Guest Anonymous Posted November 27, 2002 Share Posted November 27, 2002 This is a question for the techies out there. I'm in the process of installing a Haltech E6K Fuel/Ignition computer and need a hand with something. I'm going to be controlling the idle on my L28ET engine using the stock AAC valve and modulator. The E6K can control the modulator for the AAC valve using one of its four PWM outputs. I need to know what the "Base Frequency†of the Pulse Width Modulated signal is on a stock 280ZXT. This is the frequency of the control signal used to control the AAC Valve, not the duty cycle. The duty cycle will vary based on what vacuum requirements are needed to control the idle speed, but the overall frequency of the control signal will not change. It’s this frequency that I need. If someone has a scope, frequency counter or information from the ECCS manual, could you please check this and let me know. Right now I've got a value of about 27Hz set in the E6K. The closer I am to the right number, the more efficient the modulator's solenoid will run. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cody 82 ZXT Posted November 28, 2002 Share Posted November 28, 2002 Sorry can't help you with the info. on the AAC but, I am curious as to why you are going to use it and not just take it off? Seems, like that is what most people do when they go to an aftermarket F.I. system. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest jt240z Posted November 28, 2002 Share Posted November 28, 2002 I'm using the AAC Valve for dynamic idle control. Since I'm adding Air and expect to drive the car every day (cold days too) I'd like to compensate for idle speed based on temp, load and startup conditins. The Haltech E6K has provisions to control either a GM Idle Air Control Motor or a BAC(Bypass Air Control) valve. The stock Nissan 280ZX turbo AAC valve is in essence a BAC valve with the modulator remote mounted. I can use one of the PWM outputs and retain the stock idle control. The idle speed control software in the E6K will allows me to change idle speed without any screw adjustments. I can specify the base idle speed along with idle up speeds for various conditions. If all works out right I may even be able to use the EGR side of the modulator to control my waist gate. It's also a little different from what others are doing, so that makes it special. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted November 29, 2002 Share Posted November 29, 2002 I'd mount a GM motor - it's easier and "known". As for boost control - use the GM Typhoon boost solenoid. It's CHEAP and the AEM EMS users are having great success with it. The Apexi boost solenoid is another one that's being used and is supposed to be able to bypass more air.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest jt240z Posted November 29, 2002 Share Posted November 29, 2002 I thought the purpose of this site was to explore the unknown. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
randy 77zt Posted November 30, 2002 Share Posted November 30, 2002 i have a 77 with 81zxt powwer with factory air.i dont use the aac valve.it just idles a little fast-1000 rpm.i have seen a holder with hose fittings on each end for a gm iac solonoid.i dont know who made it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted November 30, 2002 Share Posted November 30, 2002 Originally posted by jt240z:I thought the purpose of this site was to explore the unknown. Sure but why beat you head against the wall on something as simple as this? Making extra work for yourself doesn't seem to make sense. GM IACs darned near fall out of trees and finding out the details to setup the $15 dollar Typhoon solenoid is cake too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest jt240z Posted December 1, 2002 Share Posted December 1, 2002 OK, you've got me curious. Who has a GM IAC motor manifold block with two hose ends? Where can I find information on the Typhoon boost controller? I'm not trying to beat my head against a wall, I'm just gathering information in order to make a final decision. It seemed simple enough to just run the original equipment idle control since the Haltech had provisions to use it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted December 1, 2002 Share Posted December 1, 2002 I've seen conversion blocks for the GM IAT somewhere, I thought it was Electromotive but I'm not seeing it there -> http://www.electromotive-inc.com/sensors.html I'll look around and see what I can find. Here you can find information on a great number of sensors, you could even ask about finding an IAT with nipples actually -> http://www.aempower.com/bbs/viewforum.php?f=18 http://www.aempower.com/bbs/viewtopic.php?t=78 and http://www.aempower.com/bbs/viewtopic.php?t=507 should be helpful for the boost solenoid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest jt240z Posted December 2, 2002 Share Posted December 2, 2002 Thanks for info BLKMGK. I'll look into using the GM IAC Motor and 2 port body from Electromotive. That would fit my needs quite well since the Haltech can control the IAC directly. The boost solenoid seems to fit well also. I'll let you know how it all goes. The Haltech should be a great learning experience. I still can't belive that no one on this list is using one on their L28 Turbo. The E6K seems to be made for it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted December 16, 2002 Share Posted December 16, 2002 I wouldn't give up on the stock AAC valve quite so quickly. You already have the thing mounted to your intake and it has a stock look to it. I would just experiment with the different frequencies until you find one that is suitable for what you need. Hook up the haltech to the AAC solenoid and play around with it and see what happens. I wouldn't expect it would hurt anything. I am also looking into purchasing a Haltech unit and might do the same to control idle. Where