makes it a lot easier, no worrying about..."is it going to up/down shift around this turn and spin me"...so i miss that about the Z)

didn't see the vid clip yet (56k not so quick), but i've always been skeptical of dodge's claimed et for the SRT-4. Yea sure, light weight with decent HP and repectable torque, but you still have the low profile pizza cutter wide wheels/tires and front wheel drive that are a drag racer's downfall. Just my opinion, but i think dodge slapped on some wrinkle walled slicks to fluff the numbers a little.

quick update, took it to the local nissan dealer and said, umm...what's this off of ? It is a 300ZX turbo, at least according to the picture on the scematic-looking-thing and semi-part number we read. he suggested keeping it just for the coolant hookups that he was pretty sure the early '80s turbos didn't have. but he also said the compressor housing may be seized onto the center section, hence the lack of movement. any thoughts? is there anyway to unseize if that is what is wrong? thanks. Patrick.

ok...this is the back side of the compressor housing (facing the exhaust housing), there were never bolts in those two holes, should there be? it doesn't move at all though even with those holes empty. the actual impeler moves great, so i that isn't seized, could the compressor be seized and moved with a little penetrating oil? thanks and sorry for all the questions. Patrick. doh, almost forgot http://www.geocities.com/pmcguff/PICS/Turbo1.JPG

Hot Rod magazine has tested the vortech version a couple of times. They got 500hp from the chevy 4.3 V6 and 675hp from a chevy 383, so i don't know if 7-800 is doable or not. they blew a head gasket on the 4.3 when they revved it too much on 12psi of boost.

thanks guys, the crappy thing is my Z is at my parents house enjoying the garage...next to their new 350Z haha, but it is 4 hours away. and yea, i don't like the compressor exit either, it actually hits the exhaust manifold and i'll either need to make a spacer to bolt the turbo up, or somehow rotate the compressor housing so that isn't there anymore, and i'm not sure if that is even an option. thanks again though for all the help. Patrick.

I got this for a deal i couldn't pass up, but now i'm not sure if it is usable or not, no big deal, i could always sell it if it won't fit. I was told it came off of a running Z car, it says 17V4 Nissan Motor on intake housing and bolts up to T3 bolt pattern. Here is a pic... http://www.geocities.com/pmcguff/PICS/TURBO2.JPG what is the vacuum/rod combo in lower corner? there is a wastegate bolted to the turbo already. oh yea, is there anyway to take off the intake/exhaust housing(s) and rotate it so the flanges for one or the other is in a better spot? as is, the intake air-exit-side hits the exhaust manifold when trying to bolt it up (stock L28ET manifold). Sorry for the ignorant questions, but i'm new to turbocharging. Thanks a lot, Patrick.

Sorry this isn't Z related, it's just that i haven't found any other forums that i would trust to describe the proper method of sitting on a toilet, let alone something like this. But, i was wondering how difficult/expensive it would be to swap the 4 speed auto out of my 98 dakota R/T for a 5 speed or other manual transmission? I know i would need flywheel, clutch/pressure plate, master and slave cylinders, possibly a shortened/lengthened driveshaft, clutch and new brake pedal, and actual transmission. is there anything else? would my computer be ok with the swap? i don't really know anything about automatics, but i don't like them. they don't shift up OR down when i want, and never seem to be in the right gear to go. and could i get all of this at a salvage yard out of a similar year dakota? Sorry so many questions, i might try a $50 B&M shift kit first, but i'm not sure that will cure my dislike for the tranny or not. Thanks in advance. Pat.

i don't mind the pickups as much as the idiot minivan drivers that think they're in formula 1 cars, still waiting to see one roll.

There is a guy driving around where i work with a grand am GT with DUAL fart cans, i keep wanting to humiliate him, but i haven't seen him on the road in a good place to play. It won't be in my Z either because that is at my parents house waiting modification, but i think my dakota R/T might give him a run. Or how about a ford ranger with dual 3" exhaust? i did "race" him, he tried leaving me at a light, or i wouldn't have raced at all, so i floored it, spun the tires and flew by, all the while being drowned out by an obnoxious sewing machine noise. i got a good chuckle over that one, especially that he was drowning out a 360 cubic inch with true dual 2.5" exhaust lol. i'm 21 (only slightly older than the ricer crowd i think) and i can't stand them, i've made it my mission to humiliate as many as possible. http://www.geocities.com/pmcguff/PICS/RT1.JPG Pat.

Just picked this up a week or so before christmas and put the Z at my parents house where it awaits a turbo. http://www.geocities.com/pmcguff/PICS/RT1.JPG http://www.geocities.com/pmcguff/PICS/RT2.JPG I like it, i can't really tell if its a lot quicker than the Z or not based off seat-of-the-pants, but its got hella more torque thats for sure. Playin with a buddy, i punched it at 45mph and sent it sideways because of the cold and salty, albeit dry, ground. Best story so far is pulling up to a ford ranger with dual three inch exhause (at least for the foot or so before the tips lol) that was obviously a four banger by the obnoxious noise. well he tried to leave me when the light turned so i punched it from the rolling start i was initially doing, quick squeal of the tires and i was gone, 7-8 car lengths by the time i hit 40mph (speed limit), i couldn't even hear mine over the top of his racket too. It has the stock 360cib, true dual exhaust with cross over, lowered 2" front, 3" rear and 275/55/17 tires that will get changed to 275/40/17s when these wear out. Pat.

Food for thought, and only my opinion, but...head gasket failure is cheaper and less fatal to an engine than say, blowing a rod bearing (or dropping a rod all together). and O-ringing the block, head or both greatly reduces the chance of blowing a head gasket. its just my opinion, but i think you shouldn't do the o-ring and leave the headgasket as the fussible link of the engine internals. Pat.