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Gollum

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Everything posted by Gollum

  1. Gollum

    Gollum's DD L28ET 75'

    Definitely more foraging than forging. I'm not regretting having megasquirt, but I'd definitely make a different choice the second time around. That said, today was a pretty product low key garage day. I now have my flex fuel sensor installed though my wiring isn't final (just wanted to make sure it works). Also got my new IAT bung welded on. Tomorrow I think I'm going to make a run to the parts store so I can sort out my vacuum lines a bit better, as well as maybe find some steel tube to allow me to add my new bypass valve. I also spent some time working on my accel enrichment curve and now it's much more responsive with throttle stabs. Not perfect, but I need my VE table to be more solid before I fuss much more. And in case you didn't see it elsewhere: I was thinking I'd just cut the whole thing out, but I don't want to grind around down there too much with the tank in place, but then I realized I can just drill out the spot welds. Might tackle that tomorrow. We'll see. I know eventually, possibly next winter, I'll be installing a fuel cell so anything I do now is just temporary until I have a final floor placement with a cell in place. A small side note: Though goof off is primarily acetone, it's definitely FAR better at removing dynamat TAR. By a lot. It's also only $2/gal more at my local Lowes.
  2. Ok, so people (drummingpariah namely) have been bugging me about getting a project thread going, so here it is. This car isn't exactly "road worthy" to many people's opinions, but that doesn't stop me. My rear tires are bald on the outside, the front tires are insanely bald due to a past camber issue. The car likes to hydroplane quite easily, but predictably. The car also likes to make lots of vibrational noise above 65mph, I think due to wheel bearing issues. So here's the car as it sits now: (I personally love the overflow tank, it looks like a loose tooth to me. It's getting moved soon) And here's the engine currently: I've been slowly working on removing unused wires lying around, making things a bit neater, grinding off brackets that aren't being used, etc. When I got the car it had the earlier N47 intake manifold and not the stock intake J pipe. Instead it had several pieces of pipe hacked together with multiple couplers... so I installed the turbo, intake, and pipe off of my spare L28ET engine. I'm going to change that valve cover soon... Notice anything missing in those pics though? Here it is: I was working on cleaning up the wiring one day, and I'd pulled the battery out in order to gain some room to work on it. While it was out I realized I had plenty of cable length to just put the battery in the passenger foot well... So I did it. It moved approx. 20lbs down by more than 12 inches, and inboard a good 6 inches. Win win win right? No worries, I'm going to move it to the back and get it sealed up sometime this summer, probably when I make my dash: That's some spare stainless my dad had lying around, so I stole it and brought it to my place. I'm not sure if it's enough, and if I've got the dough I'll just order some ali instead. Also in the near future I'm going to get around to installing my rust free doors: http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b346/Gollumandsmeagol/280Z-Helen/DSCI0699.jpg Which have now been painted the future color of my car - semigloss black w/clear. Should cost me about $75 in rattle can supplies. I might be driving around with some nice doors before I get the rest of the car painted at my current rate.... I really want to get my dash started soon though, because this wiring has been a nightmare, leading to patch work such as this: I just keep telling myself it's temporary. I also need to get all this damned dynomat crap off the car. I don't care about noise that much, and it's been a pita getting it off. It's leaving it's goo behind: So that's that for my first post. The car is my daily driver when the weather is good, and when I'm driving it (instead of the 280ZX) I tend to work on it a lot more, so this summer should bring lots of improvements. The car isn't forever going to be my daily driver. Eventually it's just going to be a fun car that I'll be building to take to HPDE events once I've got the money to pursue racing as a serious hobby, not just working on potential cars... This isn't a SCCA racer, an autox car, just a fun car. I don't want more than 250 wheel HP with this engine, and if I do ever want more I've been toying with the idea of the LSx engines since they do everything so stinkin' well. But first things first. I need tires BAD. Then I need to make the wiring safe. Then I need to dump some money into good struts, springs, and bushings everywhere. Then I can start talking about power.
  3. Gollum

    Z Car weights

    Looking back again there's less aero than my memory was serving me. He's running block plates along with radiator ducting with a tube frame radiator support. Not sure that's all that heavy. I thought it was running a full belly pan and more. I need to get my car weighed soon...
  4. Gollum

