Back in the Saddle :D (Prop valve replacement)

[Guest Your Car is Slow]

Ok..so after a long hiatus...I have moved the Z into the garage and am now motivated to get the damn thing done!

 

First on my list....brakes!

 

The stock MC and prop valve are pretty much shot...while the top half of the MC is fine..the bottom where the lines go into each resivoir are rusted completely....and lets not even get started on the prop valive...it looks like one giant rust flake. However the lines themselves are in seemingly good shape.

 

I understand the Wilwood adj prop valve would be an adequate replacement for the stock prop valve...and I have a 280Z MC I plan on swapping out. I guess im looking for a photo or diagram of the best way to rerout/rerun.mount the new prop valve so it wont be in the way or near any large heat sources (I dont have the LT1 in the car yet..so its a guess at this point.

 

Also anything else id need to swap the stock prop valve...I had planned on getting the MM kit listed on their site.

 

Thanks In advance...good to be back working on it

 

B

[Guest Your Car is Slow]

Well drat....noones done this? or noones taken any pictures of it?

[Tim240z]

I am using a 15/16th master with the wilwood adj. valve plumbed into the rear brake line. Car isn't on the road, so I can't tell you how well it works, but I can't see any issues with it. I have the front brakes plumbed directly to the master, using a T-Block to split the lines to the left and right (same type of T-block as is used at the rear where the lines split to go the each side.)

Tim

[Miles]

I mounted a Wilwood pv in the tool box behind the passenger seat and plumbed it to the the lines that went to the stock pv also just behind the passenger tool box. I used braided SS brake lines and some metric to standard adapters I got from a local off-road vehicle shop. I can adjust the pv easily from the driver's seat and the pv is protected from getting knocked out of adjustment. Prior to installing the pv the rears would lock up. Then I added some KVR pads up front and the V8 Z now stops without rear lock up or fading. Someone here has pic on this pv set up.

 

 

Miles

[Guest Your Car is Slow]

I am using a 15/16th master with the wilwood adj. valve plumbed into the rear brake line. Car isn't on the road' date=' so I can't tell you how well it works, but I can't see any issues with it. I have the front brakes plumbed directly to the master, using a T-Block to split the lines to the left and right (same type of T-block as is used at the rear where the lines split to go the each side.)

Tim[/quote']

 

Thanks Tim! so to clarify..you removed the stock prop block...teed the front brake lines from the front MC....and just ran one line to the rears through the wilwood prop valve? If thats the case then the MM kit would be a bit unecessary IMO (or am I wrong).

 

What did you do with the brake switch?

[Tim240z]

Ditched the the switch. It's very clean now.

Tim

[Guest Your Car is Slow]

haa...damn we think alike

 

thanks!

 

BTW...where did you get the spare Tblock? Nissan dealer? MSA? Napa?

[Tim240z]

Why buy new!! Got from the JY (and they are pocket size ) ...actually from a ZX, but just about any car will do, as long as the line size is the same. The ZX one is just the easiest to get to because it's right on the driver's side fender well, so no crawling under the car.

Tim

[Guest Your Car is Slow]

Damn good point....Ill see what I can find.

 

Thanks again!