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OK, Now I'm totally confused....


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Grumpy,

I think there was something lost in the translation... That motor was a special built crate motor USING ARP STUDS (although not top of the line wave locs on the rod bolts) and using a braced oil pickup tube (Another member here saw the parts on Saturday and can attest to the construction, build and parts used) and I HAD NO IDEA what happened. I dropped the pan to do a re-ring and send the parts off for an internal balance only and found this stuff... NOT what I expected.. THAT IS THE POINT! ANd the parts had some balancing to them... The parts appear to have been weight matched... ugg.gif

 

I just bought the rods you found me on ebay and I'm bidding right now on some WISECO forged units and will probably win those...

 

Mike

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Guest JAMIE T

I saw Mikes engine this weekend. The pistons have drilled spots that indicate is WAS balanced. Also, the rods have the balance pads removed from both ends. The crank has light grooves on the rod journals that are too deep to polish out. Apparently the crank is a cast steel Scat unit, at least thats what the builder told Mike. The crank turns very smoothly in the mains without the rods attached. I think the engine was externally balanced, which IMHO is fine for this type of engine. That is assuming the balancing was done properlay and the engine is assembled with quality components. That 383cid doesn't need to spin past 6250rpm to make RELIABLE power. Mike, I say get you some quality rods(they will come with ARP 7/16" capscrew bolts), forged pistons(you get what you pay for), and get that new assembly balanced. Score a road race pan(it should come with a windage tray, or at least baffles), and a new pump/pickup assembly. If you are getting a Canton pan, and it does not have a windage tray, they sell them specifically for their pans. Thats what I did with my Canton pan in the mustang.

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Well I just won another bid on ebay for some Wiseco forged pistons (For a 6inch 383 combo) and plasma ring set for $419... So far I'm $730 in the hole for rods, rings and pistons... Now I need to ferry everything up to Pete's recommended shop and have it all (Crank, rods, pistons, flywheel, and balancer) balanced after the crank is turned. I suppose I'll be getting them to order the bearings while they have everything. I'll also have to send my block out to have it checked and honed. And of course I'll need a good pump and a good connection for a Canton Road Race pan, dip stick and windage tray.

 

Should have done this in the first place... Somebody buy my Engine parts!!!

Mike

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I plan on balancing the rotating assembly of the LT1 I plan to build up but I was wondering what the benefits are of blueprinting an engine? Is it worth it to do this on a street engine putting out about 450hp or is it a waste of money that should be invested on other hipo parts?

 

Marcos :confused:

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blue printing an engine is basically just getting everything machined to the perfect specs, now in the real world chevy does a reasonably good job and if you get super exact on makeing everything perfect the machine shop will build a new wing in your honnor with the money you spend getting everything to that last .oooo1 inch clearance but your engine will only gain a few hp over your average QUALITY ENGINE BUILD UP, buy a few BETTER QUALITY PARTS WITH THE MONEY , don,t put your machinists kids through YALE or HARVARD

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Guest Anonymous

Just for reference guys I paid $515.00 for my Lunati Pro Mod 6.125" rods and $353.00 for the matching forged flat top pistons... at cost!!!?!!Mark that up by 1.5X and you get retail!! Thank heavens that I got my small journal 327 forged crank for less than $150.00, heck, it was even 10/10 already, magged, and inspected. Speed costs money, lots of it... you wouldn't want to die old and rich would ya...? malebitchslap.gif

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