Jump to content
HybridZ

Damper


Guest Anonymous

Recommended Posts

When it stops :)

 

Just kidding, kind of. It should go on until it runs up against the timing gear on the crank. If I remember, I usually measure the distance from

the timing cover seal front surface to the crank timing gear face and see how much of the damper hub will go in to the seal/engine. Then you can know how far the back of the damper should be from the timing cover seal front face when it's all the way on.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest the_dj

I worry about that thing. Next time I'm using a stud instead of the bolt I used last time to protect the threads. That's some serious force there.

 

<--- newbie to engine building. :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Anonymous

Well I've already installed the damper prior to my first post and it has already "bottomed out". Did I go to far so as to damage the Fluidampr or should I back it off a little?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

if you look in your overhaul manual, there should be a torque spec for the harmonic balancer. If you tighten it to proper specs there should be no reason to back it off.

Overtightening the bolt will only cause problems if you tighten it so much that you strip the threads, or possibly stretch the bolt. If the bolt is strectched, I would strongly recommend changing it before it fatigues and snaps.

 

Until you have some experience in engine building,I would suggest always looking in the book for proper torque specs. nearly every nut and bolt on an engine has a torque spec that should be followed.

 

Rod and main bolts as well as head bolts and cam gear bolts MUST ALWAYS be tightend to proper torque as well as in the proper sequence.

 

Some of the less critical components you can go by how tight it feels but only after you`ve had some wrenching experience.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Rod and main bolts as well as head bolts and cam gear bolts MUST ALWAYS be tightend to proper torque as well as in the proper sequence.

 

Yes, at least that. I prefer to use a stretch gage for rod bolts that you

can get to each end of the bolt on (like OE). The bolt preload is what you're after, and that's most accurately measured with a rod bolt stretch gage.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...