    Z Car weights

    IMO something else was going on with Mike's weight figures. There's other light 280z weights, even later years. I poured over Mike's build to find the weight when he first posted his results and the only conclusion I could come to without seeing the car myself is that not enough of the car was cut out in lieu of the cage and chassis stiffening installed. Mike also had a lot more work and weight put into aero than most which is definitely worth something that's often overlooked.
  5. Gollum

    Z Car weights

    Whoa, that's impressive. Gives me a goal to shoot for. What was your fuel tank level at? 👏
  6. Seems like threads should require moving to the FAQ by a mod though... But yeah, the post was curious. Seemed almost spam-like. "Dude, your answer is in your question".
  7. Well, here's an effort to guide/assist. What you want isn't impossible, and the compromises will only be found as you make progress. You don't really made a decision on a compromise before you start, so the key is to just start. You have a S30 you like. Does it have rust in the floor? Start there. Once you know floors are solid, adding an extra layer of underbody coating is easy as parts can all stay on. Removing interior to do inside with lizard skin and/or a mat can be done relatively easy in a weekend unless you want to remove the dash (not a bad idea, just not required for a first pass attempt imo). Tear down the doors to get those lined in something to deaden the sound (well placed dynamat works well here, just don't go crazy as 100% coverage usually just adds weight more than it reduces noise, you're just trying to kill resonance). This would also be a good time to add power windows if going that route. Also while you're looking at the doors, make sure you have door rubber in good condition, as this is a huge source of road noise. Also looking at seals, the hatch seal likely needs attention too. If you want to go a little crazy, the rear wheel well covers don't shield you much from the road noise. Adding some dynamat to the rear arches is good, but I'd also construct a secondary cover behind the rear panels that go between the wheels and tail lights, as that area picks up a lot of noise from under the car and transmits it into the cabin area. The interior panels alone do hardly anything to block that noise. While on the noise subject, don't forget that added padding/carpet thickness will also help greatly. Once these first pass noise items are done (which are also semi-affordable in the grand scheme) I'd focus on the more mechanical things you can do that don't require major downtime/parts removal. 90% of people seem to LOWER their car, and increase spring rates not just to prevent bottoming out, but reduce body roll and provide a more sporty feel. Ironically, race cars do the opposite. They run as light of a spring as they need for a given track condition, then drop the height until the scrape. They use as much travel as they can get, leaving nothing unused. To give you a more luxurious ride, off the shelf coilovers will be the opposite direction in many ways, as the dampers will have much more aggressive bound resistance. You likely want softer bound damping, with close to factory rebound, with mildly softer springs. As long as you don't add 400lbs over factory, and you don't lower it, that should be fine, but also give you a lot smoother ride. I'd also run factory size roll bars, not larger, and run them with as minimal preload as possible semi-loose with rubber bushings, not poly. And on that note. replace all your bushings, and use OEM rubber. Another item high on "feel" list imo is braking. Like steering, modern cars brake very differently. An oversized booster and master cylinder should go a long way to providing a softer pedal that acts more aggressively, not requiring as much take up travel as factory. Vented front disks wouldn't be a bad idea either, since you're already taking suspension apart. Also, in case it wasn't obvious, run a quiet tire. This means it won't be the highest performance tire, but a quiet tire goes a long way in improving road noise as well as generally softening some driving dynamics. For power steering, I'd go for the common electric assist setup. It's far simpler from an mechanical perspective as you don't need to find a powered rack and fabricate mounts for it, or find a pump and a way to put it on a given engine. And as for engines, you're not asking for too much at all. But first step, on the interim period, is putting a better muffler on your current setup. Get something that'll quiet your engine down to a whisper, then other noises will be easier to track down and reduce. But the first engine that comes to mind is the new 2.3 mustang ecoboost with the ten speed auto. It'd be a little trick to install as you'd most definitely need the factory ECU and solve the security requirements, but it's not impossible. But it'd be far quieter, make significantly more power, and have a transmissions that FEELS like a luxury car by comparison. Oh, and it should easily get you 30-35 highway mpg. Speaking of MPG... Better aero will actually help noise. Use headlight covers. Block off as much of the airflow AROUND the radiator as possible. Get a seal between the radiator and the support, add a seal on top of the radiator core support between the hood. Build a belly pan for the engine bay. Reducing this airflow into and through the engine bay will reduce wind noise that ends up getting heard through the firewall. At some point, you'll end up being able to hear wind noise around the mirrors. Get aerodynamic mirrors. Also, make a rear pan might be beneficial from an aero noise perspective as well. Sharp edges like the rear panel below the bumper will catch air and create noise. Same goes for the underside of the floorpan. While making a 5 piece belly pan might not have documented downforce figures, I'm quite sure you can end up reducing a fair bit of road noise, and it's not very expensive from a materials side, just a lot of time and energy. Also, once noise levels are low, I'd do testing with tape on items like the drip rails to see what else is making noise at high speed something as simple as the inlets on the cowl panel might be making a lot more noise than you realize, but don't hear in the car's current trim. At the end of the day, all of this comes down to "start with the obvious" and work your way around the problem. Don't assume you need to cut the body apart and put it on top of a E36 in order to achieve your goals. A S30 CAN be quiet at speed. It can also drive REALLY nice when done right. Also remember that these cars didn't rattle, slam, and pop from the factory. A lot of your current noise is just "restoration" work that needs to be done.
  8. Because I'm evil. https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/inventorylisting/viewDetailsFilterViewInventoryListing.action?sourceContext=carGurusHomePage_false_0&entitySelectingHelper.selectedEntity=d2209&entitySelectingHelper.selectedEntity2=&zip=95696#listing=224779223
  9. I've driven a 240z that was close to what you wanted. Power steering, ice cold AC. Power windows. Could hold a conversation at a near whisper on the highway. Main difference is that he was still running a L engine and the interior was mostly original (or original looking). Guy had 30k+ in the car and thousands of hours. Heavy as a pig for a 240z, and was probably a whopping 130 whp. But it sure was pretty and a nice "take the lady out" car. I can think of a lot of cars I'd rather have if spending that kind of money though, ignoring time completely.
  10. Gollum

