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Rust converter/inhibitor etc etc


drunkenmaster

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Looking at the clock, suprisingly I have just spent 3 hours reading "back logs" on this topic from this forum, very interesting but now if I could clear up a few issues it would be great.

 

With a fresh coat of paint on the outside and engine bay of my '74 260Z, It's time to attack the inside. I can see some visible surface rust in the passenger foot well and some more creeping through the sealant inbetween the tool compartments and tyre well.

 

What I was hoping to do was scrape/wire brush/wire-wheel the interior floor pan back to metal, hopefully the surface rust is just that and gets brushed off, then re-seal and sound deaden it.

 

My question is, from what I read POR15 is pretty popular among Hybridz members but from what I gather it is an inhibitor for the furture, not a treatment for current rust?

 

If this is the case, should i use a rust converter on the troubled areas (even assuming I can scrub the rust off) and then apply POR15? Any recommendations on converters?

 

Or is there another way I should attack this problem?

 

In regards to sound deadening, I saw a lot of member using "bed liner", im not sure what this is but it looks similar to bitumen under body deadener. Is this stuff safe to paint on directly over the top of the POR15?

 

Another thing I am worried about is the underside of the floor pan, but the previous owner promised he had scraped all the deadener off the underside, fixed the only minor rust he found and applied new deadener, but judging by the nasty suprises i found on the exterior body, i am quite wary.....aside from stripping the underside deadener, I guess there is no way to check this.

 

Thanks Guys

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I think I can help you here - I just bought POR15 and used it. The instructions clearly state that you can use POR15 over rust as it needs the rough surface to cling too. Seems weird as you would think you would need to get the rust completely off and get the metal to a shiny surface with a wire brush or a sanding disc on a grinder like in the old days. The instruction manual says if the rust is very heavy to just take a wire brush to it, surface rust is OK just apply the POR15 to it.

 

Before you even add the POR15 you have to:

1) De-grease the surface with their proprietry Marine Clean sparay

2) Apply their proprietry Metal Ready spray

3) Then its POR15 time

4) POR15 cannot be exposed to UV, so the you may have to paint ontop of it with their proprietry Primer

5) Then you can paint ontop of this surface with any paint (like Rustoleum) if you like

 

I called and spoke to their TechLab guy for ages before deciding and made sure I knoew what the sequence of steps were, as I knew they were very critical. The POR15 has to be pretty weird nifty stuff as the instructions clearly state "If a drop of sweat fall off your chin or whatever and into the POR15 it is contaminated and throw it away as it will have lost its rust inhibitive qualities!" <--- isn't that wild?

 

On the underside its ok to use the spray on bedliner or Asphalt undercoating (which is no available as a product that you can paint over the of).

 

Hope that helps - Yasin

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Guest Zachb55

If your still worried, or dont feel like spending as much money, then you can always use a product called OSPHO. all you do it spay it on lightly after brushing the original rust off and then let it dry overnight. it stops rust from growing anymore and then all i do after that is sand and spray on a good coat of primer, its worked fine for me so far.

 

-Zach

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Guest Zachb55

Thats alot like what OSHPHO does, it turns the rust into black stuff and whats saveable turns back into what seems strong and weldable metal. I got my OSPHO at the local true value store, you could probly find it at one of those or at a Home Depot or something.

 

-Zach

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I used a product called Rustmort that I got at my local paint store when I painted my car in high school. It was thin like water and you brushed it on (used an old toothbrush). It turned the rust black, and you could then sand/grind/prime it just like regular metal. I had the car for 2 years afterwards, and had no return of the rust. I would/will use this product or something similar in the future.

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I have used POR15 for years and I have had no problems with it. The P-O-R stands for paint over rust. The ruffer the surface, the better it bonds and it cures faster and harded when it comes in contact with moisture. If you want your POR15 to dry faster you spritz it with water. Just remove the loose rust, degrease and start painting. I have used the POR 15 engine paint kit which is working great and I have painted all of my suspension parts with the product without error. Just check out my website listed below and you can see how well it looks.

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As a sales rep for Zep Manufacturing I can say that I sell a Rust Conversion Coating called "Rustarrester". It chemically converts existing rust and corrosion into a moisture-free, black protective coating. The resulting surface is then ready for painting or other treatment without additional priming. We also sell a Rubberized undercoating, sound deadener and corrosion Inhibitor product in a aerosol. If anybody is interested, e-mail me, I can sell just above wholesale!

 

Mark

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nice site' date=' wish i had a rotisserie :cry:

 

How did you find the POR15 silver high temp paints? the finish is hard to see[/quote']

 

I ordered all my POR15 stuff from their internet site. http://www.por15.com

 

hehe, sorry by "find" I meant "like".

 

ie. How did you like the POR15 silver high temp paints? the finish is hard to see

 

We had a friend stay over from the US over christmas and its amazing how many times little things caused confusion, little nuances in the english language from country to country. :)

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