Guest Anonymous Posted June 5, 2003 Share Posted June 5, 2003 How do you know when to stop pressing the damper onto the crank? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted June 5, 2003 Share Posted June 5, 2003 When it stops Just kidding, kind of. It should go on until it runs up against the timing gear on the crank. If I remember, I usually measure the distance from the timing cover seal front surface to the crank timing gear face and see how much of the damper hub will go in to the seal/engine. Then you can know how far the back of the damper should be from the timing cover seal front face when it's all the way on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted June 5, 2003 Share Posted June 5, 2003 I thought all you had to do was put it on a bit and tighten the bolt to spec. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted June 5, 2003 Share Posted June 5, 2003 Never mind I was taling Nissan L engine, how did I end up here anyway? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David K Posted June 5, 2003 Share Posted June 5, 2003 On a Nissan L engine, just tighten it to spec, or until it becomes impossible to turn anymore without turning the crank lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silicone boy Posted June 5, 2003 Share Posted June 5, 2003 Something I learned from sad experience: when metal shavings start coming off of the bolt, and you notice less and less resistance, you've probably gone too far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest the_dj Posted June 5, 2003 Share Posted June 5, 2003 I worry about that thing. Next time I'm using a stud instead of the bolt I used last time to protect the threads. That's some serious force there. <--- newbie to engine building. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted June 5, 2003 Share Posted June 5, 2003 Well I've already installed the damper prior to my first post and it has already "bottomed out". Did I go to far so as to damage the Fluidampr or should I back it off a little? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted June 7, 2003 Share Posted June 7, 2003 It shouldn't hurt the fluid damper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted June 7, 2003 Share Posted June 7, 2003 Well should I back it off a little? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denny411 Posted June 8, 2003 Share Posted June 8, 2003 if you look in your overhaul manual, there should be a torque spec for the harmonic balancer. If you tighten it to proper specs there should be no reason to back it off. Overtightening the bolt will only cause problems if you tighten it so much that you strip the threads, or possibly stretch the bolt. If the bolt is strectched, I would strongly recommend changing it before it fatigues and snaps. Until you have some experience in engine building,I would suggest always looking in the book for proper torque specs. nearly every nut and bolt on an engine has a torque spec that should be followed. Rod and main bolts as well as head bolts and cam gear bolts MUST ALWAYS be tightend to proper torque as well as in the proper sequence. Some of the less critical components you can go by how tight it feels but only after you`ve had some wrenching experience. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted June 9, 2003 Share Posted June 9, 2003 Rod and main bolts as well as head bolts and cam gear bolts MUST ALWAYS be tightend to proper torque as well as in the proper sequence. Yes, at least that. I prefer to use a stretch gage for rod bolts that you can get to each end of the bolt on (like OE). The bolt preload is what you're after, and that's most accurately measured with a rod bolt stretch gage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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