dmyntti

I have a TP-38 on a 350 in a 280Z (Grassroots Motorsports Challenge car). What I did for oiling is build a bracket from steel bar and welded a brake line coupler to the feed side and a 1/2" pipe nipple to the drain side. I put copper permatex on the plate for a seal and it held up to four autocross runs and two drag runs without any problems. The ideal situation is to have a factory type o ring seal on the turbo. You could get a turbo pedestal off of a powerstroke and modify that for your oil lines. These turbo are good to around 500 hp but are getting to the edge of the map at that point. You could probably push them to 600 but you are overspeeding it which is my plan but not recommended. I believe the Bonneville car running two of them is a ball bearing version of this turbo. On your motor it will likely be slow to spool. On my 350 it spools around 3000 rpm but that is with a .84 ar exhaust housing. I belive my turb came from an early 99 van. Oh and i forgot to mention you said the oil line where on the top that is actually the bottom of the turbo.

Is the choke opening? There is a linkage in the carb that prevents the secondaries from kicking in until the choke is off. This should be at the base of the carb, I believe on the side opposite the throttle. I am assuming this is a quadrajet. Like suggested before you may want to start with a carb rebuild and go from there.

I am looking to go back and finish my engineering degree. My company has tuition reimbursment but I am looking for a good school. I need a school that offers an online bachelors in either civil or mechanical engineering and is ABET accredited. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Common areas of concern for the C3 are as follows (some where mentioned already): Rust: Look at the windshield support at the top, the radiator core support, and the frame where it kicks up in fron of the wheels. Look at where the trailing arm connect to the frame. Bad rust in this area is almost unrepairable and somewhat common. Common mechanical problems: The cooling system on these cars is barely adequate and needs to be in very good shape to cool the engine properly, radiators commonly need replaced and are very expensive for this model. The next big concern is the rear suspension. Look for a cracked spring (they crack in the middle at the differential cover. Look at the differential cover (this supports the rear of the car and the spring attaches to it). The covers crack frequently, they can be replaced with a heavy duty cover to correct this problem but installing one is very time consuming (I just finished doing mine last night). Rear wheel bearings can also be an issue and can be difficult to change (most people purchase a remanufactured hub and spindle assembly). These are the things I can think of off hand. Once all of theses itmes are sorted out these cars make great drivers and can be quite fun.

Could you take the locks out and take them to a locksmith to be rekeyed. If you bring them the locks it should not be that expensive.

Look at the writeup for MSnS extra. Take a look at the extra output #2. If you are using MSnS extra then I think this is what you want to use.

I think you would know if your timing chain had slipped from the compression check (the compression would be low). I also think you hit on the problem when you retarded the timing at the controller the way you did. You might try adjusting the distributor to see if it helps. You could have a problem with the distributor itself (i.e. the ignition module/coil/pickup etc.).

It could be mechanical. It is possible that the timing chain slipped a tooth. Another possible problem is a burned exhaust valve. This will cause a popping in the exhaust though I have never heard one be terribly loud. A compression check can rule out these problems. After that you are looking at either fuel or spark issues. Spark is easy to check with a timing light to make sure you are in the ballpark, or you could just advance the distributor (turn counterclockwise) to see if this helps. Once you are satisfied with these two you must look at fuel issues. You could concievably be popping in the exhaust with either a way rich or a way lean condition. If the car runs long enough you could check the color on the spark plugs white would indicate a lean condition black a rich condition. Just look at it one system at a time. Hope this helps.

Thanks for the reply. From what I found MSII will also use a wideband but does not have as many features as MSNS+E. I ordered the MS1 kit and will use MSNS+E because I want knock retard which is not currently included in MSII. I can always buy the MSII daughter board at a later date. This will be my first system but I hope to build a few more in the near future for other project cars I am working on.

