BLKMGK Posted July 21, 2003 Share Posted July 21, 2003 Sick of not being able to drive my Z for fear of breaking something I've finally begun working on swapping the CV axles on I've got one side's strut pulled, the stub out, and will have bearings pressed on the new stubs tomorrow time allowing along wiht a new dust boot on that side. I'll then pull the other side and get it together too While I'm at it I'm going to try and setup the Wilwood E-brakes. I've only had those parts sitting for like a year! Which nut is it for the stub axles that does NOT require peening? Is it the ZXT nut? I need to get a set of them and when I tried last time I got the wrong ones Anything I should watch for while doing this? My stubs are drilled, studs pressed, adapters welded. One CV looks longer than the other, which side does it go on? Anything I can do to prep the CVs or just put them on? Boots look fine! Heh, on to the EFI! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j260z Posted July 21, 2003 Share Posted July 21, 2003 you want the zxt nuts. the longer axle goes on the passenger side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Posted July 21, 2003 Share Posted July 21, 2003 Outer axle flange nut for 24OZ-28OZ PN 43262-W12O2 (28OZX) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted July 21, 2003 Author Share Posted July 21, 2003 Thanks guys! Going to need those nuts quickly so I might have to squeal with MSA but I'll check the local Nissan dealer first. Glad I checked the length of the shafts before I tried to get them into the car I just hope that I have no issues with these shafts. Others had no problems with the U-joint shafts but I just kept breaking things. Really took the fun out of the car, hope to get that back now! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted July 22, 2003 Author Share Posted July 22, 2003 Hrm, local Nissan dealer sez "That's not a Nissan number, where did you get it?" And when he looked up nuts for an 83 ZX he came up with W1200 Also, the adapters I've got look to use the old ZXT bolts to bolt them onto the adapter where they used to bolt to the axle stub. Naturally I've not got the bolts <sigh>. Much as I hate ot do it I may hit MSA or Vic Brit rather than dicker with the local dealer and risk getting the wrong parts. On the plus side - apparently the bearings were recently redone on my car. The stubs tapped right out with a brass mallet no problem. I'm replacing the inner seals, the outer bearings, and leaving the rest alone. It's actually going much quicker than I thought it would. To reassemble - press outer bearing onto stub, place spacer in middle, bolt stub into strut? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j260z Posted July 22, 2003 Share Posted July 22, 2003 did you have any copper washers in with the spacers? i had one washer with each spacer on each assembly and i've heard that some guys have had two! either way i've been told to make sure it's put back together the same way they came apart regardless of the number of copper washers or lack thereof. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted July 22, 2003 Author Share Posted July 22, 2003 Copper spacers were UNDER the stub axle nuts not on either side of the spacers per the assembly manual and the Vic Brit catalog. I don't think I'm going to sweat the spacers - the stub axle and bearings are all being replaced and it looks like both sets of stubs used the 'B' spacer previously. It worked fine before, not sure I want to mess with it too much Anyone know the sizegrade of the ZXT bolts that go into the stub axle? Hopefully the adapter uses the same hardware - was one of Scottie's first run of adapters. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted July 24, 2003 Author Share Posted July 24, 2003 Doh! Hit another snag - the washer that goes between the bearing and the bolted down flange (brass in my case) doesn't fit over the larger 280 shaft. Bearings are pressed and packed at this point and I may reuse my old stub nuts with some Locktite. Have yet to pull the old shafts out of the diff or figure out where the gear oil was leaking from but I'm gettin' there! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted July 26, 2003 Author Share Posted July 26, 2003 Rear oil leak - for some reason the diff cover bolts were all LOOSE! I've tichtened them and hope to see no more expensive Mobil 1 Gear oil on the ground when I'm done. Old axles popped out now and CVs about to go in! Adapters appear to take 8mm metric bolts. Not sure I'm happy with th ehardware I found but we'll see how it goes. I may yet replace this hardware with ZXT bolts down the line once I know it all fits and doesn't break on the first test drive. Reusing the old stub nuts after cutting out the flattened spots on them. Red Locktite to assist in locking them down. Brass washers under outside flange were reamed to fit over the larger splined shaft. Top side washer under stub axle nut fit fine. Had some trouble with one stub axle - the sheet metal dust cover was slightly flattened on one part of one of them. Bent it out until it no longer interfered when the stub nut was tightened down. Should just fit over a groove in the strut hub.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted July 26, 2003 Author Share Posted July 26, 2003 One side CV done - passenger side. Hard as heck to compress the axle - had to lower the coil-over all the way down, compress the strut, and shove it all together. Still putting brakes and whatnot together. Anyone used the Wilwood e-brake setup? It has NO mount! You just have a C shaped bracket that it floats in apparently. Mike@fonebooth.com built this bracket for me a year ago and I'm just now looking at it. The silly pad keeps falling out of the e-brake caliper but I'm pretty sure I see how it all goes together. Hooking a cable to it will be another challenge but for now I'll be happy to get it all together and see if this rattles at all. On a plus note - the stub axcles Ross sold me a year ago have studs that are straight as an arrow. Disk slid right over them with no issues unlike the ones I'd done myself 2 years ago Mine were a bit of a hack job but it worked well at the time. slowly getting there - brackets painted and drying now, may bolt one side completely together tonight and perhaps start finishing the other side - it's bare with the strut on the floor at the moment... