drunkenmaster

I found an in situation photo here if that helps identification: http://www.viczcar.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=846&fullsize=1

Thanks, thats an interesting idea. My car is a manual but thats not to say that it wasnt perhaps born an auto. Attached is a picture of the only plug in the area which looks like it fits. The wire count and colours do not line up, but it physically fits. I'm particularly curious about this plug as I have traced the starter wire from the ignition switch to here and no where else. So if it does connect to this box, I dont know how the starter motor used to get the start signal. It has 4 wires which I have traced as follows: Black x2 - Ground, Green/Yellow - Instrument gauges, Black/Yellow - Ignition switch (start)

I didnt want to start another "what's this" thread, but I couldnt find another generic one to piggy back onto. Perhaps one could be made a sticky as I know these kind of questions get asked from time to time and it could become a graphical glossary of electrical components? Anyhow, I am rewiring my 260Z and I have found a round plug that has 2 black ground wires, a black/yellow ignition switch wire and a green/yellow wire which leads to the guages. Going through my parts bin and general location of the plug (engine room side wall) I believe it must connect to the relay or similar looking device underneath my fusible link bracket next to the voltage regulator. Any ideas what this is? I expected the black/yellow to run straight to the starter. NOTE: This is a RHD car so wire colours may differ. Thanks

Thanks for the info. Do you know how wiring the lamp connection direct to IGN works? I thought it would need some resistance from the bulb? Also did you simply disconnect all the ext. voltage reg gear and leave unused? Thanks again

Can someone please have a look at the attached schematic sketch I have done to try and summarise the connections described in this thread. I think visual aids are easy to convey technical data, but thats just me. I am sure there are corrections required by those who have done this before!

Is anyone kind enough to do a rough sketch of how to wire the RB25DET alternator into the S30? Is it just a matter of finding the other ends of the RB25DET alternator "S" and "L" wiring and connecting them to ON and BAT and adding a diode facing the "S" terminal? Looking at the wiring diagrams I am thinking if you dont care about the ammeter you can remove a lot of wiring from ext. voltage regulator and shunt etc and not worry about the atlanticzcar/zcarcreations type ext. voltage regulator short circuiting. I havent been as lucky in finding R33 diagrams as I have been with the S30, but I would think you would not use any of the Z wiring for the charging system?

I know it's been years, but I finally have time to get back on with the Z and am keen to know why my heater pipes don't mate up like everyone elses! Heres the long promised photo, you can see the RB25DET pipes fit too loosely over the Z inlet/outlet. Thanks

Check post number #86 of the thread for the diagram with terminal ID's you're confused about.

Rocky Auto is in Okazaki in Aichi Prefecture, neighbouring Nagano. They have a bunch of Z's there, half of them with RB swaps. Interesting to have a look but there is not much you can buy there. Autobacs is like your Autobarn type store but better, and upgarage is used parts mainly. Both are chains which are everywhere, and of course focussed more on late model cars.

Thats the second time someone has told me the heater lines mated up on theirs. I will get some measurements/photos. As for the cannister, my car is a post-emmisions '77

Hi Guys, 2 quick questions for you all: 1) I have a S2 RB25DET in my 260Z, however the heater water lines from the RB are larger diameter than the fittings protruding through the firewall from the 260Z heater. How are people reducing the water lines or increasing the 260Z hard fittings to match? 2) The RB carbon cannister is on the exhaust side of the engine and 260Z lines to the tank are on the intake side (i.e. opposite), how have people routed the lines/mounted the cannister to suit this? Thanks

Check the last page of the wiring guide up the top, i circled which one you need as it wasn't clear. It is the larger one for the EFI circuits you need.

Great, thanks for the info.

Did you run your lift pump from the same relay as the EFI pump (i.e. fuel pump relay)? Thanks

Try this out

In answering my own question 1. above, yes it would seem you only need the larger white interconnect, not both as pictured.

Guys, 1. Can I confirm that the "white connector" is only the larger white connector from the body harness as there are two inside the bracket pictured? I have traced all ECU connections to this larger interconnect and wonder if the smaller one can be disgarded. 2. It looks like the colours may be different on RHD Z's at the ignition switch, can anyone confirm that the black/white wire on the LHD Z's is blue on the RHD cars as pictured. 3. I only seem to have one relay near the ECU, not the "twins" in this tutorial, anyone know why that may be? maybe a series1/series2 thing? Thanks!

Excellent information here, thanks for your effort. One section I am unable to quite follow though is the above regarding the transmission harnesses. I think it is just the wording as it is quite brief and not quite as descriptive with colours and locations. Can someone please reword this for me? Is it referring to splicing wires and using both harnesses? Thanks!

My fabbed mount, also using all new steel tubing.

Do you think engine position with different engine mounts will affect whether this crossmember can be used? The crossmember to gearbox holes look ellonagated so looks like it will put up with a bit of variance.

Does it work with powerFC? In the past I was told the powerFC did not output to the consult connector.

Sounds good, look forward to seeing how the evaporator fits up behind the dash.

There is quite a bit of engineering experimentation on the RB series engines in Australia, this is one such example I imagine. The demand for front facing plenums is pretty high with show cars wanting to tidy up the engine bay and kids wanting shorter intercooler piping. Someone has just tried something new with a twin throttle setup. Wouldnt surprise me if not a lot of research went into flow though.

There was an LS1 240Z in the trading post last year in Melbourne. No idea on condition or what happened to it but the advertiser wanted $20,000 for it.

Thanks for the info, what RB block do you have? Any photos to share?