DavyZ Posted September 28, 2002 Share Posted September 28, 2002 Stupid me. I got so caught up the rest of the thread I failed to see the FIRST post that said it all. My bad. Davy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike C Posted October 1, 2002 Share Posted October 1, 2002 Thanks Tim. I'll shoot some photos of the 3 different starters I have so far and share what I know about them. I have rebuilt one with the parts from two and it bench tests fine. The little starters I have don't just have a stamped plate over the end. There is the nose, then a permanent magnet "stage", about 2" long, then an end cap. The end cap is kind of a one piece cylinder about 2" long instead of just flat. This makes the disassembled starter have 3 basic "stages" as I saw it. The end cap houses a pretty neat 1 piece brush assembly, and the middle piece is just some enclosed permanent magnets. The armature has a bushing in the end cap and in the back of the bendix. The shaft that goes into the bendix has 3 small planet gears that engage with it, then they all fit into a sun gear approx the size of the case. The bendix then has a roller bearing on the end where it is supported by the case. Very nice little starter, but it sounds different from the one most of the LT1s have. I'll get pics and start a more relevent thread... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim240z Posted October 7, 2002 Author Share Posted October 7, 2002 Maybe this is common knowledge, but obviously wasn't for me! I couldn't find any weld in O2 Sensor bungs locally (and Summit or Jegs wants the price of the parts in handling fees ). So I went to the local parts store and bought a pair of 18mm spark plug anti-foul extensions. I cut off the male thread and welded them in. Works like a dream for less than half the cost of the actual bungs!! Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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