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timing an L28 advance?


THUNDERZ

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Every post and every book Ive read about max power and timing says something like 34-36 degrees. If you went 34 you'd be right in there.

 

Disconnect the vacuum advance and alter the breaker plate inside the dizzy so it can't move. The diaphragm is probably broken anyway so it is just a vacuum leak, and it only advances the timing under cruise or idle. Nice for mileage, but not nice for performance.

 

You can play around with spring weights to have the advance come in earlier if you want.

 

I think Dan actually lessened the total advance from the mechanical by JB Welding or brazing the advance slots so that they are shorter, and ran more static timing. Isn't that right Dan? Did you change the springs too? How did that all work out for you?

 

Jon

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Yes, best timing for my engine was ~34 degrees at full mechanical advance (+/-2 accuracy on my reading, at best). You may as well get rid of the vac. advance, as it's probably not doing anything with the 3x2s anyway. Mine is still on the dist, there's just not a vac line going to it. Vac advance is just for part-throttle cruise mpg, anyway. A stock 240Z distributor will give ~35 deg at rpm with only 10 deg. at idle. Like Jon said, I filled in the inside of the slots in the mech adv. to run more initial advance. Running about 15 at idle now, I think. Some like to run more like 20 at idle with triples. I didn't change the springs. I believe all my mechanical advance is in by maybe 3200.

 

Dan

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What distributor are you running Dan? The 280ZX EI dizzy has about 17 degrees mechanical advance. I've got mine running 18 degrees BTDC with stock springs and I JB Welded the breaker plate to keep it from moving, but did not close up the advance slots.

 

Check this site out: http://home.att.net/~jason510/dizzy_specs.htm

 

Degrees advance and rpm are distributor degrees, so double for crank degrees and rpms.

 

I know this is a cheesy half @$$ thing to do, but when I found this site I just set my initial advance and ass-umed that the page was correct. Perhaps I should double check my total advance...

 

Jon

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240Z distributor, with a Pertronix pickup. Definitely check your advance at elevated rpm. I drove around for quite a while, on and off the track, with ~18 idle/43 max total advance. WAY too much. Aim for 34-36 max total and you should be in the ballpark. I've checked out the jason510 site, that's what I sorta went by in modding my distributor. Pretty good reference.

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To check advance at higher rpm, you rev the engine while checking the timing, and either mark the pulley up to 35 degrees (mine is marked at 0, 5, 10, 15, and 20), use an adjustable timing light, or just approximate. It's really more important to know what it's doing at higher rpm, as that's where detonation is less likely to be noticed, and more likely to do damage. Also, higher rpm is more likely where you really want to optimize it anyway. Much better to be running at 10idle/35max than 18idle/43max. Better for longevity AND power production. Knowing what the advance is at idle but not at elevated rpm is better than not knowing the advance anywhere, but perhaps not by all that much!

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