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scottie-GNZ Posted July 27, 2003 Share Posted July 27, 2003 Getting it ready for Reynolds? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted July 27, 2003 Author Share Posted July 27, 2003 Getting it ready for Reynolds? LOL! Getting it ready for local cruises and to drive to work to blow some minds. People already freak out at the dyno sheets on my cube wall for the Supra. Rolling in with the Z going Rumpty Rumpty will just be more fun. I think people can identify more easily with the Z too. 8) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted July 27, 2003 Author Share Posted July 27, 2003 All bolted up, back on the ground, rear maybe half full. I'm going to see if it leaks while I'm out of town - if not gas goes in and I fire it up for a cruise aoround the block 8) Need to get new isolaters on top of the rear struts - nuts too. As many times as I've pulled them they're a little worse for wear How should the arms in back look sitting on the ground? Any droop? Mine are dropped a little but the car hasn't rolled yet. I want to say they should be level, back is in the air just a little bit IMO. I'd like to have the angles right to keep the CVs in one piece Have pics of everything but may not have time to post them before leaving town Tuesday morning early. Still need to figure out the E-brake cables. The Wilwood stuff also doesn't have a return spring in them Had to shim one of the calipers sligtly but it all looks good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drax240z Posted July 27, 2003 Share Posted July 27, 2003 Don't judge your stance until the car has been around the block, it will settle quite a lot. Dude, you have to get driving this car. Show those people at work what an old school street car looks and sounds like. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted August 11, 2003 Author Share Posted August 11, 2003 Okay, she's driveable again! Took it out after replacing my ignition box (grr!) and it felt pretty good. I drove the car up to a friend's shop and back - I am NOT liking the Wilwood E-Brake calipers, they suck. They seem to be dragging when I stop so I'll be removing them and driving again to see if that's what was causing the horrible grinding sound Need to lower the rear about another inch too, it's too tall and the axles aren't straight however it squats a bit on accelleration so I'm not sure what to do. At least they didn't explode! I need to put some more gear oil in the rear before going too far but overall it wasn't too bad. Oh, need the submarine belt installed too - darned harness kept coming up over my belly All that said - car still feels a little scary. I think I need to have the engine looked over to make sure everything is a-okay or do it myself. The valvetrain may have a little noise in it or I'm just REAL paranoid. The car also seems to ride a touch rough, hard to explain. It CERTAINLY needs an alignment but to what specs? It used to feel like it was on rails before I did the swap and redid the ENTIRE suspension. I'm not sure what's bugging me other than worrying the rear suspension will die on me again but something just doesn't feel right. After I get an alignment I'll reevaluate I guess. Maybe have someone with a Z locally drive it back to back with theirs to compare maybe. <sigh> At least the steering is tight and the brakes pretty good! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted August 11, 2003 Share Posted August 11, 2003 Jim, I just saw this thread. E-brake. Mine makes a bunch of noise once I slow down after driving. Screech, etc. The pads are too freaking hard, I think. I've been thinking about getting some softer ones made. Diff cover bolts loose: That happens when you throw a bunch of torque through the diff! Locktite them in. The cover takes the reaction loads of the diff. Or be really cool and safety wire them . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted August 11, 2003 Author Share Posted August 11, 2003 Pete are you using the Wilwood E-brake calipers with Mike's mounts? If not can you point out a pic of the setup to me? Mine makes what sounds like a grinding nopise when I stop and I can feel a DRAG on the rear that will sort of POP and let go right at the end. I sure as heck HOPE it's just the Wilwood E-brake! Cannot think of anything else it could be unless it's the new CVs and I highly doubt that. If these CVs don't fix everything I've had torubles with in the rear then some sort of 'Vette rear is going in or a solid axle! Hadn't thought about the diff cover taking loads - duh! That makes perfect sense! Since I tightened it all up not a drop has come out 8) What are you using for alignment specs? The car just feels a little strange is all and after having broken so many U-joints out back I'm a little afraid to get down on it just yet but it used to float a bit before. I want to recheck all of the bolts back there at least and get comfortable with the car some. If you're ever out this way do PLEASE give me a holler, a second set of eyeballs on this might be nice. Need to replace one of the rubber doughnut looking things on top of one of the rear struts too - darned studs strip too easily. May just replace both to be safe, PITA! Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted August 11, 2003 Share Posted August 11, 2003 Jim, I'm using some brackets I designed and had made up. There are some pictures here: http://mywebpages.comcast.net/pparaska/brakemods.htm Alignment - well, it's all just a bit better than eyeballed. I used a homemade trammel bar for toe. I think I have 1/16" toe in at the wheel lip. Camber - leveled the floor with linoleum tiles under the tires, then used an angle finder against the rim - only good to 1/2 a degree. I'm at about 1 degree front, 1 degree rear (negative). Caster? No idea. I need to take care of that stuff SOMEDAY. I hardly ever get out to Manassas. I do get down to Mike's on ocassion, and Springfield. I'm in Crystal City every Monday AM and other times for work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.