Jump to content
HybridZ

Viscous or Clutch?


240hoke

Recommended Posts

I have an 3.7 LSD from an 88 300zx. Anyway i started cleaning it up today and under all the grime i found an orange "viscous LSD" sticker. I already had all my parts together so i am kinda pissed. How can i bee sure its definitly a viscous LSD. In the below post someone mentioned that you could look clear through a clutch type LSD. I can on mine. If it helps i have posted pictures showing all marking on the diffy.

 

http://www.geocities.com/datsun260zt/LSD

 

-Austin

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I hate to break it to you but that looks like a viscous type to me. I am the guy who just bought the clutch type (under the other post) and the hole I have is much bigger (signifying that it is a clutch type). According to Dave

 

These pictures are of a R200LSD with clutches (What you want)

http://12.224.138.77:8884/files/datsun/Diff/lsdside3.jpg

http://12.224.138.77:8884/files/datsun/Diff/lsdside1.jpg

 

 

 

This is a Viscious R200LSD (notice the much smaller hole)

http://12.224.138.77:8884/files/datsun/Diff/viscousside.jpg

 

Sorry about the bad news, but you can still use the diff. There are a bunch of guys using them, and loving them. You'll just need to get a few more pieces to put it in the car. Just do a search and you'll find the info you'll need. Good luck. :-D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest 240hybrid

I could be wrong but from my knowledge you can still use the viscous LSD in your Z if you have the CVs to go with it. Their splines are unique to that specific diff. and cant be swapped with any others. All the other stuff should bolt right in with no problem. Oh yeah you'll need a modified rear crossmember that keeps the control arms together to fit the finned cover or a standard unfinned rear cover to make it work with the stock crossmember. Someone else will chime in if there are other reasons not to used a viscous.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was afraid of this. I dont have the splines CV's or anything. I was planning on useing the standard u-joint with 280z halfshafts. But thats out the window. I have already made the crossmember to allow for the finned cover. Whats a set of CV's and adaptors gonna run me? Do any of you guys have a set?

 

 

-Austin

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had a set modded last month with the help of James (240 Turbo) and they were lost in the mail for three weeks and I thought they were a gonner. I tried for two weeks to find a pair of the VLSD axels, and they are no where to be found, ( at least I couldn't find any) except brand new.

 

If thats the route you think you want to take, bend over.. :D they are around $500 apeice.... cough..

 

Mine did end up showing up, thank God... :D

 

I sent you a PM

Good luck

joel

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
Guest cowboy6280

what are the pros and cons on viscous vs clutch type? is this more a personal preference thing or is one generally better to have over the other? :? thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The real difference, as far as most guys are concerned, is ease of installment. The clutch type can use 280 shafts while the viscous is a little more challenging. It requires us of eagle premier (I think its the premier) shafts from a v6 car. There is a good article on it on 240Z Turbos sight. I think someone went over it on Hybrid Z, as well. As far as performance I think you would do well with either.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Most people's gripe with viscous units (in terms of operation) is that you have to get a wheel spinning before the differential will begin to transfer power to both wheels, whereas a clutch-type unit essentially starts out powering both wheels and lets one go when the difference in torque between the two wheels meets the clutch pack's preload value. At least that's how I understand it (viscous information coming from Miata and DSM AWD owners, clutch pack info coming from my memory of reading posts/websites on the matter)...correct if I'm wrong!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

that washer in the middle is what prevents you from using standard output chafts, I know lot of people will cringe when I say this but I am running a viscous unit in my 71, I cut about a 1/4 inch off of one of one of the output shafts, there are no c'clips holding my output shafts in place just the halfshafts, it launches great when dragging and gives nice throttle steer when autocrossing, cutting down a shaft might not be the best way but it works, and I only paid $100 for mone, hope you got a deal to make it worth the extra effort

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have not had any problems yet, the car is not a daily driver, it was in the Grassroots Motorsports $2003 challange and can even be seen in the latest issue of their mag, although it was slow and the carbs decided they were against me, the only leakage I get is from my leaking front diff seal when I leave the rear end up on jack stands for a while, the lsd works find and the shafts have such a limited range of motion they have yet to move out that I could tell, even if they did there is only so much room to move, it's been down the drag strip at Gainesville as well as an autocross held in their drivers training mini road course, as well as 4 local autocross events, like I said might not be the right way but it worked and it was cheap

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...