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About Jeff

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    HybridZ Supporter
  • Birthday 09/09/1962

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    Orlando, Fl

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  1. I would say that is right on the mark. I'm the guy that weighed his bare body shell, early 260Z, on 4 bathroom scales and my result was 520 lbs. I found the old files on a hosting site I haven't paid for in years but unbelievably they're still there. Fifth picture down shows it being weighed. My 260Z beign weighed
  2. I did the front frame rails first with it on the ground and no bracing. We hung doors, fenders and hood back on it and everything lined up great, no worries. I then put it on the rotisserie, put the 1x3 frame rails in, cut out the floors & replaced one side at the time. Did all of that without any bracing and I paid a big price. The body shop was pretty far into it before they hung the fenders and hood again only to discover that the front of the drivers frame rail was 1 1/2" higher than the passenger side. It had to be put on a frame table and pulled back into shape but the good news is I now know it's square and straight. That was a costly lesson, so yes make sure you brace yours well. I would cross brace the interior from the front edge of the inner rocker to the opposite strut tower but hopefully someone that has actually done it will chime in.
  3. My car had to be clipped in front of the strut towers due to a previous hack repair job. We discovered that the frame rails had been covered with body filler to hide the wrinkles so new frame rails were in order too. We removed the frame rails and replaced them with 2 1/2" x 2 1/2" square tube which was close in size to the factory ones and then took 1x3 tube steel under the floors and tied them to the rear factory subframe. The 1x3's add a fair amount of strength and give you some much needed jack points instead of the factory ones that are always crushed. The challenge was mating the 1x3 & 2 1/2" tube together at the base of the firewall. I believe that structurally it's sound but not the prettiest joint. You have to be under the car to see it. We removed the factory core support and put in a simple bolted one but I know it's weaker torsionally than the factory unit. I never finished the car and it's tucked away in storage right now but when I get back to it I'm probably going to go with a braced welded in unit. Here are some pics to see what was done and just food for thought. Added a plate as a gusset and TC bucket tie in. I did media blast every square inch and apply some good epoxy primer before the body work started. Should have done that before the metal work. Engine compartment all smoothed out and ready for color.
  4. I love the fact that you've left the front bumper on it as a visual break point for the grill. When the grill is fully exposed it just feels out of proportion to me. I also like how you've pulled the lower lip of the front spoiler under instead of forward. Following the wheel arch line just makes the whole thing flow very nicely. I would actually prefer it without the splitter, but that's just my taste and I realize that it's probably quite functional. Looking forward to seeing the side view(s).
  5. No, it's just an opinion and I should have stated it that way. I just assumed that anything that smelled that way would be damaging to the foam but I've been wrong before.
  6. Yes, brake clean on upholstery is a very bad idea. I would use SImple Green concentrate, not mixed with water yet, and spray a small amount on the oil stain. Take a clean dry towel and blot the spot, do not rub! I'll repeat it, do not rub! Repeat this until no more oil is transferring to the rag and then take a clean wet cloth and rub the spot to start getting the Simple Green out. Once the area is wet you can blot it with a dry cloth to help get the Simple Green out and repeat. It's worked on some greasy stains for me in the past. Good luck with whatever method you choose. I've also had great luck with a foaming cleaner called Tuff Stuff but it's probably too weak for this. It does clean up an interior really well though!
  7. I did 1x3 subframes on mine but also replaced the floor pans with custom built ones that are flat on the bottom. I replaced the front frame rails with 2x2 as well so the front tie in is different from stock rails. Here's what mine looks like and we capped the open ends of the 1x3 with a piece of sheet metal welded solid.
  8. I don't have any of the measurements you're looking for but I do have the plans that I followed to build my rotisserie and photo references of the completed build. I believe that the rotation point was around 27" down from the top of the 60" upright. The car would rotate 360 degrees but I never quite got the balance right so I could still rotate it alone but it was a bit of a challenge. Plans I followed are here. Photo references are here.
  9. Money received and will ship out priority mail on Monday. Thanks for an easy transaction.
  10. I originally bought it from my best friend and now he has it back again. I will be highly involved in the build and wind up with full access to it in the end. All the Z stuff is with the car still.
  11. Up for sale is one of the original kits Juan from JSK produced to utilize massive 12.2"x1.25" curved vane directional rotors and FORGED 4 piston Wilwood calipers. This is a 4 lug setup and you must run a 280z hub. This is intended for racing and was one of the earliest options we had for truly good brakes. Price is $125 shipped to the continental US. You will need to source the rotors, calipers, pads and brake lines. (See Ebay links for examples) All hardware and installation instructions are included. I don't have my Z anymore and my buddy who now has it doesn't want to run these for some reason. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Wilwood-Brake-Rotor-32-Directional-Vane-Carbon-Iron-Psgr-Side-Universal-1602894-/191954357091?hash=item2cb15f0b63:g:DUsAAOSwgZ1Xv23W&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/itm/Wilwood-Brake-Rotor-Series-32-Directional-Vane-Carbon-Iron-Natural-Drv-Side-Univ-/191404092017?hash=item2c9092aa71:g:o7gAAOSwrklVAT8a&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/itm/Wilwood-Forged-Superlite-Internal-Brake-Caliper-120-11127-/191983652353?hash=item2cb31e0e01:g:AGMAAOSwcUBYI3kF&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/itm/Wilwood-Pad-Set-BP-10-7420-FSL-SL4-6-/232272402336?hash=item36148397a0:g:pKoAAOSwXYtYyd4U&vxp=mtr
  12. My Trans Am is down for the count right now and I don't have the funds to get it back together before the event. This is the "School" or the infield course and it's a lot of fun. I've instructed a few times with them and it has always been a quality event. I encourage anyone who has been thinking about doing a 2 day track event to try this first and see if you like it. Here is some video from several years ago https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fmTnx_EslMc
  13. My completely bare 260Z body shell weighed 520 lbs. if that helps any.
  14. I replaced the front frame rails and installed subframe connectors so yes I tied it together while I was doing that much work. That top brace was originally on a friends 240Z with a V8 swap and it held up just fine with factory frame rails. I know I have pictures of his car somewhere but they're either on a disk or an old removable hard drive.
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