    L28, need a bigger turbo, which one?

    A quick spool valve is when you have a divided entry or twin scroll (not necessarily the same thing btw) , turbine housing against a single exit manifold, and you put a butterfly valve between the turbo and manifold. Under no boost you close one side, so all exhaust gasses are directed to half of the divided entry to the turbine, which semi-fakes reducing the AR. Then at some set boost point you open the valve to open up the turbine fully. It's not ideal, but it's well documented to help in a measurable way. What the valve looks like: And an ideal improvement: Obviously RPM improvement will be better in higher gears since it's a time-based improvement, not directly engine flow coupled/based. And if you're trying to spin a turbo that's not making full boost until 6k rpm anyway, this isn't going to magically get you to minimum boost in half the RPM off the line. But what it WILL do, is dramatically improve initial boost response on a mild (less than 2 bar) when using a larger turbine AR when you're trying to get peak HP out of a turbo. This isn't of any real use when you're already on a smaller AR for a given turbo, or if you're running such huge amounts of boost you're in the borderline "should be running a compound to spool that sucker" territory. Some argue that a proper twin scroll manifold paired with the quality twin scroll turbine wouldn't see any net benefit from this. But I'd argue that niether the quick spool valve or twin scroll design are essential to winning races, and I've seen plenty of record setting pro cars use neither. In the drag world especially, there seems to be little focus on the turbo itself when looking at how to get the turbo spooled up and on the stall.
  11. Gollum

    L28, need a bigger turbo, which one?

    Well, turbos don't really care about any details of the engine they're attached to. You can generally compare A turbo to B turbo and even if your engine input is different, you can compare the differences between turbos. And now that I see you're looking at the SX line, specifically the S300SX3 the limitations become a bit more obvious. If you switched over to the SX-E BW turbos you'd likely be $200 or so high in price, but you'd have a lot more turbine housing options. That said, the S300SX3 should compare nicely to a GTX of similar size (likely a touch better transients actually). But it certainly won't be like the EFR series. That said, switching to a twin scroll or maybe even a divided housing might see some meaningful gains in spool as well. This is part of the challenge (fun?) of turbos. There's so many ways to improve the main drawbacks but they all take time/money/energy. I can see and understand why so many people just run "simplier" old school large turbos and feed it some nitrous. Works fine on a drag strip, just hard to maintain low bottle usage when on a circuit. Looking at the data log again, you're losing boost in the last 1k or so RPM before shifting. You would probably make more peak power going to a larger AR turbine housing. So it's hard to recommend an even larger compressor wheel WITHOUT going up in turbine AR. I'd consider at least a simple hack like a quick spool valve to try to improve that low end response when stepping up to something larger.
  12. Gollum

    L28, need a bigger turbo, which one?

