Half-shaft Universals

[Phantom]

I'm initiating the preparations for an LS-1 installation in my '77 280Z. I'm going to start from the rear and work my way forward. I'm currently planning on installing an '88 or '89 3.7:1 LSD R-200 to mate up to a T-56. I'm confident it will handle the stock LS-1 HP. My concern, however, is the half-shaft universals. Recommendations? I've heard a lot about Spicer? Sources for recommended universals? Rough cost? Any help will be greatly appreciated!

Phantom

[fastzcars]

Hi Phantom. If you don't have the R200 yet get the whole rear end w/CV joints from a 87 /88 280zx turbo or some 280zx 2x2 had CV's .Some other member's are modifing R230's try the search function in the driveline section, you'll find a ton of other options.But the r200 w/CV's are basicly a bolt-in.

[jeromio]

CV half shafts from an 87 or 88 300ZX will not work - Too long.

 

The 280ZX turbo CV half shafts will work with either a RossC adapter flange or the ZXturbo's flange. I have the latter setup on my car.

 

240ZTwinTurbo (James Thaggard) has info on building shafts from 88 300ZX turbo Limitied edition CVs and AMC Eagle CVs and shafts for use with the VLSD also. Those Eagle shafts can be hard to come by though.

 

For the plain shafts with U joints, ask the part counter guy for joints without the grease fitting. These are solid (as opposed to hollow) and therefore stronger.

[utvolman99]

From what I understand the guys having problems with the U-joints are running a lot more HP than you are planning. There are a lot of guys running 450HP and never changing U-joints. Most of the breaks a read about are high 400+ HP set ups running slicks. If you are putting in new Us most say the ones with no grease fittings are stronger. Look for ones called Brute Force

[blueovalz]

I've communicated with a couple of folks sucessfully running the U-joints with some descent power. I think the key to keeping U-joints under the car is perfect alignment of the shafts. This takes into consideration ride height, spring rates, strut dampening, swaybar size, tire width and compound, engine torque rating, etc. One thing that helped me on a lowered street Z was that I raised the differential up 1" to straighten out the shafts again. Things to think about are what do the shafts do under squat on takeoff (weak springs and shocks exasterbate the problem). In a sweeping turn under power, the car squats and is rolling a bit, which complicates the scenario even more. If most of your torque is applied in a straight line, you will be able to find a good height for the car/differential that will let the U-joint live a faily long and happy life.

[Phantom]

Thanks for the feedback guys. I feel much better now about the rear end in this car. I'm currently running a 3.90:1 non LSD out of an '83ZX which is too low for the V8 and doesn't have the much needed LSD function. I replaced my suspension about 4 years ago with the Nissan European spec springs (1/4" shorter but 15-17% stiffer than the US OEM versions) and KYB struts all around. Guess my original springs were really "sprungs" because the car height raised about 1" with the "shorter" springs. I also put in new bump stops and a new differential mount (rubber not solid). I think that part of the car is pretty solid at this point. Luckily for me I've got one of the premier Z salvage yards, All Z Car Specialists, about 3 miles from my house. The owner, Jerry, and I have known each other over 15 years so parts are relatively easy to come by. I'll check with him about the 280ZX turbo LSD/CV joints and see what he can do for me.

Thanks again to all for the feedback.

Phantom