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93 LT1 computer tuning.....


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Well, there was always the boot disk option, or what I had was simply dual boot 98/2k on my laptop - that way I just used F8 at bootup with Win98 for my DOS.

 

I'm wary of using Windows for flashing, but I will give it a shot sometime. You need the $69 Tunercat program, and the $20 $EE definition file. They have other software, but its not required.

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And don't forget FreeScan. That is a great little free application that has some pretty cool functions, including a little dash board (seven gauges I think) that shows RPM, Water Temp, MAP etc etc), and allows you to reset the trouble codes, which TC doesn't allow. Freescan can (obviously) run and read the PCM while the engine is running. The price is great too!!! FREE!!

 

Tim

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Guest Your Car is Slow

I thought this was for a 93...Tunercat and LT1 edit and all other software is pretty much useless for that.

 

No way to update a 93 ECU with them....have to burn the new program onto a chip.

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I thought this was for a 93...Tunercat and LT1 edit and all other software is pretty much useless for that.

 

No way to update a 93 ECU with them....have to burn the new program onto a chip.

 

If you read back a bit it was suggested that he upgrade to a later PCM.

Tim

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Some people swear by datamaster, I honestly dont like it much - the export SUCKS. I hate having to clean it up so that I can play with it in Excel, its strongest feature is the real time display. You can test it for 20 runs to see if you like it.

 

I prefer Freescan (its free!) and Excel together, great combo.

 

Tunercat will work on 93s actually, but you need a bunch of PROMs and a PROM burner of course :) so you spend another $100+, and then have to keep buying chips if you keep burning. I read about an L98 Vette that had the older PROM setup computer, and in summary they said "It took 200 burns to make the car run well, it took 400 to make it perfect."

 

Everyones programming abilities are different and yada yada, but I like the flexibility of being able to program again adn again, without yanking the computer, the freaking cover, and then having to deal with the time and expense of the PROM setup. Just as I can't imagine dealing with a carb on the dyno, ripping the top end of the carb off to get to the jets (Weber downdrafts), no way José.

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So what kind of laptop should I start looking for? What kind of minimum requirements should the computer have?(Hz?, harddrive space?, CD? Floppy?) Also I would like to run this on windows cause I hate DOS.

 

 

Thanks,

 

Guy

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DOS is stable, Winblows... well.

 

Look for at least a P200, with 64-128MB RAM (its cheap to buy), 1GB+ hard drive (dont need much unless you are running 2k, then go for 2GB minimum). 3.5" drive will help greatly I think, CDROM would be nice simply for installing things if nothing else. Try to find one with a battery and charger, they are expensive new, unless you can find them on eBay for a reasonable price.

 

My last setup was a PII 366 and was more than enough for logging, viewing stuff in Excel etc, instead of having to go home to a faster computer with more resoultion, I had a 15" screen so I had plenty of view space. I bought the battery new for I think $30, but again its all going to depend on luck and laptop model etc

 

Surf eBay, laptops are cheap now - You can snag a P3 deal for $500 or so if you watch. Feel free to surf the MFG site to learn about the laptop in question, sometimes people dont know much so they aren't able to tell you alot about the laptop. I ended up with a Gateway 9300, for several reasons. On board video capture, and a known CPU socket type making for an easy upgrade path (MMC-2), almost no MFG will tell you the socket type in thier FAQ so the Gateway was friendly to me in that regard.

 

You can also get a 2.5" HDD to 3.5" HDD adapter, in case you can't find one with a floppy and CDROM, so you can install anything you need onto your formatted drive, and install from there. Only thing is, to get things to and fro the laptop thereafter, your going to need a NIC, or pull that drive every single time, or get a floppy down the road - or setup a serial cable communication setup, or a modem - yada yada yada.

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Well I am currently looking for a computer(laptop) to tune my car. I was just wondering about some other things about Tunercat...

 

Can I program out the SKIPSHIFT? Well I dont know how much that will help since my wiring harness doesnt have the skipshift leads on it. I am thinking of just wiring Ignition B+ to it and turning it on whenever the car is on. That would work right?

 

Also I was wondering about my Reverse Lock-Out solenoid...How can I get that thing to come off? I was thinking of wiring it to a (Ignition)B+ lead and a switch so that I could turn the solenoid on/off when ever I want. So I could leave it on whenever driving around but hit the switch whenever I wan to back up. This way it would stop me from hitting reverse at say 60mph? :D

 

 

Guy

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You can program it, put a resistor in line, or on 94 cars simply unhooking it SUPPOSEDLY does nothing wrong nor set a SES, however I have heard a 95 person say it fried the skip shift and made it stick?

 

I programed mine out ages ago, or simply drive harder! ;)

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I didnt say I didnt have a skip shift. I am pretty sure I do? I just dont have it in my wiring harness. So the computer isnt involved in when in comes on and when it goes off. As for the reverse lock out, I also dont have that incorperated into my harness. I just want to know if I can wire the reverse lock out to a switch and turn it on and off when ever I want?

 

 

 

Guy

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Ok maybe I dont have it. I think I might have looked under the 96' model year? :oops: Whoops! Cause I looked it up again on ALLDATA under 93' and its not there!

 

 

Now how can I deal with my Reverse-Lock Out Solenoid?

 

 

Guy

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Its not a matter of if I want to turn it off but since its not in my wiring harness there is no way to turn it off when I want to back up. I can push it in to reverse but its really hard to do because of this solenoid. I just want to be able to turn it off when I want to back up thats all.

 

If I wire it up to ignition voltage and ground the other side and use a manual switch(locate it in the cabin of the car) then i could control it. But I was just wondering if it will last long like this. How much voltage does it take to turn this on and off normally?

 

Get what I'm saying now?

 

 

Guy

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Oh I see, so you dont have wiring to actuate it right now and you dont know how it works normally or what it takes to make it work period, gotcha. I'll ask around, I'd suggest you post on CamaroZ28.com about it though, someone is bound to know.

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