    Well, if you're talking about the EFR line, and you can get one for $600, then that's a no-brainer. As far as what to get, it's easy to say get the most modern design you can, as they promise the world when it comes to spool and power-per-diameter. And there's some truth there. But let's break out an exaggerated example to help show why some people end up unimpressed by dumping all their money for the latest model. If a 65mm compressor is rated to flow 50lb/s with a peak efficiency of 70%, and the same company comes out with an updated version with a stronger billet wheel, and better aero and now makes a 55mm compressor that's rated to flow 50lb/s with a peak efficiency of 70%, which will spool better? Everyone will say that the smaller one will, because it's smaller and will have less inertia to get going. But the problem with that assumption, is that the compressors are rated to the same efficiency. If "all things were equal" and the smaller turbine flowed the same air, then the efficiency WOULD GO UP. At the end of the day, the smaller wheel as better aero, and thus packs more air per rotation (or the same amount per second as the larger one) which means it takes MORE effort to spin the smaller one per MM of diameter per second. Efficiency ratings on compressor maps take inertia into account, which is why on the compressor side of the turbo you should care a lot more about targeting a wheel that you'll not be way off the map with. Now, the turbine side is where all the secret sauce is. A lot of people will go on and on about the material density/weight of the EFR turbos and point to that as the silver bullet as to why they spool so fast. Maybe they're right, but I have a feeling that just like the compressor, blade design is likely just as important. Garrett seems to be all about the temp ratings on the marketing side of the house, and it does indicate a form of reliability which scared EFR's early years with several shattered turbines with a material known to be brittle... Those reports seem to have calmed, and plenty of people run them in competition to prove they're not made of glass. So you be the judge. Personally, instead of getting caught up in marketing hype, I try to find real world A/B tests comparing spool time and power. We're finally seeing some initial tests of the new Garrett G series which look promising. People are getting 400+whp out of the G-660, and I'd like to see the same power figures for the G-550 since the power rating seems slightly lofty for the compressor map max flow ratings, but time will tell. Sadly for you though, the G-660 is likely a touch small for where you're heading in power, but I'm betting it'd spool a TON faster. Also, if you can get a few different housings to play around with, it's worth seeing if you ACTUALLY gain anything up top from a larger turbine AR housing. If not, then run the smallest AR you can, and if needed vent charge air to prevent surge. Could likely have a turbo at full RPM off the line if done right. No, putting that power down? I'll leave that up to you. You seem to have a lot of this stuff figured out already. Speaking of, I'm impressed all around by what you've put together. And on that note, upgrading those injectors soon? Looks like you're touching 80% so more power will be rough on your duty.
  13. Gollum

    Gollum's DD L28ET 75'

    Welp, a large step forward has been made: And then of course it's rained all weekend, nonstop. But on the upside, my 20-30KPA 800-4500RPM cells are a lot more on the money than they used to be. And for those curious, my pre-adjusted startup AFRs on the Spartan were 13.3 and 16.6. So I guess my wiring is pretty solid! (for those unaware, the spartan wideband outputs calibration voltages so you can compensate for the common ground offsets, or even potential regulated 5v offsets in the wideband controller versus ECU). I also got some mics in for doing detonation frequency testing... Stay tuned (get it?)
  14. Gollum

    Mustang turbo 4 Engine

    Yeah, PATS can be disabled. Some engine wreckers even offer that as a service when you buy an engine from them. The ford performance kit I linked wouldn't have that issue.
  15. Gollum

    Mustang turbo 4 Engine

    My one concern with going standalone with these engines, and swapping in general is that they're direct injection. Not sure how difficult it would be to retrofit an existing fuel system for DI usage and try to tune with an alternate ECU. EDIT: And also, this is a thing: https://performanceparts.ford.com/part/M-6017-23T I don't think you'll get a DBW standalone + Harness + Throttle Pedal + misc parts that kid comes with for less money. You'd still be left needing the capability to tune it, but it's hard to ignore the plug in and go allure of something like that kit.
  16. Gollum

