LT1 Corvette Bracket Question and update on car

[Guest Anonymous]

Hi to all, it's been a while.

 

First the question....

 

I have the corvette accessory bracket to go on my 95 LT1, does this go on the driver or pass. side of the engine? Does anyone have any pics or diagrams they could post? Just kept looking at it and couldn't make sense of it ........spent too long working under the body today, just tired I guess.

 

It's been a while since I've posted. I closed my business right after Christmas, and was fortunate to find a good job. I am now sales manager for a small chain (3) transmission shops in upstate SC. I really like the job, glad to be back in the automotive business. We even have a transmission Dyno that we test all our automatics that we build before they go to the customer. It's nice to work for a quality operation.

 

I finally am financially stable again and am resuming work on my '72 240Z LT1 conversion. I got the harness and computer back this week, had it modified and re-programmed. I finally have all the major components together and ready to put the engine/trans in. Hope to have it ready to fire up in the next 3-4 weeks.

 

Its good to be back.

 

Charlie

[80LS1T]

It goes on the drivers side of the engine. I can't find a pic of it though. Just look on ebay under "LT1 corvette" under "Parts" You should be able to find a pic there.

 

Guy

[Guest Anonymous]

http://www.gatewayzclub.com/members/dewzenol/images/z%20pics/95%20Corvette%20LT-1/imagesinthisfolder.asp

 

http://www.gatewayzclub.com/members/dewzenol/images/z%20pics/moreheadersandfittingengine/imagesinthisfolder.asp

 

http://www.gatewayzclub.com/members/dewzenol/images/z%20pics/FittingEngine/imagesinthisfolder.asp

[Guest Anonymous]

Thanks a bunch D, those links helped out a lot.

[Guest Anonymous]

No problem. I guess I should have mentioned... that is a 95 Corvette LT-1, so those are stock brackets in their stock locations. I honestly don't know if there would be any difference in placement on a camaro/ta lt-1.

[dmyntti]

dewzenol Where did those headers in the second link come from. If they fit well for an LT1 in the JTR position, I would be really interested in getting them.

 

Thanks

[Guest Anonymous]

Part # is listed here

 

S&S Headers is here

 

It doesn't look like they have part#5310 listed anymore, the closest seems to be 5205. If you're keeping emissions, make sure you tell them where to put the bung for the EGR. They put the O2 bungs on a separate piece that mounts to the end of the headers.

 

The biggest problem with these headers is that they cannot be used with the knock sensors in their stock location. I haven't found a solution to this yet, as I don't know how sensitive the sensors are to location.

[dmyntti]

dewzenol Thanks for the info. I think those are what I need. I will have to look into knock sensor relocation. I think it has been discussed on this board. If not I will check some Camaro and Corvette boards.

 

Thanks again

[Danno74Z]

dmyntti,

 

Ron Tyler, built up a LT1 V8 Conversion a few years back and here is a quote on what he did in regards to the knock sensor.

 

"I am using Hooker ceramic street rod headers. The pass. side flange lands on the knock sensor. I moved the knock sensor to the engine set-back plates (mounts). This gives metal-on-metal contact to the block and works well."

 

I'm going to try this with my setup once I get to that point.

 

Dewzenol,

 

I found this up on the S&S Page:

 

5205 SB 1-3/4

 

Chevy Headers SB 1-3/4' Long Hugger 1927-34/ 1935-48 Fat Fenders with Rack & Pinion /1962-67 Nova with Rack & Pinion Steering/Straight or Angle Plugs/240/260 Z Datsun with Small Block Chevy -Raw

 

Price $276.75 Other currencies

 

FYI: I thought it was interesting they mentioned the Datsun Z with the Chevy engine. Also, in one of the links above it mentioned that these header's hung very low and were a B%^&* to install.

 

 

 

 

Danno74Z

[dmyntti]

Thanks for the info. Man I love this site. I now have a good plan for my exhaust system which is the last issue in the planning stage.

[Guest Anonymous]

They do hang a little under the oil pan. The last few picturs here might give you an idea of how far. Speed bumps may be a problem.

Driver side is not too bad, but passenger hangs down about another inch or so.

 

FYI, I ditched the ZF6 idea. Went with the T56. Found someone on a Corvette forum willing to do an even trade.

