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Other cars with same offset.


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Guest Your Car is Slow

I think the 335s will fit on an 11" rim

 

315s will fit on a 10" without THAT much bulging :)

 

I will certainly have to do a set of fender flares...otherwise they are going to stick out like a champ.

 

Ill have to fit the tires to the car..and find out exactly how much the wheels will stick out then purchase the flares to match (or have some custom sheetmetal jobberdo to go on)

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I think the 335s will fit on an 11" rim

 

315s will fit on a 10" without THAT much bulging

 

There are educated people that wont even put a 315 on an 11" wheel, educated meaning experienced racers. 315s on a 9.5" wheel has been done, the result was a slower quarter mile, I forget how badly the 60' suffered, but I will say it left 4 stripes at takeoff, not 2.

 

Porsche puts a 275 on an 11" wheel on a race car (not your kind of race car I realize), and GM put a 285 on the 10.5" Z06 wheel. If your honestly drag racing though you shouldn't be using 17" or 18" wheels, I'd look for a 15" or 16" that a nice sloppy sidewall drag tire will fit on.

 

I know someone who ran 315s on a 10.5" wheel fairly successfully, until the wheel broke (Centerline), but again they are considered marginal even on an 11" wheel. You aren't going to see some magical contact patch with a tire that is too big for the wheel. I can post more info for those who are picky :)

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Guest Your Car is Slow

Interesting....Back in my Impala SS days..there were many people that widened a stock rear rim to 10" specifically to run a 315 size drag radial.

 

I dont mind going as big as possible on the rim to fit the 335...however I also dont want the rim/tire sticking out 8" from the side of the car :)

 

Keep goin...Id like to be as educated as possible prior to actually purchasing the rear rims/tires (which will be centerline auto drags and BFG drag radials)

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If widening wheels wasn't as expensive as getting new ones (close enough), then I'd maybe consider it, then again all I have to work with are 15x7" wheels so its not really worth it to me to work with em further.

 

What kind of profile is the tire? That makes a difference, if its a drag radial the sidewall will want to have some slop anyway, and you usually try to fit the tallest tire you can in there, although from what I've heard the 240Z wont take much, and it certainly appears true. I dont know if anyone is running beyond a 26/26.1" tire?

 

From an SCCA/NASA/Open Road racer's perspective:

 

FWIW - The extra rim width will make the tires "bigger": as the rim gets

wider in relation to the tread width, the change in the sidewall angle

under cornering load goes toward camber gain instead of camber loss,

so you get a better contact patch for a given alignment, with less static

camber needed so braking is more stable.

 

OK - More explanation: Under corning loads, the outside tires carry most

of the load (one of the inside tires may carry zero load), and the contact

patch will squirm towards the centerline of the car (HeadonPhotos has some

wonderful examples of this) as the G forces push the car outside. We have

aligned the car with some amount of negative camber in order to counteract

the roll of the car on its suspension in order to keep the tire contact patch

parallel to the ground. If the tread width is the same as the rim width,

visualize the front cross section of the tire under no load- the rim and

pavement are parallel, and the inner/outer sidewalls are parallel, forming

a rectangle. Under cornering loads, the sidewalls move the same amount, and

because they are parallel, the cross section forms a parellelogram, and the

contact patch stays parallel to the rim, and their is no camber gain/loss.

(There are undoubtably some small nonlinearities, but the example is valid,

bear with me). SO if we squeeze a fat tire on a skinny rim, now the sidewalls,

statically, are angled outward towards the contact patch, which is still

parallel to the rim. But under cornering loads, as the contact patch moves

towards the centerline of the car, the outer sidewall moves towards vertical,

extending it, while the inner sidewall is pushed to an even more extreme angle,

shortening the sidewall. Now the tread is not parallel to the rim, it is

further away on the outside and closer on the inside, exactly the opposite

of what we want - contact patch narrows and moves outward, and negates some

of the static camber that we alinged the car with, ergo camber loss.

Reverse the situation with a fat rim, skinny tire, and the outside sidewall

tucks under and the inner sidewall extends under cornering forces, and the

tread is angled relative to the rim in the same direction as the body roll,

creating camber gain, flat contact patch, and increased traction.

 

Regards,

Alan

 

This guy is our local racing superhero, he's been doing some kind of competitive motorsport since I think the early 70s. He's been in a few magazines, and makes his heavy Camaro competitive even against lighter Porsches, its a 4th gen so they dont get light easy either. With a full, and very heavy cage, he has the car right about 3k pounds. He doesn't run a full door to give you an idea how much work it takes, its just a skin with dsuz fastners.

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Guest Your Car is Slow

The tires in question are 345/55/15s

 

I originally thought they were 335s (perhaps now that extra 10mm will put it out of reach.

 

Next step down is the 315/60R15 which would probably fit with a mild set of flares.

 

at 155 each...cant beat that :)

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GM actually used a 255/50-16 from the information I found, when I try to match the tire though often I just look at outer diameter though, like 25.6" vs 26.1" or whatever, for example, and try to get them close. Sometimes going to a lower profile tire from the norm will be expensive, so likewise try to find something that you can find commonly in the tire you like, sometimes odd sizes are available from an MFG but only from maybe Michelin or whatever for exotic cars which puts them out of my price range.

 

A 265 should work great on a 9.5" wheel :) but I may go with a 255, who knows.

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Guest Anonymous

while we're kind of on the topic of what cars or rims have the same offset as the Z cars. i noticed that many of the Euro rims have the same bolt pattern and offset (0 to +10mm). would those work or no?

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Guest Anonymous

gotcha.

 

while many of the Euro rims that i saw were +10mm offset, i saw a lot that were 0mm offset, again, with the same bolt pattern. so it's safe to assume that those will fit with ease and will require all the same rules of backspacing and the like? i'm just asking this because i don't seem to see many of the Z owners here on the site that use Euro wheels even though i saw many with the same bolt pattern and 0mm offset and was wondering why. because many of those rims are deep dish as well, with 4" lips and the like.

 

just to throw in another quick question while i'm at it. how wide of a tire/rim will make the wheel/tire package flush with the stock body and fenders? currently on my 280Z, i have some 225s in the rear and 215s in the front, and i was thinking of 245s in the rear and 225s in the front. i want the tire to fit the rim perfectly (no bulge), so how wide of a rim should i be looking for? thanks.

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Guest Anonymous

Has anyone considered having some wheels made with the correct offset?

Rota wheels makes inexpensive (~$100 a corner), high quality wheels in the style of more popular designs, and will make custom sizes, bolt patterns and offsets even for very small orders (I belive I heard the minium was 10 sets), they only charge an extra $15-$20 per wheel, depending on the amount ordered.

 

some designs I like:

panasport knockoffs: http://www.rotawheels.com/rb.htm

rota 'retros': http://www.rotawheels.com/retro.htm

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Guest greimann
10mm offset is a modern day, front wheel drive size. They would have to be very skinny to fit, or get wheel spacers, which will run around $200-$240.

 

Just a correction, +10 mm is stock offset for ZX wheels. +40mm is the typical offset for FWD vehicles which require an adapter to work on Datsuns.

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Guest Anonymous
$400 for custom wheels would be great, but I dont need 10 sets :(

 

well the idea is to set up a group buy or go through a distibuter.

I know alot of subaru guys have set up small groupsbuys for wheels in uncommon offsets. Suposidly enough STS people wanted 15x7 wheels that rota started regualry producing them.

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