    Mustang turbo 4 Engine

    Yeah, aftermarket rods are certainly already a thing, hence why there's already 9 second ecoboost mustangs. And yes, we're fortunate. A quick glace at ONE national wrecker, there's 11 2015+ ecoboost mustangs with manuals up for auction: https://www.copart.com/vehicleFinderSearch/?displayStr=Ford,MUSTANG,[2015 TO 2020]&from=%2FvehicleFinder%2F&searchStr={"MISC":["%23MakeCode:FORD OR %23MakeDesc:Ford","%23LotModel:MUSTANG","%23VehicleTypeCode:VEHTYPE_V","%23LotYear:[2015 TO 2020]"],"sortByZip":false,"buyerEnteredZip":null}&searchCriteria={"query":["MUSTANG"],"filter":{"ENGN":["engine:\"2.3L 4\""],"MISC":["%23MakeCode:FORD OR %23MakeDesc:Ford","%23VehicleTypeCode:VEHTYPE_V","%23LotYear:[2015 TO 2020]"],"TMTP":["transmission_type:\"MANUAL\""]},"sort":["auction_date_type desc","auction_date_utc asc"],"watchListOnly":false,"searchName":"","freeFormSearch":false} Of course there's also the ebay sources of wreckers pulling engines and shipping them, but then you're likely going to need to source a harness+ECU and who knows what else is missing. Most of those are also currently sans transmission. Those seem to be selling around 2-3k which means a running engine + trans is certainly attainable under 5k, which isn't far off from what SR20's are going for these days...
  17. Gollum

    Gollum's DD L28ET 75'

    More lights: Unlike the headlights, these definitely FEEL their price. The angle of the first mounting area is also puts the mirror a bit low for my taste, and lower than I was hoping. Would have worked much better for my liking mounted closer to a flat surface. But I really don't want to go through the effort of mounting the up at the back of the fender, though that does put them at a better angle. I'll likely keep these as-is for now, and in the future either replace them, or making a new mount for them. I'm thinking a double-ball system as common for photography gear would work well. Would just need to make a custom ball for the mirror side with the correct thread. But, by that time I'd have as much $ into the mounting as the mirrors themselves. That said, I can't find a happy medium between "ultra cheap crap" mirrors and "extremely expensive I have no life other than my motorcycle" mirrors. That said, I DO like the length, as obnoxious as it feels at first. And I like having more "look at me, I exist in this tiny car next to you tanks" lights that are easily visible. Also, yesterday I got the second headlight installed: Now I need to answer the question I've had rolling around my head. "weld the O2 bung with exhaust on the car, or pull the exhaust off"... Hopefully the answer will be made manifest this weekend.
  18. Gollum

    Ms3x install

    Yeah, that's me and all my youtube glory. Hope it helps out. Keep us updated on the progress!
  19. Gollum

    Ms3x install

    Just for you, pal.
  20. Gollum

    Ms3x install

    No idea. I just went to the junkyard and looked around until I found one. It has the same three pin connector on the top as the L series ones, but another pig tail coming out of it's bottom. Resolution isn't a problem, as it's nearly infinitely variable. The smallest possible change causes a resistance change. If you're having resolution issues it sounds like it's stepping, which doesn't sound right at all.
  21. Gollum

    Ms3x install

    Sounds like a issue at the tps itself. I'm using a Nissan KA24 TPS on the L28ET throttle and it's extremely precise and responsive throughout the range.
  22. Gollum

    Gollum's DD L28ET 75'