did you purchase your haltech controller and how much did it cost? Thanks. -jeremy- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest jt240z Posted December 17, 2002 Share Posted December 17, 2002 I think I am going to try to use the existing AAC valve and modulator to control my idle and use the Typhoon boost solenoid to control the boost level. I have a new AAC valve from Nissan and the modulator is in good working order, so I think it would be an interesting experiment to see how well the Haltech will control my idle. I just need to configure the software to use the modulator as a Bypass Air Control valve. I bought my Haltech direct from Australia of eBay. The total cost for the E6K flying loom kit including air temp and coolent temp sonsors, 3 BAR MAP sensor, all terminating connectors, 3 channel igniter module and 6 pack coil for waisted spark was right at $1250.00 including shipping to the USA. This was a full factory supported unit with warrenty. I'm going to use my newly constructed version 1.5 DIY OZ Wide Band O2 analyzer to do my base tuning. This should get me very close. This is quite a good kit by the way. I then plan on doing my final tuning on a local dyno. Haltech Australia supplied me with a base fuel and ignition MAP to get the engine started. I just gave them the specifiaction on my engine and what injectors I planned on using, and they sent me the MAP to get her started. The MAP was even setup to use the stock NISSAN optical trigger as the ignition input with wasted spark coils as my ignition output. I'm starting the wiring tomorrow, so it should be coming along quite well soon. I just spent the better part of a week getting the engine in and routing the intercooler and fresh air intake lines. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cody 82 ZXT Posted December 17, 2002 Share Posted December 17, 2002 Sounds intreasting. Keep us posted on how it turns out. What did the DIY o2 system cost you? What do you think about it? I looked into it a few months ago but, never really pursued it much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted December 17, 2002 Share Posted December 17, 2002 The DIY-WB O2 analyzer works quite well. This unit is FAR more accurate then any standard led narrow band sensor. The newest version 1.5 will give you a digital display (~10.5 to 25 AFR) output along with a linear 0 to 5V output that many ECU's require. It also has provisions to log 2 additional inputs. The total cost for the main kit and display module kit was right at around $110.00 and the 5 wire NTK sensor was an additional $134.00. Finding the sensor is the most difficult part. Most sources are world wide back ordered. Soon they will be offering the Version 2.0 kit that should be even more accurate and support the Bosch LSU sensor. This sensor is more available. You can see what they have at: http://www.techedge.com.au/vehicle/wbo2/ There is no way to properly tune a car using the normaly available NB sensors. The only information you get is stoich. Anything above or below is just a guess. Wide band rules. Now back to the rats nest of wiring. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest De Schmaydee Posted December 17, 2002 Share Posted December 17, 2002 ...not sure about the electrical signal characteristics of the modulator but the "new" oem aac valves have an adjustment screw on 'em.....which oughtta help get it right....s Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted December 18, 2002 Share Posted December 18, 2002 You're right, the new AAC valve came with an adjustment screw to set the initial air bypass volume. The down side is that you have to also buy the upgrade parts which include an adapter plate and longer studs. The total cost is around $160.00 for everything. At least it's not a Honda part, they wanted $380.00 for the 5 wire O2 sensor. The same part (NTK) that I bought at the Parts Bin for $134.00 delivered. Some OEM's are just too proud of their parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted December 19, 2002 Share Posted December 19, 2002 How good were the instructions with the new kit? Are we talking Heathkit or "here's a schematic and a list of corrections to it - good luck!"? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted December 19, 2002 Share Posted December 19, 2002 The version 1.0 kit is well documented on the Tech Edge web site. You can go to the web site listed above and read all the documents including schematics, assembly instructions, alignment procedures and drawings. You do need some generally good soldering and assembly skills and a DVM to align the unit. The only documentation that comes with in the kit is a parts placement and value drawing. The 1.5 kit is new and all the documentation is not up yet. I haven't received my 1.5 kit yet, so I can't tell you what documentation comes with it. For those unable or unwilling to do the kit assembly, they do offer ready assembled kits at a reasonable price. For even further information, you can go to the Yahoo groups site and search for OZ-DIY-O2 and you'll see an entire support group with additional information. Anyone considering tuning a car, with any hope of getting good accuracy at all, should consider getting a WB O2 analyzer. It makes the job so much easier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted December 19, 2002 Share Posted December 19, 2002 With all the info. on this tread about WB O2, I still haven't got the info. I needed. Does anyone out there have the PWM base frequency for the stock AAC Valve? That would be the constant frequency, not the pulse width. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bernardd Posted December 29, 2002 Share Posted December 29, 2002 The guy at this site http://imflame.ricetek.net/~darkhalf/eccs/eccs.html says it's 160hz. Bernard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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