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Wilwood kit


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Just stopped by my mechanic, we started to talk about brakes and the merits of the toyota calipers, 300zx, 240sx etc. He opens a box and pulls out a complete set of Wilwood (superlites?) 4-piston fronts, 2-piston rears, vented rotors, hats, custom mounting brackets and hardware. All of it bolt on an designed for track purposes. The set up looked very professional, he said he got it from his distributor but didn't name who it was. Any ideas on which outfit this would be that it building these setups. BTW the price wasnt cheap - $1600.

 

Thanks

Zardilla

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The set up from Arizona Z is four piston Wilwood superlights all around. The front rotors are 12.2" curved vane 1.25" thick, while the rears are 12.2" straight vents .81" thick. The set up is not cheap to be sure, and it depends on your intended use.

I have done all of my own fabrication and have scrounged parts from various sources, but when I do a track day or find an open, desserted road and and need to haul it down from triple digits I DO NOT want to depend on ten year old pieces and parts that I cobbled together. :shock:

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I'm about 99% sure that the Arizona Z setup uses Superlites on the front and Dynalite duals (4 piston total) on the rear. It is a very good setup, if pricey. If the setup you're looking at has Superlites on the front and Dynalite singles (2 piston total), it may be made by Design Products Racing. That's the way my car is setup and where the kit came from.

 

John

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I just got home and I've got the Arizona Z set up sitting on my kitchen table (my wife is sooo understanding) the fronts are the Wilwood Superlights, the rears are also 4 piston Wilwoods- but smaller that the freak'en HUGE Superlights. There expensive only compared to retro-fitted parts from the Junkyard. If you look in any magazine and check out the "big brake" kits for just about any other car $1600.00 for a serious, quality upgrade is reasonable. If you are EVER going to spend any big money on ANY part of your car, shouldn't it be the brakes??

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You guys can honestly use all that stopping power? I know a guy who with 225 Kumho V700s can stand on his brakes, with my 195 wide 300 treadwear street rubber, I just freaking slide with steel lines and stock brakes.

 

4 piston versus two would provide better pad wear characteristics, but you dont need much bias in the rear, so thats the most benefit it provides.

 

Someday I will have the tire to need more braking :)

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Check my website below for pictures of the Arizona Z Car Wilwood setup. These are Serious Brakes. Expensive, but worth it IMO.

You should carefully check clearance between the front rotors and ends of the control arms - some grinding required on the arm. I also got some minor gouges on the rear rotors because some of the supplied mounting bolts were too long.

You should check out Ross's big brake setups also, at....

http://www.modern-motorsports.com

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Raw stopping power is part of the equation, but equally so is capacity. Ultimately, where the rubber meets the road is the true deciding factor on stopping power, but large brakes enable consistent and repeated stopping power. Stock Z brakes with newer compound pads and SS lines provide plenty of stopping power for day to day driving. But go to a track day and by the third hot lap your brakes will fade. In safe, but spirited, street driving I could over heat my stock brakes and feel the reduced stopping effectiveness. Plus I've seen guys with thousands of dollars in engines that could get their rides to 150+ mph, but had stock brakes. I wouldn't want to be going that fast with marginal brakes.

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Design products doesn't have a website I know of, but their address is:

 

Design Products/DP Racing

5462 Oceanus Drive, Unit E

Huntington Beach CA 92649

714 892 1513

dpracing@concentric.net

 

It's run by Don Oldenburg and his wife. Ive been told Don used to work for Tilton.

 

You can't really use all these brakes on the street. When you open track the car is when they really shine. I run a lot at CMP, a track that is very hard on brakes, and have never had any fade problems. A lot of people say " about halfway thru the run my brake pedal started getting soft", and this is people with upgraded systems. Repeated hard stops is where the big brakes do there best work.

 

You can see a pic of my fronts here:

 

http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=7898

 

Hope this helps,

 

John

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Guest racerxlite

The Arizona Z brake set up is awesome & well worth the $. When I was at Thunderhill last year I could dive into the corners faster & harder than a guy I was playing around with in a Z06. This was a time when I was still learning the car & afraid to go harder. My brother rode w/ me on my last session, he has a full Griggs 95 Mustang Cobra (real sweet!), & couldn't believe the stopping power. He was pretty pissed off & is planning on a full brake upgrade for his car. Note: Khumo V700, 275/40/17's on the car.

