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Looking at 240 today, need help!!


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Okay, I am currently looking for a Z to chevrolize. Just so happens there is one in the local paper. 1973 240 "could be restored" $800. Sounds like it could be a basket case but I think it may be worth looking at. I am worried about rust confused2.gif especially since Im in the south. What specifically should I look for? I am sure there is some sort of buyers guide out there I just cant seem to find it.

 

Thanks

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Get a scratch awl or a sharp phillips screwdriver. Lift up the carpeting, scratch and poke hard. On my car, I could easily poke a hole thru the rusty metal. Same with the area under the battery tray.

 

I searched and searched and I couldn't find any cars when I looked. So, even though my car was rusty, I bought it anyway and fixed the rust (replaced with 14ga). It was a pain in the ass to be sure, but, I wanted a Z car, so.....

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Rust free Z cars are very tough to find, but it is well worth the effort in the long run. I paid $1,200 for a rusty 240 and ended up scraping it in the end. Ultimately found a rust free 260 project car and purchased that. Upon further inspection I found a botched collision repair that is going to set me back another $1,500 to repair. bonk.gif

 

The moral of this story: look the car over very well, put it on a lift and poke all around the floors, frames, quarters and rockers. You must factor in time and money for any necessary repairs, both have been the killers for me. Don't jump on the first Z you find, I guarantee it will be cheaper in the long run to pay a little more for a rust free car. Just my $0.02 though.

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Also bring a magnet since you can't go poking holes in to the body work. Move the magnet around the body and anywhere it doesn't stick, there's rust or bondo or filler.

 

If you can, check the condition of the weather stripping. I pulled my shield last nite and there's major rust underneath the stripping where water accumulated, especially in the corners.

 

Basic areas are entire floors, frame rails, rocker panels and rear deck lid.

 

Let us know how it turns out.

 

Owen

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Well guys, I ended up buying it! I may end up being sorry but it was just too good to pass up. I ended up talking him down to $350. He had told me that the floor boards needed to be replaced. When I got there it was in pretty bad shape. The body seems to be straight but there is a lot of surface rust (I wish I could shoot the man who put a vinal top on it)! There is one little hit place on the rear quarter next to the tail light. He has the floorboards and kick plates and has already cut out the passenger side. From what I could tell the frame rails looked good. There was some surface rust but I didnt see anything going all the way through. It runs and I should be able to sell the engine and trans.

 

Wish me luck!

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Guest gbvol54

utvolman99,

 

Based on our login names and the fact we are on this site we have at least a couple of things in common: Vol fans and V-8 Z's (though it's tough being a UT fan during this particular basketball season). Good luck with the Z. I've got a '73, and building (slowly but surely) a decent SBC 350. It's the details that are the budget killer.

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GBVOL54, its great to see that there is another Vol fan on the board! Dont worry about basketball, football is right around the corner! 2thumbs.gif2thumbs.gif I too now have a 73 240. Im taking it home to knoxville (currently live in Chattanooga) tomorrow after work. My father runs a shop behind the house and I will be needing his help to weld in floor pans. I also have some ideas on keeping engine cost down. I will let you know how it goes!

 

Go Vols! rockon.gif

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