I am about to purchase a Megasquirt kit. I would like some advice as to which unit to buy. I hope to build several systems for vehicles I currently have but this is going to be my first one. Is there a reason not to get the Megasquirt 2 kit? This system will be installed on a 350 chevy with either Multiport injection or TBI. I intend to use ignition control through my stock HEI. I believe I have the skills to build the kit myself. I was looking at the kit from DIYAUTOTUNE priced at $250 for megasquirt 2. Is this the right place to buy this or is there something or someone better? Also can the megasquirt use a wideband oxygen sensor and if so what do I need (LM-1?)? Thanks for your advice.

This could either be a lean condition or a misfire. I believe that if it were a lean condition then the manifold on that side would also be glowing. I had a truck start doing that on both header collectors. It turned out that the new distributor that I bought had slipped and the truck was firing very late causing unburned fuel to dump into the exhaust and burn in the collectors. I would look for a bad plug wire or cap and rotor as these are the only things that I can think of to only effect one side or likely one cylinder. If one cylinder isn't firing then the unburned fuel will end up in the exhaust and would likely light off in or near the cat convertor.

The 305 heads on a flat top 350 are going to produce some excessively high compression. For that to work you would need a cam with alot of overlap to bleed off some cylinder pressure. Unfortunately the valves in the 305 heads are small and can not perform well at high rpm where the big cam wants to make power. You should really swap out those 305 heads for something with appropriate valve sizing.

I have been considering this myself. I have access to a used four post or a two post right now. I am leaning toward the four post for safety reasons as I do not know the quality of the floor in my garage. If a two post lift is properly installed and regularly inspected the lift will not likely cause you any trouble. The problem is however usually user issues (not thinking things through or not visualizing where the lift arms are connected to the undercariarge). When I was in college (Ferris State Automotive) we where given a lecture on proper lifting techniques. Well when I was working on the service floor the instructors would routingly check and criticize the pad placement (I saw several damerous conditions). One day my lab partner called me over to look at one of our classmates cars on a lift. He showed me an arm that was hanging on by a corner of the pad. The instructor who gave the lift lecture and two students where working under the front of the car. When my partner showed the instructor the problem he imediately had everyone stand back as he lowered the car. He lowered the car about six inches bafore that arm kicked out leaving the car resting on three legs. The car slowly rocked back until the other arm kicked out and the car came crashing down on the rear bumper. The car was totalled and the instructor was embarrased as he had placed the lifting pads himself. Everyone saw the car come down and I think everyone of us will be very carefull of pad location after seeing that.

Is the oil pressure OK. It sounds like the oil is not getting to the top with nearly enough volume. Could be bearings in the bottom end or maybe cam bearings. I had a big block doing this. Almost no oil pressure at hot idle. This had a spun cam bearing, a couple of the mains were pretty worn also. Find the source of this problem before running this car as it will destroy things quickly.

I live in Newark Ohio, Just east of Columbus. There are at least three other members on this board from Ohio.

I think you will need wheelie bars (in front for braking)

I don't think mopeds come with ten year warranties, but I could be wrong.

I have an 04 Aveo and I get around 35 mpg driving at around 70 mph, mostly highway mileage. That being said my 99 Neon DOHC got 36 mpg and was much more fun and never broke down in 125,000 miles I put on it. My 92 Hyndai Excel (talk about getting blown around) gets 38 mpg, I kept that one for the kids to learn to drive in and now can't sell it because it isn't worth anything (160,000 miles). The Aveo is a very easy car to drive long distances and I don't have a problem gettind blown around. The Aveo is however just a rebadged Daewoo, so it is an inport and is wired just like one.

