Guest zbot43 Posted September 29, 2003 Share Posted September 29, 2003 I am now absolutely sold on the Taurus 2 speed fan. It really did solve all my overheat problems. I still can't believe it. I am wondering what everyone is doing to control these fans? I can't believe everyone is simply using a set of toggle switches. I've done a search and couldn't come up with anything except a thread on using toggle switches. Has anyone used the Hayden controllers with sucess? Has anyone done anything like a set of thermostat switches, low speed comes on at like 195, and hi speed at 215? Any great ideas??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted September 29, 2003 Share Posted September 29, 2003 I got a 240SX lower radiator hose and a fan switch for 210 degrees which runs my single speed electric. I don't see why you couldn't wire up another to come on at 195 like you suggest. You'd probably want to braze another bung (whoa baby!) into the same metal section of the lower hose. Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Juday Posted September 29, 2003 Share Posted September 29, 2003 I found a great controller. Here is a thread on it. http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=21495&highlight= Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
strotter Posted September 29, 2003 Share Posted September 29, 2003 I'm using a fairly complicated setup. I have a Hayden adjustable controller mounted in the hot corner of the radiator. It isn't perfect, though: at idle it's great, with all that hot coolant warming up all that trapped air, but it reacts to airflow by kicking on at higher coolant temperatures. This makes me paranoid. Also, it was fairly inexpensive, and that makes me paranoid, too. My donor car was a Firebird with air conditioning, and since I'm hoping to someday have A/C, I used the original relay from the bird, which is triggered both by the in-head sensor and by an A/C request (it grounds for both). I just wired the Hayden in parallel with the other grounds. The only problem left is that the in-head sensor is a 210 unit (the standard one for just about all GM products, so far as I can tell) and I'm hoping to find a 190 or 200 unit somewhere. This weekend I wired in a little LCD to indicate when the fan is on, though I haven't driven it yet (new cam being installed). I don't really think a plain old car toggle switch is a good way to run the fan - it pulls a *lot* of power, so should have a helluva big switch, and it's just human nature that someday you won't notice that little orange needle swinging farther and farther to the right... On a related note, with all this futzing around with motors and fans and relays and switches, maybe JTR was right when they suggested a pulley-driven fan with appropriate shroud. It would move more air than any electric, and simultaneously take care of the underhood temperatures problem by simple displacement... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest greimann Posted September 29, 2003 Share Posted September 29, 2003 Just so happens I made a wiring diargam of my modification (beore I sold the car ) . The fan turn on is controlled by the Hayden thermo swtich and the two speeds are manually controlled by an in car toggle switch and 5 pin Bosch relay. In cool weather I left the fan on low speed to help keep the duty cycle of the fan low and in hot flipped on the high speed circuit. The high current Bosch relays can be bought from http://www.waytekwire.com/ Diagram here: http://home.earthlink.net/~dvgreimann/largeimages/Zcar_Fan_wiring.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted September 29, 2003 Share Posted September 29, 2003 JFC! 50 amps to run that fan on high? That must just be a startup load, correct? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest greimann Posted September 29, 2003 Share Posted September 29, 2003 JFC! 50 amps to run that fan on high? That must just be a startup load, correct? I didn't know you middle initial was F. A high current relay is just good insurance. I have had a 30 amp fuse in the Hayden controller for a year and a half and never blew it. The 20 amp fuse did however blow. Another important point on high current draw accessories is to use at least 10 gauge wire, 8 is even better. Solder every crimp connector and make sure you have a good connection to the battery and your alternator is up to the task. A voltage drop caused by poor wiring increases the current draw, causing fuses and realys to blow, and wires to overheat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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