 

At that point I had a rebuilt booster w/ a 280ZX master cyclinder on the car, but had to diconnect the vacuum line b/c the pedal went to the floor, so I ran it un-boosted. I'm in the process of finishing a full cage, incorporating Tilton pedals, dual reservoirs & balance bar. This set up should be awesome.

 

If you are going to race the Z's, then spend the money on the brake's. I have 3 types of pads w/ me at all time's that can be swapped in less than 10 minutes. I have a friend, an alignment & brake guy, in our club w/ 327 powered 240 that used Corolla calipers in the rear.

 

He stare's w/ envy every time I have the car at his shop. He told me he tried to find performance pads for the calipers w/ no luck. If he wants an aggressive, high performance pad they will have to be custom made. He figures a few set of pads will cost the equivalent of the Arizona Z set up. During auto-x's, he sprays down the calipers w/ water between runs b/c the rotors heat up so badly that he's loosing the brake's by the end of a 60 second run. Forget being on the track!

 

It hurts like hell to pay the price at the time, but in the long run it will be cheaper than fabbing a set up together if you run the car real hard.

 

BTW - there's nothing better than watching Corvette, Ferrari, and Porsche guys turn thier nose up to my Z in the morning to coming over & inspecting the Z with mucher greater appreciation in the afternoon. It's even better when thay ask how much I have into it - they usually turn white!

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Guest Anonymous

Hey all,

 

I just got the Az. Zcar 4 piston Fr/r (5 lug conv.) setup on my car and I love it.

 

I went from the stock brake,wheel,tire combo to 12.2 rotors and 4 piston calipers and 17x8 wheels with Yok 235-40-17 AVS Intermediates......It's totally different now!!!

 

The car stops like crazy even with the least aggressive (Q) pad that dave supplies.

 

Just started putting my turbo motor together today, I cant wait!!

 

Cheers, Mike.

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Guest Anonymous

Hey Mudge.

 

I got a closeout deal from a friend at discount tire. $200.00/set of four 17x8" 5 lug for mustang. (almost makes up for the money spent on the brake kit ;) )

 

They are 5 spoke design, silver w/ polished lip.

 

I took some pics during the install and will post them soon.

 

You can look at my camber plate install here.

 

[/url]www.bpmfab.com

 

Just select mike's z car project.

 

First time I've done that hope it worked!

 

Cheers, Mike.

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Thanks Mike, I am on my way there now...

 

As for the 'Stang wheels, I know someone else was curious about them and I sort of was too. What year are the wheels for, are they for the latest 5 lugger setup? Are you running a spacer at all?

 

I am curious as to where dimensionally the 5 lug conversion moves everything, inboard/outboard, or what. How close are you to your springs on the car? I see you are running coil overs... I imagine it probably would not be possible to get a 17x9.5" setup on the car without a spacer or non-common offset/backspace :(

 

http://www.bpmfab.com/240%20Z.htm

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Guest Anonymous

Mudge,

 

The Az. Zcar 5 lug setup moves the front out the same as the 5 lug 300zx front hub swap does (about 25mm or 1") but uses a totally sweet aluminum alloy hub from wilwood.

 

This places the centerline of the wider tire in exactly the same position

as the stock setup. ( no change in scrub ratio ) This is with a 17x8" wheel with a 5.5" backspace, which I belive translates to a 25mm offset for that width.

 

The rear brake hat incorporates a 1" spacer and is fastened with ARP hardware which is supplied for the entire kit.

 

17x8's fit the front with no issues at all, Thats about as wide as I would go in the front. The rears rubbed initially (stock fenders) but I had the car too low in the back so I raised it up about 3/8" and now no problems. ( I may eventually roll the rear fenders just to be safe) It seems to me that I could fit a 9" wheel in the back if I used a 40mm offset evrything else being equal.

 

I belive all the late model stang wheels will work with this 5 lug kit. (8"=25mm offset) (9"=40mm offset) 9.5" maybe.... anything wider with stock fenders just wont work.

 

Of course this is all assuming coilovers are installed.

 

I'll try to get the latest pics on the website so you can see all this.

 

Cheers, Mike.

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