DatsunBoy77 Posted September 14, 2003 Share Posted September 14, 2003 ok, so i go out with my trusty multimeter to test my distributor. Nothing, i figure it has to be bad. So them i test the connector from the - on coil to dizzy and find no power. So i bypass the condensor and power. Hook back up condensor, no power. There is my problem. I know i have some spare ones laying around. Once i find them i will try to start the car. Will starting it bypassing the condensor hurt anything if for only a moment to see if it gets spark? I really dont want to and am wanting to see if that is what the problem is. Well at least i have been cleaning all my grounds. Ryan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DatsunBoy77 Posted September 14, 2003 Author Share Posted September 14, 2003 Shoot, i only have the condensors with the 1 wire, not the one i need with 1 wire at each end. Now at the parts store i work at we have lots of different condensors, does it matter as long it is for a 12 volt vehicle? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DatsunBoy77 Posted September 15, 2003 Author Share Posted September 15, 2003 ok, i guess that condensor must be very important. With the wire hooked up to the dist. and with ondensor in place, i get 12v at the coil. Withought the condensor i dont. But if i disconnect it at the distributor and dont hook up the condensor i got 12v at the coil. Does this make sense to anyone or am i crazy. Hopefully one of you lovely electrical engineers can make this make sense to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DatsunBoy77 Posted September 15, 2003 Author Share Posted September 15, 2003 tippity top top Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DatsunBoy77 Posted September 15, 2003 Author Share Posted September 15, 2003 oh yeah, it is a ballast resistor, not a condensor. My bad. I cant get a new one at the auto store. Anyone have a spare? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DatsunBoy77 Posted September 17, 2003 Author Share Posted September 17, 2003 anyone have any clues. I get no power out of resistor, but bypass it and i only get 9v's. I am confused. help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest oldZguy Posted September 18, 2003 Share Posted September 18, 2003 Ok, Well you've got me confused!!! Let's start fresh. You need the condenser to get a spark, no condenser no spark, shorted condenser no spark. Ok that is cleared up If the condenser is shorted and the points are open you will not have 12V at the coil, if the points are closed you won't have 12V at the coil. If you only have the ignition switch in the ON position you should have 12V to one side of the resistor and if the points are closed you should see something like 6V on the other side. In the on or run position only 6V is supplied to the coil, 12v is applied only in the start position (points open). If you have the key in the start position you should have 12V at the coil as this bypasses the resistor. I just went through this madness and had a shorted brand new condenser. Check this stuff and we'll go from there. Lance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DatsunBoy77 Posted September 18, 2003 Author Share Posted September 18, 2003 This is on my electric distributor, so i think it is actually a ballast resistor, i think, not a condensor. I know that think is shot as there si resistence from one end to the other. This is a very confusing problem. I am starting to think it is a grounding problem, but it is odd, how it ran fine one day but wouldnt start all the sudden. Cleaning up the distribuor helped, but still not enough power. it seems it loses power as soon as you connect the wire from the negative terminal of the coil to the distributor. Before yo connect it 12v, after 9v on + and like 3v or so at the - on the coil. Is that from the ballast resistor taken out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest oldZguy Posted September 18, 2003 Share Posted September 18, 2003 I think I would be better able to help if I knew what engine you are working on(L24, V8) , if it is the original distributor, and what type. It all makes a differance. Lance gone till tomorrow.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DatsunBoy77 Posted September 18, 2003 Author Share Posted September 18, 2003 Sorry, 83 turbo motor. I just need it to run for 1 day so i can get it off the road. Oh yeah, i dont know if this means anything, but if i test for resistence from the CAS disk to the end of the plug off the distributor, i get no resistence to one of the plugs, a little over 5.10 in one and then total resistance between the other two. The one plug reading over 5, is that normal? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SleeperZ Posted September 18, 2003 Share Posted September 18, 2003 '83 turbo has no ballast resistor, as far as I know. The "condensor" you speak of is just a capacitor, and is just for noise suppression; it should not affect whether you get power to your coil. It is not at all clear what you are testing and how you are doing it. You wil not be able to test the CAS inside the distributor with resistance measurements. You need to turn on the ignition (with the distributor harness connected) and check for voltage, and then check for voltage pulsing on the outputs as you turn the dizzy by hand. However, if the car runs at all, the CAS is working, so you need to check for power and signal to the coil, which is controlled by the ECU. If you can verify you have 12V to your coil, then you just need to check to see if your ECU is triggering it. Disconnect the signal wire to the "ignitor", and check to see if it is pulsing, either with a test light or a voltmeter. If it is, your coil or "ignitor" is bad. If not, your ECU may have a problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DatsunBoy77 Posted September 20, 2003 Author Share Posted September 20, 2003 i got a few minutes to work on it today and soon all weekend. I think i may have pinpointed it to maybe the distributor is grounding out or has some sort of short in it. If i take the distributor out of the car and hook up the wire from the coil i get 12v, as sson as i put it inot plae i get under 9v at the + on the coil. My gasket for the distributor had ripped off in one part as the distributor touches to the metal now. Would this cause it todrop power. not in the car power goes through it, and as soon as it touches the hole all power is lost. All this was tested without the cas hooked up to the wiring harness. i am gonna get some gasket material and make a gasket and see if it makes a difference. Man does this problem have me guessing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.