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240Z replacement weatherstrip experiences so far


Owen

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  • 1 month later...

Been a while since this post floated around so I went and did a search and found it.

 

I recently purchased a 76 280. The previous owner had bought a weather stripping kit from Vic British but had not installed it yet. The other day I replaced the driver's door weather stripping and like some of you have said in this post I now have to slam the door to close it! I have adjusted the locking latch mech on the door post but it still will not close unless you slam it. The worst thing is that the door can't be opened from the outside only the inside handle.

 

Did any of you ever figure this problem out? If so help.

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Georgia Flash,

I discovered that my door panels were too thick, I have the padded leathery ones and not the plastic ones. So, I took a hammer and pounded down the vertical area right near the door lock pin and a at the front of the door panel as well. So far, I don't have to slam it very hard anymore!

Owen

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After a little investigation on my part today I discovered that the rod that runs from the outside handle down to the locking mech was severely bent. I took the one from my other Z and put it into place.

 

The door still has to be slammed to be shut but not quite as hard as before and it is still a little hard to open from the outside but not nearly as hard as it was! I think that when the rubber gets used to the door being snug against it maybe it will flatten out a little.

 

BTW the driver's door on this particular Z had problems before I installed the new rubber. I am thinking that I may replace it with the door from the 75.

 

Another thing I discovered by taking apart the door was that it has been replaced over time. My car is blue and the door that is on the driver's side is that crab apple green underneath the interior trim.

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I've had the Precision kit on my Z for a year and a half now, and here's my take on things.

 

They included LOTS of rubber in their kit, even some pieces I'd never seen on a Z before. And there were no instructions to tell me which pieces went where. I had to install the pieces that I knew what they were, then see what was left over and figure out where they went. Some of them are shaped different than I expected.

 

The windshield leaks at the base. I'm not sure if it's the fault of the new weatherstrip, or the new glass, or if it was just poor installation. All I know is, my floors get wet when there's the slightest bit of rain.

 

I too had to slam my doors to get them to close. Then I had the bright idea to adjust my window frames and door latch. Voila - no more slamming, and my doors still fit flush with the body. Just loosen the bolts that hold the window frame in place, and move the whole assembly out about an eighth of an inch. See what that does for you.

 

I didn't get the rubber pieces that fit on the front of the doors (which I've heard they now include with their kit) and I still don't have the window welting that goes inside the frame. Judging by past experience, that will make a world of difference in the noise level inside the car.

 

The hardest pieces to install were the gaskets for the rear quarter windows. As was mentioned earlier, I had to press HARD on the windows and really work to get them into place. I don't think they'll be leaking anytime soon!

 

My final evaluation is that the Precision kit is well worth the money if you can't afford genuine Nissan stuff.

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My final evaluation is that it's worth it if you can't afford the real stuff and are sick of your old weatherstripping crumble away each time the car goes over a bump.

Once again, I don't have the Precision kit, or I have an old one which doesn't inlcude the front door pieces.

Owen

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  • 2 years later...

I had pretty much the same experience / problems with the width of the precision stuff. The A pillar and the bottom of the door are just too thick for my 73 240Z. I spoke to Precision directly, and they went and tried it out today on a test car. They came back with the same result - too thick in sections. They were actually quite helpful - and they are going to do a re-design within the next 1 or 2 months they said - at which time they will send me the updated product. For now I guess I'll just cut-off part of it so the door closes....

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When I built my car six years ago I bought a Precision weather-strip kit and was impressed with all the rubber that was included. I used most of it , however, I went nuts trying to get the door weather-strips to work without having to slam the doors. Adjusting and even shims did no good because they were too far off.

 

When I talked to them they said "We are going to do a re-design within the next 1 or 2 months and we will send you some new ones when they are ready." Sounds familiar! As one might guess, I never got them.

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That kinda sucks - hope that is not the case here. I was thinking about taking a razor to part that is too wide and cutting it so there is just one layer of rubber instead of two. Now that you mention it he was like "we've never heard of that problem before" suuuuure. Of course it is posted everywhere on every site that it is too thick....

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As long as this thread has been moved to the top of the heap, I might as well give my long-term perspective. After over three years, I still have to shut my doors firmly. It's sort of like how you have to shut the doors on a well-sealed VW Beetle. You can't just give them a hard push and have them seal, you need to keep pushing on the doors until they're fully shut. If I do that, I don't need to slam.

 

Sealing is still very good, and the weatherstrip is still pliable and soft. The kit gets two thumbs-up from me. When I bought the kit it didn't contain the molded pieces that go on the door underneath the A pillar. I cleaned and reused mine, but they're not in the best shape. Do they now include this piece with the kit?

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I guess this is as good a place as any to put this for future searchers - I pulled the side door (big sliding ones) weatherstrip off a 95 Chrysler minivan and used them on my 73. They fit GREAT! They have a channel that you just push onto the flange around the door and they stay tight. Start at the 90 degree corner by your head and work your way around, trim the end and you are done. I had the same experience as RPMS above with the Precision seals. Now, my door closes with a flick of the wrist!

 

Also got the hatch seal off a Z31 and it works well on my 73 although not as well as the Chrysler door seals. It's about 4 inches too short so I left that part at the top/center. Also will need to be glued in place but I don't mind for $20 for all three pieces.

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