    Engine running readings were enlightening. First off, the angel light runs at a whopping .15A, so roughly 2 watts. Might not seem like much, but it's also not running through any kind of lens so there's just mild diffusion and otherwise very forward facing beams. But under running condition, the halogen went up in amperage as I expected, while the LEDs went DOWN a fair amount. I expected them to stabilize, not drop so much. Anyhoo, here's the readings. LED Low Beam = 1.48A @ 13.6 Volts = 20 Watts Halogen Low Beam = 2.65A @ 13.6 Volts = 36 Watts LED High Beam = 3.05A @ 13.5 Volts = 41 Watts Halogen High Beam = 3.9A @ 13.5 Volts = 53 Watts So there ya go, low beams are HALF the power, but far FAR more useful. Under high beam operation the halogens aren't AS obviously behind, but the LEDs cast a lot further and wider, while using considerably less power. It's less enough power that I'd consider running a LED light bar tucked under the hood lip in parallel to the high beam wiring. And now for the pictures (because everyone loves photos). All photos were taken in manual mode and I attempted to get as close to what my eye saw as an actual output. I could have bumped these photos up/down to show detail otherwise lost, but my goal is to give some real world perspective. I want to start by showing just how bright the angel eyes are at night. Obviously their use case is daytime, so they'd better at least be decently bright. (note my LED Interior lights are on and they light up the cabin pretty good) Pretty close to what my eye saw Yeah, a good bit of light for a measly 2 watts That's just the halo/angel light. And that's about how blinding it feels when down on it's level. And there's the low beams. It's pretty sad the halogen hardly even looks like it's on. And that's what they look like when standing above the beam line. It was hard to get the expose right, but halogen didn't look quite that bright in person, as I could easily make out the detail of the glass texturing. And here's what the low beams look like down on the beam's level. I was able to get the exposure closer, and you can really feel the difference here. I got the exposure low enough that it's close to what I saw, and the LED is on fire compared to the halogen. High Beams. You can see now the halogen is registering a lot better, but it's still not competing with the LED in any reasonable fashion. High beams standing above the beam line. You can tell the halogen is casting a lot of diffused light in all directions with the LEDs a bit more focused. I didn't get a good in-beam picture of the high beams. So moving on. Here's what the low beams look like from the driver's seat in context of on the road. LED's cast well enough to get solid reflection from the stop sign ahead, with lots of local light being cast within the first 50'. I was surprised how well the halogen lights were showing in the high beam pics, because it wasn't so obvious to my naked eye. But here you can see the halogen is casting a lot of useful light finally, but the LED is keeping up just fine and casting a lot of it's bluer light (obvious on the neighbor's lawn), and still casting it's sharp edges on the left side, refusing to be bled out by the warm halogen glow (note the tone of green in the "slow children at play" sign, indicating the LEDs are reflecting off that more than the halogen). Now I just need to measure the aim so I'm not that a-hole blinding everyone... Never been a problem before, but I guess there's a first time for everything.
  23. Gollum

    Gollum's DD L28ET 75'

    Also, because my curiosity was nagging, I busted out the DMM. LED Low Beam = 1.77A @ 11.5 Volts = 20 Watts Halogen Low Beam = 2.5A @ 11.5 Volts = 28 Watts (or round up to 29W) LED High Beam = 3.9A @ 11.2 Volts = 43 Watts (or round up if you care) Halogen High Beam = 3.77A @ 11.2 Volts = 42 Watts Now, if I did these same tests with the engine running, and getting full alternator voltage, and let's just assume we're running HOT at 14volts, that puts max halogen wattage around 50 watts on high beams and around 35 watts on low beams. In my experience, halogens tend to be pretty linear in a certain range, and amps will go up with volts and lumens increase as well, to a certain point. In the automotive range of 9-14V, that tends to be the case. So if the amps eek up a touch, these halogens might max out around 37/55 watts. By contrast LEDs tend to provide most of their lumens well under max voltage, maybe somewhere halfway between forward voltage and max voltage. Seeing as these fire up just fine on a 9V (common PP3 alkaline) I'm betting I won't notice any difference between my just measured readings versus engine running. But... they WILL waste more energy in the form of heat. I wouldn't anticipate amperage going up much at all, but with the raise in voltage this does put high beam mode at 55watts and low beam at 25 watts. They'll most likely consume just as much, if not more energy in high beam mode, and I honestly didn't think high beam was THAT much brighter, but we'll see once I get these on the road. But what's amazing, is how much lower consumption the low beam mode is with SO MUCH MORE LIGHT. Words don't even begin to describe the difference. I'll try to get a picture before I convert the other side. It is refreshing to actually see the numbers though. I can see why these are rated at 60 Watts, and likely DO consume that at peak voltage. I'd be nice if the manufacture or reseller also shared specs on the low beam setting though. I'm also not so sad my headlight wiring is over-gauged, and these still pull plenty of power to warrant being careful. Also, I didn't get power draw on the halo, yet. I plan to, but I also anticipate it being super low, around the .5A or less range.
  24. Gollum

    Project Phoenix

    First I'm come across the build. Subscribed! Keep up the vids. I'm also eager to see more speeduino stuff documented, as I think it's a bit of the hay stack breaking the camel's back pushing MS into the Pro-only market. I'm running MS3x and if I hadn't of gotten a good deal on a full ECU+Intake+Fuel Rail+Injector setup I'd likely have gone another route.
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