ratedZ Posted March 15, 2003 Share Posted March 15, 2003 The pipes are 2-1/4 and the turbo is 2"...can I get away using a straight 2-1/4" hose? or is this a no no. Also does anyone know off the top of their head what size the throttle body is? Thanks all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fl327 Posted March 15, 2003 Share Posted March 15, 2003 no, use a transition, this is high pressure area as well as a very hot connection, use a transition, DO NOT SKIMP ON THE HOSES. if its stock throttle body i believe its 2.25, but you really need to get a tape measure to make sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratedZ Posted March 16, 2003 Author Share Posted March 16, 2003 Their pricey but I guess their worth every penny. Just ordered a set and it was over $70.00 (not including clamps) Thank god I only have to do this once... PS. my car's a mess lol...installing the IC now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fl327 Posted March 17, 2003 Share Posted March 17, 2003 at 70 you got off cheap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony240ZT Posted March 18, 2003 Share Posted March 18, 2003 Good clamps will probably be $6-$7 a peice I'm guessing.. Yeah, I feel the same way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SleeperZ Posted March 18, 2003 Share Posted March 18, 2003 I use steel transitions, and fasten it together with straight tubing. MUCH CHEAPER! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest De Schmaydee Posted March 18, 2003 Share Posted March 18, 2003 ......i'm using nitrile (hump) transition pieces ($5-6) wont last as long as silly-con (have to change 'em every 100,000-200,000 miles) but i can change them 237 times(just kidding) for what the others cost....i believe the "hump" is there to create and air pocket to reduce (or stop) the turbulence created by the diff pipe sizes.........i'm also gonna use some industrial (flexible)"hot air blower hose"....good to 350º-400ºF that has dual helical steel wire reinforcements in it to keep it from collapsing and expanding........we sucked a midget through a 2" section of it in tests the other day......but havent shot one through it yet.......s Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratedZ Posted March 18, 2003 Author Share Posted March 18, 2003 Did the midget come out ok? lol As for the hump hose, I've also read that it gives and flexes with the motor... I kind of ran out of $$$ for the clamps so I'm opting for the regular cheapo clamps ($.99) until I have more money next month to get some T-bolt clamps ($3.50 ea. Napa). Most of all the pipes are going to be welded and there's only going to be one 2-1/4" straight hose...1 transition for the turbo, 1 straight hose for the TB and two reducers for the IC. All bends are going to be welded...I just need to cut one in half so I can install the piping. Right now the project has been temporarily halted....ZR8ED warned me about cutting both of the radiator mounts without further bracing the car...sooooo, now I'm in the process of installing a custom strut tower bar using the stock front sway bar...I'm also putting a strut tower bar in the back struts. Then I can go on with the hole and rad. support cutting. The IC is in and mounted though. I think you guys will like it as I was able to feed the 3" piping with the filter in front of the IC...VERY tight fit. Looks good so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZR8ED Posted March 18, 2003 Share Posted March 18, 2003 Problem you will find with the helical steel core pipe ( I used a simialar type of hose... one big prob... When you install it, if you twist it one way, the coils open up and make it easy to slide on.. When you try and install the other side, and you wiggle it on, you are actually constricting the coils and make it tighter to go on. Once you do get it on, and the engine twists under load (rocks..moves..whatever) those connections flex as well...except one side tightens, and the other side loosens... TRUST ME ON THIS.. I fought all last summer with hoses mysteriously popping off.. Buy the proper stuff once... don't go cheap at the end of the project..you will regret it. nothing like fighting with hoses trying to refit them..1hr from home..and your late...and your dressed up... get the picture here? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest De Schmaydee Posted March 18, 2003 Share Posted March 18, 2003 ....refuses to go forward w/the ("shoot" him through it) tests until we grease either him or the pipe........(already gotta get $60 of cocktails in him before he'll do it) ....i just carved out a section of front end last w'end and removed the a.c. fan.....from my 82zx.....removed the valence,washer etc....looks like its gonna be pretty rough to me.....if i get the i.c. down low enough (where i'd like for it to be) its liable to be killed by a curb or parking lot block..... ...both of my i.c. pipes will come off of the driver's side....i was kinda hoping about moving the cold air plenum down (somewhere) and running my pipes (hoses) through where the existing hole for the plenum is....anyone w/a zx done it that way......... ...i dont know about cutting the radiator partition...even w/a strut tower brace.....got all those air conditioner lines ran there.....(i want my a.c.).... ...i'm hoping when i do this jwt thing and im able to rid myself of the vcm and afm i'll have enough room to do something...............s Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratedZ Posted March 18, 2003 Author Share Posted March 18, 2003 well, I'm now AC'less...couldn't get the IC to fit without pulling the AC radiator thingy up front (I think it's called a condensor?) Soo, I pulled all hoses, pump and everything else that's attached to it. Believe me I did not want to do this and I'm not looking forward to the summer heat here in Las Vegas. But I want speed so I figured I would be too occupied to feel my skin sticking and peeling off of the leather seat anyway lol. I did keep all the parts though as later on down the line, I will modify the end tanks so I can somehow squeeze all the AC stuff back in. But then again I might not as I don't want to put all that weight back in the car... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratedZ Posted March 18, 2003 Author Share Posted March 18, 2003 About the intake...I was originally going to use a helical steel hose to squeeze the intake through the front of the IC. I was going to mount the intake fixed under the front bumper, then hook it up with the hose. This way, the hose can give and it would give me enough room to squeeze it passed the IC end tanks. BUT I scrapped that idea when I was able to use the existing 3" piping. I'll just have to show you guys pics once everything is done... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest De Schmaydee Posted March 19, 2003 Share Posted March 19, 2003 ....i can see that happening....(the slipping off part) this stuff has a liner in it thats kinda like hard plastic .....looks like the black pipe folks use for the washing machine drain hose.....slicker than snot.....its nothin' like a radiator hose or anything like that.... ......but i dont think theres anyway to twist it (the wires and polyester are made "into" it...not wrapped around it...)....you could just about use it for a drive shaft.....it may not work........i think i can keep it from blowin' off....but dont know that it wont leak at the clamps..........what kinda hose was your's.....this stuff is black w/a yellow strip runnin' down it...says "sw360 hot air blower hose" .....on it.........s Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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