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mitsu 4g63


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Guest Zed.Yakuza

This is from the RX7club fourms.

 

There are two different blocks for the 4G family engines. One is the Narrow block that most are familiar with, and there is a 'wide' block that little people have known about until recently. Enter the B2600. Mazda's B2600 had a Mitsubishi made 2.6l bottom end in the 87-88 trucks. This is the same as the Starion 2.6l, but the kicker is that they all share the same bellhousing housing bolt locations. So in essence any Mits motor with the wide block config will bolt to any B2600 trans. Now the B2600 is an R series trans, the same as the TII and the FD. Swap the B2600 bellhousing to the TII or FD trans and bolt to a wideblock 4G. This has all been recently discovered, there are a couple people in the process now of hammering out the fine details. The bonuses are a couple good things. Like a 240mm clutch setup as opposed to the narrow 225mm setup. The best to me is the fact it's built out of cheap parts and less custom fabrication.

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  • 6 months later...
The bellhousing is custom:

 

http://www.japaneseauto.com/mitstoyotatransadaptors.html

 

Greg

 

 

 

I've been scoping that for awhile. I've been talking to that guy, Bill Hincher, and am ordering his custom bellhousing that adapts the turbo Supra's R154 transmission to the 4G63. It'll cost around $400 shipped.

 

I've got my 6-bolt 4G63 and it's being dismantled for a relatively stock rebuild/overhaul. Hopefully, it will need rings and bearings at most. I'll probably lose the balance shaft, too.

 

The only things that I'm kinda worried about are the engine and tranny mounts and the driveshaft (because of the whole crazy yoke setup, but this is being sorted out as we speak... if not done already).

 

I forgot to add that I'm a little concerned about the motor fitting fully behind the stock cross member because, in this now RWD setup, the sump is at the front. My guess is that it'll slide right behind it. If not, I expect I'll be modifying the cross member. However, when I get the oil pan off, I plan to take a look at the oil pickup tube and see if I can't modify it and the pan to be in the rear of the engine instead. I know this is done on certain motorcycles, for stunters who spend a lot of time on the rear wheel, to prevent oil starvation. I admit that I know little about engine bottom ends and this whole idea I just spewed, but that's part of the reason I'm doing this swap in the first place - to learn.

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well i can personally say i have experience with the 4g63, the 4g64 and the srt motor. my buddy has a galant with a 46g4 the 2nd gen gst turbo manifold, turbo and full exhaust all hook up to that. his car is very tourqey spinning the wheels with all motor and a few upgrades he can spin through 2nd. so ya plenty of tourqe. his girlfriend just got a 1st gen gsx. this one is fun. stock pistons for the turbo engine run $79 at autozone. and since they are forged can handle good amounts of boost. the srt motors are very powerful. i have a buddy with a pt cruiser gt, yes the station wagon thing, and hes in low 14s with a few mods. then i have a friend named j.d. with a srt-4 built really well holding 26lbs (low boost) and he runs in the mid 11's spinning slicks, so ya all of these motors are really good and powerful. my thoughts were pointed toward the 3000gt vr4 engines. they make roughly 300 hp from the factory, and with a few minor upgrades can be really nasty

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I personally think this is a perfect match motor for us DIY types here at HZ. Parts are super cheap, easy to come by, and the transmission issues have been solved if you're willing to hunt around and get your hands greasy.

 

My plan is to someday put one in a first gen celica with a cosworth head setup. Should be nasty to say the least.

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