Jump to content
HybridZ

ELECTRICAL HELP


Recommended Posts

Ohaiyo Gozaimasu from Okinawa. Im putting the wiring back in and have gotten stumped on connecting the plugs on the passenger side under the glove box on the right panel. The big colored plugs are obvious but I have a few small ones that I want to make sure are correct. Does anyone have a pic of the harness plugging into the relay panel? I have a 73 240. Any help is useful. Also, the 3 wires that plug into the relay for the signal lights 2 green and 1 green/red. I assume the g/r wire goes in the middle and the other two green go on either side. Is that right? Its the relay at the top with the three single wire inputs on the side of the l plug for the flasher relay. Am I making sense? I hate electrical stuff...thanks in advance....

 

CZ :evil:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Anonymous

Got a multimeter? Get one and learn how to use it. Two of the wires will show a low resistance reading in "Ohms" because it sees the load of the filament in the bulbs, the third wire (which is likely the red tracer) will be "hot to ground" (+ 12 volts). Preset the meter to what you expect to read in ohms, volts or amps. Quickway is to briefly strike each wire to body ground with flasher on.....the one that sparks is hot and feeds the two flashers.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Anonymous

What am I thinking?

 

Read the letters on the bottom of relay. They should be L (left signal, R (right signal) and B (battery). And yes, the red tracer is most likely the hot wire feed and goes on "B". I am all in boxes somewhere so can't look.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well wouldnt ya know it........SH#T. I got all the wiring done and EVERYTHING, Horn, backup Lights, park Lights, Hazards, High/Low beams work just fine......BUT.....the fuse for the turn signal blows and my turn signals do not work. I tried unplugging everything to find the short and it still doesnt work. Does anyone know what it could be? Is the turn signal flasher relay on the left? The one on the right on the panel works the hazards. Since they work I suppose there is not a problem with the actual lines to the lights. Could it be in the switch somewhere? Any ideas on how to by pass and wire it up differently? Good news is the ignition works fine. At least I tested it by attaching the wires to the starter laying on the ground. It kicks over and my accessories come on when I turn on the key. So I assume it will start when time comes. Now just those Damn turn signals....

 

By the way is there a place that could do a complete re wire for me when I get bck to the states? I am in Texas....any Texas brothers out there that could recommend. I am really tired (as well as Im sure my wiring is) of dim headlights, Jerry rigging, shorts, burnt out fuses etc. I want to fix it once and for all. I would have done it with my rebuild but I know nothing about electrical and well.....I am in Stinking Okinawa..LOL :roll:

 

If anyone can cheer me up about this please try! By the way the car is looking sweet. I will post more pics soon. Thanks in advance...

 

CZ :wink:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have run into the same situation, a short somewhere and when I started tracing wires and realized that its a rats nest of old wiring. I got so frustrated (like you, wiring is not my strong point) that I decided to redo the whole mess. I went with American Autowire modular harness. There are a couple of others out there that I researched, Painless Wiring and Centech, each were recomended.

The newest wiring harnesses are very well labeled and designed. This way I learn about wiring with tech help when needed, and I'll know where every wire is and what its for!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Pete Paraska has a circuit diagram to upgrade the Z headlight circuit to use relays. Quite a few people on this board have done his upgrade.

 

The switches on these old cars are a serious weak point. Try taking the turn signal switch itself apart and cleaning it up. Pete's relay upgrade is a big help here. Takes the high current out of the switch and routes it through relays were it belongs.

 

Since you have a dead short to ground, try hooking a test lamp or buzzer to the turn signal circuit (remove the fuse and hook clip the test lamp to the fuses output terminal), then start wiggling and disconnecting things until the lamp/buzzer stops gong off. Bulbs could be corroded into their sockets, but chances are you have some insulation worn off causing the circuit to short out to sheet metal somewhere. Maybe pinced a wire?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Anonymous

Oh stop it! You guys are frightning me! .....ha ha. Not even searching online for such, I am noticing more comments that the Z has a bad rep for the electrical. I just pulled the entire wiring harness out a few days ago as a part of the reconditioning prep. Just a cursory glance as I finally pulled the whole thing out and a one inch long rubbed raw bare wire area in the main bulk of the harness bundle caught my eye. Now this means that something was driving the previous owner crazy, simply because it wasn't arced or burned and therefor was most likely intermittent! I haven't checked to see what it goes to but that's certainly a warning about the factory installation practices used.

 

Jim Powers suggestions are best for a novice hunting a short or open circuit. I also recommend a simple reading of a basic electronics book which will put a picture in the mind of what is going on and how things work. It is a fairly simple reading and it dosent hurt you that bad. Always remember that "It's easy if you know how"! .....har har.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Z8, what harness did you buy? I think I like this one:

 

COMP-9 Modular Panel System

 

Wouldnt that be sufficient? I dont have an airconditioner or heater etc, just the basic lights, signals, accesorries, fuel pump, electric fan and ignition.

 

Give me your opinion please. I will buy this sucker in a heart beat. I am just mad I didnt think of it before hand. Now I will have to pull the dash and steering wheel again. I will save this project for the fall though as I just need to get this thing running. I can get the locals to give me a quick fix. It sounds like an easy job . Take out all the old wiring, go to the junk yard and find some good light sockets for the tail and front etc to splice into, Headlight plugs too I guess. A soldering iron would help. Pull the dash, remove all the wiring and go from there. My question is "was it hard to figure out the wires coming from the ignition and turn signal switch to include the wiper switch? I guess thats the hardest part. Any input is appreciated.

 

Thanks

 

CZ

Link to comment
Share on other sites

CZ, Sorry for the late reply, I've been VERY busy at work. I purchased the COMP-9 modular harness. I have not installed it yet. When I unpacked the box I was impressed that everything was broken down into labeled bags. Each bag contains all the wires and switches for each circut. This will make it super easy to work on one section at a time. Each wire is labeled every few inches, so if a wire goes to your headlights it's labeled "headlights" from dash switch all the way to the socket. This puts an end to mystery wires forever! The wiring is all cross-linked abrasion/heat resistent wire and the kit comes with basic connectors and terminal ends. I want to use existing switches so I will probably be doing a little soldering. The modular fuse block means I can mount it anywhere, and just run the wires to it. Some of the other harnesses I checked out had pre-terminated ends into the fuse block already so you had a limited range from the dash to mount it.

To your specific questions- I have the same needs as you and I added to the COMP-9 kit the two extra relays for the electric fan and fuel pump. This will ensure they get full juice and I don't blow fuses. I have not pulled the switches to figure out which terminal on the switch itself goes where, but since that's about the only part that's "factory" I'll should be able to identify which solder point is for what by comparing the factory wire chart to the switches.

I've got thousands of dollars in this road rocket, I'm not to get stranded or worse yet, watch it go up in flames because I was too cheap to replace 33 year old wiring! (sorry for the long post :wink: )

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...