tjcannon Posted July 21, 2003 Share Posted July 21, 2003 I just got my 350 cleaned and bored .030 over, and I'm ready to start putting it all together. I hear that a 383 Crank can be had for under $300, but I was wondering what else I need to make it work. I have to buy pistons since I went .030 over, but do I need anything more than KB Hypereutectics? Do I have to have forged? And what about rods? What other things do I need to worry about? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmyntti Posted July 21, 2003 Share Posted July 21, 2003 The rod length that you require will be determined by the piston that you buy. You can get a piston that would use your stock 5.7" rod I believe. You do not have to go to forged pistons that is a choice you will have to make depending on what you are going to use the engine for. You will need to get an externally balanced style dampner and flywheel for the 383 crank. It has been several years since I built a 383 though but I believe the info I have given is correct. There are more experienced 383 guys on this board and there have been some previous posts about the subject so I search may get you some good insight. Good Luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 73TPIZ Posted July 21, 2003 Share Posted July 21, 2003 Scat now makes an internally balanced stroker crank so you can reuse your 350 flywheel and balancer. I've seen "buy it now's" on ebay for 210 bucks (cast) from a reputable vendor which sounds like a good deal to me. Jegs has KB pistons for strokers for ~20+ bucks apiece. you can get the Scat cranks for either a 0ne or Two-piece seal blocks which eliminates the $50+ adapter you'd have to buy for the newer '86 up blocks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest heinera Posted July 21, 2003 Share Posted July 21, 2003 Scat 9000 series crank all the way. They are internally balanced, as stated above. Meaning you can use regular flywheel and balancer. If you follow the recommendations of David Vizard in his book, Max performance chevy small blocks on a budget. You can avoid a balance job on the rotating assembly by choosing the right weight of rods and pistons. Get the book, its great. Good luck Adam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted July 21, 2003 Share Posted July 21, 2003 btw guys , in this book they do a comparison between a 383 and a 377, built as nearly the same except for bore and stroke as possiable, the 383 makes more hp/tq untill about 5000rpm and even at 6500rpm the 383s slightly larger displacement and longer stroke keep it within 16hp of the 377 http://www.bookstrip.com/book_detail.php?isbn=1557884005&source=ink&keyword=1557884005 heres a combo I think youll like if your just starting to plan 383 (4.030 bore/3.75 stroke)11:1 cpr AFR 190cc port heads STEALTH RAM EFI (OR SUPER VIC AND 800cfm carb if you prefer carbs) crower #00471 cam milodon windage screen 7 qt oil pan 5.7" rods internally ballanced very similar combos have worked very well in three engines now, one (with webers made over 530 ft lbs of tq) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest zfan Posted July 21, 2003 Share Posted July 21, 2003 It's incredible the amount of torque the 383's are putting out. Can you stroke an LS1? If so is it worth it? Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted July 22, 2003 Share Posted July 22, 2003 yes you can stroke an LS1, they start at 382 all the way out to 400+ cubes. i think the real big LS1's all have the new big liners in thim but i dont know just how big a stock bore LS1 will go, with liners they go out to 432"s. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavyZ Posted July 22, 2003 Share Posted July 22, 2003 ...heres a combo I think youll like if your just starting to plan383 (4.030 bore/3.75 stroke)11:1 cpr AFR 190cc port heads... You think that 11:1 compression will work well on the street? Premium gas for sure, but 11:1?? I hope he has GOOD quench to keep from detonating. Grumpy, do you think that 10:1 might be a bit better for a street car? I would think 11:1 compression would be better suited to a more track car. Davy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted July 22, 2003 Share Posted July 22, 2003 yes 10:1 will be LESS likely to detonate,YES 10:1 is a better choice if your not willing to run 93 octane gas and possiably a bit of octane booster (LIKE I DO!) but keep in mind that the ENGINE ONLY SEES DYNAMIC COMPRESSION NOT STATIC COMPRESSION the piston compresses nothing on its way up on the compression stroke UNTILL BOTH VALVES ARE CLOSED, so the cam you pick is the determining factor in the true working compression, with the correct cam and gearing you can easily run 11:1 compression on 93 octane pump gas the cam listed above works with aluminum heads, if your running the correct ignition advance and fuel/air mix, you will of course need to figure the dynamic compression ratio OF YOUR PERSONAL ENGINE COMBO BEFORE ORDERING/ASSEMBLING THE PARTS, (youll want to stay under about 8.3:1 dynamic with aluminum heads and about 7.9:1 with iron heads)for 93 octane pump gas but a little carefull tuneing and octane booster will allow some leeway BTW retarding the cam several degrees not only delays the valve closeing and lowers DYNAMIC COMPRESSION, it tends to move the whole tq curve slightly higher in the rpm range, (good to know if your running right on the edge of detonation with the cam installed on the factory index marks) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest billy383Z Posted July 27, 2003 Share Posted July 27, 2003 I built my 383 specifically with the idea of "daily driver" in mind...KB hypereutectics (dish), 5.7" rods, World Products S/R Torker 305 iron heads w/58 cc chambers, 171 cc intake ports, 9.6 static compression, Erson hydraulic cam .473" lift, 218º/228º @.050 (cam designed for RV's and 4x4's), Weiand Stealth dual plane manifold and Holley 650 vac. secondary carb, mildly modified HEI. Runs just fine on 87 octane cat pee from the Circle K around the corner (no octane booster!). Pulls really hard from idle thru 5800 rpm, no detonation, no overheating even in 95º heat here in south Louisiana. Been a daily driver for 6 years now with nothing more than normal routine maintenance you would do to any other passenger car. Perfectly reliable all the time. Desktop Dyno says approx. 402 lb/ft torque and 340 hp. I think those numbers are pretty close... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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