Guest Anonymous Posted April 10, 2003 Share Posted April 10, 2003 This is another way to get CV shafts on the 280Z. I was able to adapt shafts from an '82-85 Toyota Supra fairly easily. I have a buddy into Supras and he had a spare set, so I thought I'd give it a try. The only hitch is that the shafts are fairly long (and I had to shorten the left one 1/2", it was easy) and there is no room to bolt the adapters on. The studs on the diff end are in the way and have to be removed. This might scare some, but if you do the welds carefully, they will last. I checked the Supra hot rod sites, and read no complaints about their shafts breaking even with 400-500hp turbo'ed motors. As far as putting the whole Supra diff in, I gotta say that the mounting of it is totally different than the Z. It doesn't have the bar across the back like a Z, so it'll be alot of work if you want to attempt it. Good thing is, I think the Supras have more options for different ratios and LSD's. Hope this give another option to the hard to find 280ZX turbo shaft swap. Supra shafts should be alot easier to find. This is my full webpage on it, hope it loads: http://enigj.tripod.com/toyota_axles_280z/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dp351zcar Posted April 10, 2003 Share Posted April 10, 2003 Wow that is very close to the way I am going to put a Z32 VLSD carrier into a R200 in my 71 Z with ujoint half shafts. I will only have to do the flanges on the the diff side as the halfshafts will bolt up to side stubs. This does not look very hard so this might be a way to put in a visous lsd with CV halfshafts into a early Z. Just thinking. Don Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z ya Posted April 10, 2003 Share Posted April 10, 2003 How much was it for the fabbed up plates?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted April 10, 2003 Share Posted April 10, 2003 I had the shop where I work make them for free, so I can't say what they'd cost, but I designed them fairly simple. So much so that I left off a pilot shoulder that would center the adapter on the 280Z flange. If you do it to my drawing, you need to manually center the adapter on the Z flange with a caliper (measure the distance between pilot edges until they are equal all the way around) or rotate it on a lathe with a dial indicator. Of course, if you don't want to fool with manually centering the adapter before welding, just add a pilot shoulder (OD that mates to the Z flange pilots) to the drawing when you have them cut. The other way (an maybe better) is to cut the Toyota pilot diameter in the adapters on a lathe after you do the welding, that way it'll be certain to be true. Also cut a new flat mating surface while you're at it since the welding tends to warp the adapters a bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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