[Guest Big Phil]

Dewzenol,

Ron Wire Works sell a Knock sensor relocation kit for 19 bucks. It allows you mount your sensor anywhere on the oil pan bolt flange.

 

http://www.ronfrancis.com/catalogwindow.asp

 

 

[dmyntti]

Thanks again for the info. I will have to decide about the headers. I really want long tube tuned headers but those do hang awfully low. I may be able to get away with it as I do not plan on lowering the front of the car much (maybe 1")

[Guest Anonymous]

Thanks for the info on Ron Francis. I've sent them a request for info, since I couldn't find it in their online catalog. I'll let you all know what I find.

[Guest Big Phil]

I already installed the piece but, I should have the box in my garage somewhere. I look tonight and post the part number tommorow.

[Guest Anonymous]

Your e-mail was forwarded to me by the Wire Works but the Wire Works still has these units.

 

It is part number KB-41 and run $12.00. If you enter that part number on their part number search on their website, it should still come up even though they shut off those pages.

 

Of course I can't seem to find the 'search' function at wire-works...

 

The knock sensor is threaded into a water passage, right? Maybe I'll just install an elbow and extend it down a little lower..

 

I also found this blurb on a firebird mods page:

Retorqued Knock Sensor (14 ft-lbs)

 

SOTP rating = 6

This modification was done because there was discussion on the list of the knock sensors being overtightened from the factory and thus being oversensitive. The sensor had to be removed to drain the block during the intake manifold leak so I got the teflon paste out and torqued it back in there. I was a little skeptical at first but after driving the car let me tell you, it works! It pulls so much harder from 4800 - 6K now it feels great! It also no longer feels as though it has lost 40 hp when it is really hot and humid out and the engine gets hot.

 

Could be useful later.

[Danno74Z]

dewzenol,

 

Danno74Z to the rescue! I found what you looking for at Wire Works. Here is the link for the knock sensor relocation adaptor (go to the bottom of the page). I will probably get one too!

 

http://www.wire-works.com/M6.asp

 

Danno74Z

[Guest Anonymous]

Thanks for the link. If you have a late model LT1, don't you mean you think you'll buy two? Since there are two knock sensors..?

 

<ramble>

18 bucks, huh? Sheesh... I hate to be rude but all that seems to be is a chunk of aluminum. Wish I could find a good resource on knock sensors and how they..uh...sense knock... I'm half (three quarters?) tempted to just make a bracket and mount it to a pan bolt. Seems like that might defeat the computer's ability to distinguish which bank is knocking. Then again, I guess if it's knocking, it's knocking, and if timing gets retarded, timing gets retarded. There doesn't seem to be any point in distinguishing which bank is knocking. I guess they placed them so close to the cylinders in order to give them increased sensitivity, and not to distinguish the location of the knock. That settles it. I'm moving them myself and I'm not gonna use the $18(*2) kit. If/when I install the supercharger maybe I'll reevaluate their placement.

</ramble>

[Guest Your Car is Slow]

Easiest and cheapest solution is to replace the LT1 knock module with an LT4 one (about a 30 dollar part)

 

Very common mod...works like a champ too (did it back when I had my Impala).

[Guest Anonymous]

Easiest and cheapest solution is to replace the LT1 knock module with an LT4 one (about a 30 dollar part)

 

Very common mod...works like a champ too (did it back when I had my Impala).

 

Ok' date=' apparently the LT4 knock module (in the PCM) is more selective (than that in the LT1 PCM) about what it hears as knock. Supposedly the LT1 knock module (in the PCM) is more likely to falsely identify knock, and therefore retards timing under acceleration, even more so if you have 'noisy' mods like cams or exhaust or forced induction. SOOO.... you buy the LT4 module and install it in your PCM; you still use the standard knock SENSORS. This is what I'm gonna do: Get the LT4 knock module and relocate the sensors to the pan with homebrew brackets. A little surfing found the LT4 module (part#16214681) for $39 at http://www.moreperformanceinc.com/accorvette.htm, and for under $30 at VanDevere Olds (800-362-9494) -- I haven't called to verify the price yet. Another choice might be sallee chevrolet, which is where I bought all my motor mounts, for a relatively good price.