gramercyjam

1945#, L28, R190, all steel body, stock glass in windshield and hatch.

I got rid of the booster on my '73. The booster was fine for the street but with race pads & shoes and hoosier slicks on a 1 ton car it was too easy to lock them up. I used the original MC, cut a mounting plate off of the booster, and used the rod that connects to the brake pedal and the rod that goes into the MC. Drilled some holes and welded the two rods together. I added a manual proportioning valve to the rear brakes and took out the original proportioning valve. I'm happy with the result.

I've been lurking. I got sick last fall and had some major surgery and had to take a break. It sucks getting old... Now I put the Z away for a while this year and started driving a 92 E Stock Miata. I got tired of being embarrassed when C Stock Miatii/MR2's beat me when the slicks grip starts falling off. There has got to be a better way of fixing the Z's handling than buying a new set of slicks every 30 runs. I'm hoping to learn the handling secrets of the Miata and improve my driving and improve the Z as a result. I'm picking up an MR2 this weekend too.

Lower pressure = more grip. Can't say I agree with that as a general rule of thumb Jon. I've noticed some days yes, some days no. It seems to me to have a lot to do with the age of the tires. I find that I run higher pressures in new tires with few heat cycles for optimal grip and handling while tires that have more than a few heat cycles can benefit from lower pressures. Of course this is strictly a qualative assessment of Hoosier slicks from my own personal experience. I'd love to see some graphs.

It would be helpful to know if any of the 8610 or 8611 would be suitable for springs in the 400-500 lb range.

It would be helpful to know if any of the 8610 or 8611 would be suitable for springs in the 400-500 lb range.

HEY! Nothing wrong with taht. I think I finally admit I can't drive as gooder as I thought so I might join up with the doritos and see if I can score with doing the show instead of losing doing the go.

HEY! Nothing wrong with taht. I think I finally admit I can't drive as gooder as I thought so I might join up with the doritos and see if I can score with doing the show instead of losing doing the go.

I assume you are going to run in Prepared or Modified, as slicks are not allowed in Stock, Street Prepared or Street Modified or Touring classes. A 10" wide rim is the widest you can go in Prepared without penalties. I would guess an R25A might be problematic on such a heavy car but I haven't tried such a soft compound myself. Think of soft tar on a hot day. Thats about the consistency of an R25. Most folks run 22.0 X 10.0-16 R35 on a 16X10 rim round here. Or go for the 23.0 X 9.5-15 on a 15X10. I think you will like the responsiveness of the tire with the shorter sidewall though.

Sorry. I misunderstood you. I agree with you then.

No No No. I see in your profile, you are an engineer also. We didn't spend all that time and money getting BS*E's to go around using the wrong abbreviations. Since you won't believe me, I offer the Society of Automotive Engineering to back my claim. See the SAE publication below and search on spring rate, linear. lbf/in or N/mm is correct. http://www.sae.org/standardsdev/tsb/tsb003.pdf

Wrong again. Torque is force TIMES distance NOT force DIVIDED by distance.

If you do stick to autox and someday go to the nationals, you might still find several 240Z's in FP. There are none currently in SM2 that I am aware of. We have several cars down in Texas that run in FP. It's nice to have some people in your class to compete with. I disagree with John about $25K to get a nationally competitive car together for FP. If you can do all the work yourself, and you have some fab skills, and luck out scrounging up some used parts, you can build a car that will compete for substantially less. Now that's the easy part. The trick is driving well enough to trophy.

Lbs/in is correct. You are thinking of torque specs on fasteners.

300# springs are definitely not comfy on the street. Good tip Cary - I'll give it a shot after things slow down this summer. I still have a lot of suspension work to do to get things where they should be. It's funny how one day, you find yourself outdriving a car you thought your driving skills couldn't keep up with in the first place.

Not enough to be the quickest.

300# springs + 1" way bar is not enough.

Too bad I didn't have that when I was a kid. I wouldn't have had to beat the crap out of so many people.

1973 240Z gutted roll bar all steel body reinforced floors and footwells, seam welded Glass windsheild and hatch 5 Gal AL fuel tank, full L28 N/A motor/triples/headers/2.5" exhaust R190 4.44 LSD, 5 speed, Tilton flywheel, Quartermaster clutch 2 Kirkey aluminum seats 16X10 Real 3 piece wheels 1989# before ballast, with heavy DOT R tires

After making sure the carbs are good and clean and assembled correctly, I like to start the troubleshooting by making sure the float levels are correct. DCOE's are extremely sensitive to float level settings. I think I remember the "correct" setting is somewhere around 7.5 to 8mm. You can go up or down from that and it will affect idle and off idle response.

Another .02 here on tokicos and spring rates. I run 300# 6" springs front and rear for the last 2 years with the illuminas usually on 2 in front and 3 in the rear. The car also has exremely light weight 16" Real wheels and Hooser bias ply slicks and a 1" front roll bar and a 7/8" rear bar and weighs less than 2000# with stock brakes and very good racing pads and shoes, deleted brake booster and adjustable bias. No cage, but it has a 4 point roll bar, the chassis is reinforced and seam welded, with a welded in rear strut bar. It is a dedicated autox car. It wouldn't last 5 minutes on the street with those spring rates and the ground clearance. Co-drivers have told me the car is extremely twitchy. I don't know, it seems normal to me and it is OK for me. The car handles a lot differently with this setup with added chassis ballast or even heavier tires like radials. I probably would make some changes with the springs a shocks sooner than I plan. As it is, I plan on going to stiffer springs and better shocks at some point for even better transition handling.

yes.

If you really need them ARP kit is 203-2801 (8 Toyota bolts) I needed them for my setup. The heads are too tall on the stock bolts for my setup and it needs the short 12 point heads on the ARP bolts.

Victoracers in that size worked fine for me on a 10" wide rim. There are problems trying to get air in them though. You will need something to fill the gap between the tire and rim so they will hold enough air to seat the beads.

I'm running 1.25" in the front, 1.125" spacers in the rear but with 1/2"X3.5" Ford ARP studs with Real racing wheels. the 1/2" studs are quite a bit beefier than the 3"X12mm studs I was running last year. I did need to drill the hubs for the fatter studs. No issues.