The numbers I quoted for my engine were from Desktop Dyno 2000. A web search will often turn up flow DD2000 flow files for the heads. As far as the tranny goes, I would probably go with the 400. As far as a rebuild, it is a toss up in my mind, rebuilds can tend to be a crapshoot. If it shifts well then I would probably run it as is. Remember the driveshaft is different for the 400. Also you will want to fix the shift points on that 400 as it should currently shift at 4500 rpm. I think it is the govenor that needs modified but automatics are not my bag. For the HP/Torque goals you are looking for I think you will need to get better heads then the peanut ports. What you are describing I would call a relatively mild big block but that is an opinion. As far as running on 87 octane, I think that will be tough. Big blocks are detonation prone and you don't want a huge camshaft for the torque you are looking for. A big cam would allow more compression at a given octane rating but kills bottom end torque. With my cam as specified above I think I will be looking at midgrade gas if not premium. I do intend to polish my compression chambers and run a 160 degree thermostat (I have coated skirts on the pistons to help with scuffing). Keith Blacks website has compression ratio and dynamic compression ratio calculators.

I would take $200 for the entire setup but as mentioned above it is a MAF type unit not the speed density. I have everything that came off of the car including the elbow and maf sensor, wiring harness, computer, sensors, manifolds etc. I think that the maf is doable in an S10 but there is not much room on the front of the engine so I am not sure. Look on EBAY there are usually several available there and some are speed density and claim to come off of 350's. Just make sure you get everything. If you are interested I will take some pictures and email them to you.

Michael is right the 79 truck engine is a Mark IV. I am currently building a 79 454 to go into my 1/2 Ton 4x4. I went with a pair of old 781 (large oval ports) head castings that I am going to port match and do a little bowl work to. I put in Hypereutectic popup pistons for a static compression ratio of 9.35 with my head volume and deck height. For the cam I went with a hydraulic roller that has specs of 218/224 @.050 and .540 lift with the 1.6 ratio roller rockers I am using. Desktop Dyno puts this at 450hp and 550 ft/lbs of torque which is extremely optomistic (I think the proper numbers are -50 for both). I built this combination for my truck and with a shift point of 5500 rpm because it is hard to get a hydraulic roller BBC much above that without valve float. If this were to go into a Z I would do as Michael suggested and get good aluminum heads and a bigger cam with coresponding higher compression ratio.

The TPI motors were not Vortec style. These monifolds can bolt to the old style heads. You may have to modify the center manifold bolts but I hear it is quite simple. There are a few small differences in the TPI's but nothing major. The early models had an extra cold start injector and the later ones had better injectors. The injector size is different between the 305 and 350 so be careful there unless you plan on upgrading the injectors anyway. These systems make great torque but power falls off in the upper RPM range (above 4500 for a 350). Makes sure when you get the TPI system that you get a complete wiring harness and all of the sensors to go with it. If you are interested I have a complete system with computer/harness and sensors of of an 89 Formula Firebird, but it was a 305 so the injectors would need to be changed out for your application.

Yeah, When you go for a bank appraisal the appraiser knows what you are trying to borrow. They rarely appraise it for much more than that. I have had appraisers give an appraisal from just a drive by look at the house I was buying. When I asked the appraiser why the value wasn't higher he said that since I was only borrowing $35,000 he didn't need to go inside the house to come up with an appraisal to make the bank happy. The appraisal he gave was $50,000. When the house got flooded a year later with no major modifications the appraisal showed a value of $90,000 in preflood state.

Possibly a short in the headlight wiring, it uses a breaker and has no fuse. Also look to the wiring up to the fuse box and anything else not protected by a fuse. The main feed to the alternator (not fused) is a common problem area along with voltage regulators (I believe these are fused though). I often find shorts in the battery box area of cars with the battery up front by the headlight marker light wiring. It seems alot of people put the battery down pinching some of the wiring. Look in the areas where you recently did some work where wires might be pinched or rubbed by sharp metal.

Actually you want the meter on milliamps. Volts would still read 12. There will always be some draw on the battery from things like clocks and radio memory. Try with the meter on amps first so that you don't blow a fuse in the meter if the current is too high. The method I like the most is to wire a light bulb between the negative post and cable and shine it somewhere I can easily see while I disconnect fuses. If the current draw is small use a tail light bulb, if it is a big draw you can use a headlight. I have also used an ignition buzzer before so that I could hear while tracing the wires to a taillight circuit. I used to do a lot of electrical work when I first started out in automotive service.