Owen Posted May 14, 2003 Share Posted May 14, 2003 I can't find those assembly instructions...so, the Grant wheel is screwed onto the adapter with self tapping screws or something? And does removing them mess up the adapter or the steering wheel? Sounds kinda weird to me. If your original wheel isn't a Grant, you'd need an original hub to put it back on... Owen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomoHawk Posted May 14, 2003 Author Share Posted May 14, 2003 I'm talking about a Grant steering wheel! You screw the steering whhel onto the adapter. I do't know what kind of screws they are using. they look like normal screws. When you remove them, the threads on the adapter hub and the screws themselves get stripped. No threads on the steering wheel, only 3 holes. Leave the original wheel out of this, has nothing to do with the adapter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Tempe_Z Posted May 15, 2003 Share Posted May 15, 2003 I think he means the 3 crappy zinc plated bolts that attach the cup shaped steel stamping to the cast aluminum looking part with the actual splines for the steering shaft. I popped off one of those crappy bolts on mine when I was installing it too way back when. Probably could get it out with an EZ out (might even work for once) and then helicoil the cast piece for a more permanent fix. (or I could get a swanky suede wrapped wheel from sparco or momo and be that much better off anyway other than the cash outlay.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomoHawk Posted May 15, 2003 Author Share Posted May 15, 2003 I think the way Grant made the hub is a good way. You are guaranteed that the 3 mounting bolts don't come out without forcing them. The helicoil wouldn't work after removal because there aren't any threads left to repair. You'd have to tap it out bigger and get some fancy shoulder bolts. I would like to know what kind of grease is used so I can put some more on later if needed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bluex_v1 Posted May 15, 2003 Share Posted May 15, 2003 Just my experience...I have the grant detachable wheel unit on my bronco..mine at least has some annoying slop where the unique 7-fingered peice mates with the hub. it might be possible to shim, but not easily from what I remember. Its probably less than a degree of actual movement, but it bugs the hell out of me. IMHO the snapoff unit looks like a much better design. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike kZ Posted May 15, 2003 Share Posted May 15, 2003 Just my experience...I have the grant detachable wheel unit on my bronco..mine at least has some annoying slop where the unique 7-fingered peice mates with the hub. it might be possible to shim, but not easily from what I remember. Its probably less than a degree of actual movement, but it bugs the hell out of me. IMHO the snapoff unit looks like a much better design. Under "Design Characteristic" they explain that slop you're talking about. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bluex_v1 Posted May 15, 2003 Share Posted May 15, 2003 my issue is noticable under normal driving conditions with powersteering...it is more of a metallic clunk feeling, not really consistent with rubber bushing play...but I will check it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim240z Posted January 7, 2004 Share Posted January 7, 2004 Giving this post a heartbeat again.......found this one and I think I may give it a bash: http://www.goingsuperfast.com/quickrelease.html Different 'levels' of hub I guess. The type 3 has caught my eye. It just looks easier to grab and pull back a collar than to mess with the pins in the other models I've seen..... Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomoHawk Posted January 7, 2004 Author Share Posted January 7, 2004 I think I can answer bluex's question-- The 'rattling' you might hear is from the three rivits that hold the finger thing to the hub. The might be loose or just a little worn, so it's a metal-to-metal; sound you hrear. I notice it from driving down a bumpy dirt road. I tried putting a smear of GOOP into the notches of the hub to tighten that up andit seems to help a little, but those rivits still rattle. Maybe you could force some silicone or something into the gap to tigjhten it up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JaysZ Posted November 15, 2004 Share Posted November 15, 2004 anyone know the difference/pros and cons between the ball bearing type and the splined type quick release hubs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JaysZ Posted November 18, 2004 Share Posted November 18, 2004 anyone? i'm inclined to think a splined hub is better than a ball bearing.. here is a link.. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7934097151&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT for the ball bearing http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7934096932&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT for the splined one.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomoHawk Posted February 1, 2005 Author Share Posted February 1, 2005 This is the one I got. It's been on since Nov. 2003. I like it, except that you have to turn the engine off and take the key out of the ignition to unlock the wheel, but I usually don't unlock the wheel while I'm driving! LOL http://www.grantproducts.com/grant.fm$retrieve?seqnum=125050&html=grantdetail thx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.