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LS1 LT1 LT4 LS6 questions


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I'm considering buying a used motor. After a serious bout with cabin fever I started pricing take out motors not that bad when I factor in the cost of the parts I still need for the 383. The question is, what are the differences between the LS1 LT1 LS6 etc? What is the best to adapt for the Z cars? I'm one that cant leave well enough alone, so what one is the best to mod, and at what costs? I'm looking for around 400 RWHP @ 400 FT LBS RWTQ. is this out of line with the new style motors? Keith

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Hey... here are some answers for you...

 

LT1 - Iron block 5.7L v8 ..puts out around 240rwhp stock

 

LS1 - Aluminum block 5.7L v8 ..puts out from 300-320rwhp stock (AND it's lightweight)

 

LS6 - a beefed up LS1 (new cam, intake manifold, etc.) and puts out approx. 375-386rwhp stock

 

When buying a used engine for your application, any of the above engines would be a great choice. Since you are looking for 400rwhp, an LS6 would nearly get you there with a bone stock engine... however, the LS6 will cost you some extra cash. I picked up an LS1 with an automatic transmission and ECU/wiring harness for $3400 with only 40,000 miles on it. I would recommend going with an LS1 and throwing a cam and possibly some heads on there. You'll spend about the same doing that as you would trying to buy an LS6 block, AND with some decently ported heads/cam.. you cam easily make 400 - 425rwhp on the stock LS1 block.

 

Since the LS1 is fairly new.. mods are going to be more expensive than they would be for an LT1... but you have to decide exactly what you want to do. The LS1 will give you more power and less weight, and the LT1 would cost a little less to maintain and mod... but the extra mods you would need for the LT1 to make up for the extra power it needs to match the LS1 would probably even out the cost of your mods for an LS1.

 

400rwhp/400rwtq is VERY easy to get to on any of those engines... hell, you could throw a 100 wet shot of NOS on the LS1 and be at your numbers instantly, but it's all up to you on what approach you are going to make to gaining that power.

 

There are a few guys here with LS1's in their Datsuns that could provide some more info that I may have left out so keep asking and I'm sure you'll get exactly what answers you are looking for. Feel free to let me know if I can be of any more help! :D

 

-Vann

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Pretty valid, most stick LT1s will put out about 250 RW stock, and most LS1s 290-305 RW stock.

 

You could make those numbers on a stock bottom, but making 400 RWTQ you'd end up with probably 430 RWHP on an LT1. With an LS1 they make RWHP easily, there are hydraulic roller guys runnin 222/230 with ported heads making 422 RWHP. I ran about a 10º larger hydraulic to make 411 RWHP and 385 RWTQ, I had an ignition miss costing me about 600 RPM worth of power, so I dont know the ultimate potential of my combo.

 

Since the LS1 is Gen 3, rebuilding one to get a 381 etc is going to cost you a buttload of money. The LT1 is still SBC like, so a rebuild is pretty "cheap", if you wanted a 383. If you go LS1, expect to make your power on the stock bottom or expect to pay out of the rear end. Rockers cost $599 last I checked for them, sounds pricey doesn't it?

 

So basically hop up stuff is 2-3 times as expensive for the LS1. Keep in mind the LS1 is a very different beast in terms of power output, HP is high and TQ is not the same, just like the L98 is a TORQUE MONSTER but HP is seriously lacking, this is due to design.

 

As a point of reference, a stock headed 93 with a "bad tune" (supposedly) made ~400 RWHP with a 244/244 -114 solid roller. Fairly big cam but probably made bottom end power like mine did due to being a solid, stock heads is obviously not optimal but its "cheap."

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With those hop-up prices I think I'll stick with the 383 I have sitting here. It has all the machine work done new forged pistons and detailed con rods and a cast crank I'll just have to buy a killer set of heads and a matched cam. oh well Same old story speed costs how fast can you afford?? Keith

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